Hi, recently I installed CC in my Stilo, and as I had to dig for more information than I could find in the legendary post by Rich, I thought that I will update it a bit for others.
As my dad has equipment for cars, he helped me do it and because of this I will sometimes write "we" in this post.
In the original post, there are 3 categories of Stilos - fully predisposed, semi predisposed and non-predisposed. Mine was in-between: I have semi predisposed Stilo with the
D4B connector, but no cable under the steering wheel. It has two cables for oil sensor going to
D4B, but those sensor cables do not continue from
D4A:
> You should be able to see on the second photo the letters for rows and numbers for columns.
> Here I removed one of the pins as I wanted to clean and inspect the connector at my desk. I also needed to know how to add new ones.
> A
D4A connector for reference
A bit of new information that I was able to find:
1.
D4B connector is
Aptiv (Delphi) 24 way M Hybrid 1.5 2.8 SICMA Inline. Part number seems to be
211PC249S1033
2. If you get your hands on
D4B connector, you can buy the pins and make nice factory-like connections. Just look for SICMA male pins like on the photo below
3. It is possible to enable the CC LED (
Lighting the cruise control lamp)
4. The fuse for CC is
F02/F35 (4th out of 5 in the first row in the fusebox by the steering wheel). It's
7.5A.
Parts for Cruise Control
Required parts:
- Stalk - in my case whole module with other stalks (had both connectors on CC stalk, so in my case it was only a matter of soldering cables to the cut ends from the connector)
- cables (didn't have ones with stripes, so only solid colors)
- purple (ON/OFF)
- white (SPEED -) (ideally white/orange)
- green (RESUME)
- brown (SPEED +) (ideally white/red)
- blue (+V)
- a CAN cable and software to turn on CC in car's system and do PROXI alignment
Optional parts:
- steering wheel bottom cover (optional, just make a rectangle hole in yours if you prefer)
- SICMA pins (only male in my case)
- SICMA 24pin male connector (the problem with them is that they have different notches, and the ones I can find on AliExpress will probably not match, so if you can, buy male/female set and just replace the one in your car)
- a cable sleeve mesh
Tools:
- a crocheting rod or something similar to pass through the cables
- zip ties
- binding pliers
Preparing and passing the cables
We cut 2 or 3 meters of cables just to be sure it will be enough.
We used a rod sharpened like a flat screwdriver (to avoid damaging other cables), and cables with the sleeve were secured to it as tightly as possible with insulation tape.
The best place for me to pass cables was next to steering wheel shaft. You will see that a bulk of cables goes there, and it's also an easy access from under the hood.
From the engine side we drove the rod next to the cables, and it went through very nicely, it even went next to other cables and didn't damage the rubber seal.
After I pulled the rod from inside the car, I removed the tape and then I was able to pull those cables further and secure them with zip ties to the main cable bundle.
Then it was a matter of soldering those cables to the male connector I got with the stalk. We used heatshrink sleeves to secure solders.
We only didn't have a white cable with orange stripe, so we went with white only cable.
> hopefully you can see where CC cables are coming from (the black sleeve next to the colored bundle)
Preparing the H7 connector
The female brown SICMA connector
D4A had slightly different cable colors than
H7 connector, so here's a mapping:
| H7 CONNECTOR PINS | STALK CABLES | D4B CONNECTOR PINS | SICMA CABLES | TYPE OF SIGNAL |
|---|
| 1 | green | A2 | green | RESUME |
| 6 | white/brown | A3 | white/orange | REDUCE SPEED |
| 5 | brown | A4 | white/red | INCREASE SPEED |
| 4 | purple | A5 | purple | ON/OFF |
As for the blue cable, according to a diagram I found on Internet, it should go to
pin 17 to the brown connector
A that is on the right of the under-wheel fusebox,
but we chose a cable (also blue, marked by insulating tape on the photo) by pin 19 as I didn't find that information until after the installation. Should be going to the same fuse. Check that either way.
The fuse for CC is
F02/F35 (4th out of 5 in the first row), it's
7.5A.
After cables were soldered and organized, we strapped them with zip ties and connected the stalk.
Expanding D4A connector
Then it was the time to fix pins to the cables by the battery and putting together the connector. You need to remove the yellow part and green plastic pins first, and then the pins should click into place. After that snap the yellow part back on and that's it.
Forgive me, but I forgot to take photos of the ready D4A connector.
> this is an oil sensor cable, but I wanted to show how SICMA pins look like in
D4B connector.
PROXI alignment
Here's the guide I used for that:
Lighting the cruise control lamp (thank you,
Lightning!)
And after that when you start the engine, your CC should be now working
