Could use some advise with 1.3 multijet engine

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Could use some advise with 1.3 multijet engine

This seems to describe the symptoms you are having ...

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/emissions/diesel-particulate-filters/

And yes I agree with the last two comments I have driven diesels for years, cars and trucks .Glow plugs... as far as have ever seen are on one circuit with a relay and a timer so all on or all off ...so no timing of any kind ..unlike a spark plug ...they are only used for starting ..nothing to do with DPF regen ...I don't tend to red line anything I drive ...only my bikes when I was a youngster....
 
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The glow plugs aid cold starts nothing more. This time of year they probably don't even switch on.


By the sounds of your driving technique you may well have mechanically over revved the engine, forcing in a lower gear when already running at high revs can blow up the engine or at least cause valve and piston contact.

It's all so pointless because diesels accelerate faster when they are changed up well below max revs. You should try it some time.

I havent forced the car into lower gears at all, i am fast food delivery driver and i have been using multijet engines for 5 years and never ever had a problem, this foblo was bought with this problem so please dont accuse my driving style.
My last multijet ran 40k miles with me hammering it everwhere and it ran like a dream until i spun it out, that was a 10 plate with the same engine.
I do 50k miles a year in diesels all city driving mostly and i have mever burnt a clutch or had any problems with a car that i have been servicing.
But in regards too the glow plug ill take your words for it.

I have a feeling it may be the turbo.

It only happens during boost, so i can imagine its over heating thats why in getting the whistle and blue smoke on boost after it gets too hot.
Weren’t you supposed to have the glow plug issue sorted by now ?

Reading that is making me think you have something going on at the top end, something like a sticking valve.
These engines have hydraulic lifters and if your revving it hard to the red line it could be causing one to over pressure and keep a valve open.

Turn off the car, oil pressure drops, more than when the engine is running and the excess pressure in the lifter reduces and everything seems normal again, or you have a very slightly bent valve from a previous cam chain fail, when you start thrashing these engines which they really are not designed for, the valves get bouncing one could be getting stuck, not closing fully till the piston nudges it.

An open exhaust valve would mean raw diesel being mixed with exhaust gases and nasty noxious smells and smoke out of the exhaust.

There is far more going on here than just a glow plug, it’s 30’c today, there is no need for glow plugs at all in this weather. Disconnect the glow plugs and it will still start without significant effort. If it was minus 5 outside then yes I could agree with you that the glow plugs can be used at other times if the engine temp is low. Wouldn’t really apply if you have your foot mashed into the carpet at Max revs, it should be plenty warm in that situation.
Thanks for all the info you seem very educated on these engines and i do appreciate your input alot.
 
Reading back the glow plug should have been sorted a few days ago now, has this been done ? have you seen any difference?

Didnt bother considering everything said here, going too take it for someone too have a proper look over it on monday, and also put another starter motor on.
The starter motor on these is not easy too remove:/
 
Photos look pretty normal to me. All the turbo cars I have run have looked similar. I think there's oil getting past the turbo seals. It will look nice once clean, but not for long. If you are going belt and braces have the turbo off and get it checked by a specialist. It does look normal to me though.
 
Photos look pretty normal to me. All the turbo cars I have run have looked similar. I think there's oil getting past the turbo seals. It will look nice once clean, but not for long. If you are going belt and braces have the turbo off and get it checked by a specialist. It does look normal to me though.
Well from the old oil, and the blue smoke, i can only agree.
The old oil smells like diesel and is very thin and goes slightly seethrough on paper, so its dumping deisel in the oil, mabye thats why its over heating and then pulling the thin oil past the turbo seals
 
Suggestion made previously -


Diesel in the fuel = at least one leaking injector. A common rail with one poor injector causes low rail pressure so they all struggle to atomise the fuel aggravating the oil dilution.
 
I'm late to the party but having skimmed the thread so far I would suggest that you get someone with diagnostic software to check the DPF regeneration statistics.

Excessive regeneration attempts, especially when regeneration is interrupted or incomplete, will lead to excess amounts of diesel fuel injection. Worse still when the cycle is cut short unburned fuel is left to fester in the cylinder and drain into the sump.

Engine fan running constantly and diesel in the oil potentially point to excessive DPF regeneration issues.

Fiat ECUs for cars fitted with DPF filters log stats such as:

o Last regen
o Last regen temp
o Regen interval
o Regen time

etc. All depends on ECU fitted etc.
 
Btw the dpf has been deleted and gutted under fuether inspection.

Also too note it dosnt have the problem at idle and if left idle long enough after driving the fan turns off, takes a long time though.
The smoke in cabin is because of a broken flexy pipe.
The whistle is also the flexi pipe.
But the cause of the smoke is still a big problem, the engine gets extremely hot the engine bay hurts too touch after a short journey bug the temp gauge dosnt indicate overheating.
I got a theory that its the mechanical part in the egr sticking open and allowing carbon too get pulled through into the cylinder head under hesvy load causing the smoke smd the engine too over fuel due too wrong air ratio. It matches all the symptoms and reason why it only happens after car reaches temp and dosnt do it at idle.
I cant afford for someone too check the injectors, i have started disassembling thr egr now, just need too drain the coolant too remove pipes any best ideas for this? Can i crimp the pipe ckming from the raditor too the egr instead of draining all?
All sdvise helps thanks..
 
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Radiator inlet and outlet pipes don't go to the egr,
The egr bolts to the exhaust manifold,
The motor should be too hot to touch after a short trip and some other areas of the engine bay,
 
Radiator inlet and outlet pipes don't go to the egr,
The egr bolts to the exhaust manifold,
The motor should be too hot to touch after a short trip and some other areas of the engine bay,
I have a few diesel cars and they never get as hot as this mate, the front engine bay burns my hand too touch, i understand the engine being that hot but even my 1.9 tdi after trashing it for 3 hours dosnt get that hot, plus iv had a 1.3 multijet dosnt get that hot.

The egr is connected too exauhst manifold yes and the coolant system, because when i went too remove it, coolant came out, the pipes from the egr lead directly into the radiator mate, theres no discussion on that ill add a video if need be.
One goes into the inlet manifold with the metal pipe, the other 2 are running coolant and 1 of them is fed straight from the radiator into the egr.
Hopefully you can shine some light on the actual problem?
 
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Hmmm, this is interesting for sure,

I think I wanna track where my radiator pipes go on my 1.3 now, on the weekend it is then, definitely would like to see this for myself ay,

What diameter radiator hoses are going to the egr?

If you don't mind getting dirty, you could just take the lower radiator hose off and let the coolant drain out everywhere or into a tub
 
Ah I see now
 

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Turbo whistle is a sign of damage to the turbine blades. It needs a close look, because even slight rotor damage affects the balance and quickly takes out the bearings and seals.
 
If you where gutting and deleting the DPF, then it’s pretty standard practice to delete the egr as well.

The fact that it’s had this work done and seemingly things are behaving inappropriately and nothing makes sense it could be someone has completely bodged the ecu and the engine is doing things it shouldn’t be leading to the overheating problems you mention.

The egr being stuck open (if it were) is very easy to track on MES. and could be remedied by putting in an egr blanking plate. The only significant over heating problems I’ve ever seen related to the egr is when the coolant pipes break and the exhaust ends up mixing with the coolant and over pressurising the coolant system.

Have you bothered to sort out the glow plug issue yet ?
I love the concept of chasing unknown faults when obvious and easily fixable faults exist.
 
Having skim read this myself think it's the turbo. It could also be the diesel filter. Both air or fuel starvation will make an engine run hot. Fuel in the oil implies too little air. Sorry that someone has defeated the DPF, and the EGR is blamed for everything these days, neither should play up on a well used engine as you imply yours is. I doubt a DPF removal is anything other than a bodge, would never touch a car with that. Nor a diesel regularly red lined, there is no torque or power benefit in doing so.
 
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If you where gutting and deleting the DPF, then it’s pretty standard practice to delete the egr as well.

The fact that it’s had this work done and seemingly things are behaving inappropriately and nothing makes sense it could be someone has completely bodged the ecu and the engine is doing things it shouldn’t be leading to the overheating problems you mention.

The egr being stuck open (if it were) is very easy to track on MES. and could be remedied by putting in an egr blanking plate. The only significant over heating problems I’ve ever seen related to the egr is when the coolant pipes break and the exhaust ends up mixing with the coolant and over pressurising the coolant system.

Have you bothered to sort out the glow plug issue yet ?
I love the concept of chasing unknown faults when obvious and easily fixable faults exist.
I blanked the egr and it didnt smoke fan didnt come on and it didnt over heat( i say overheat it dosnt overheat on gauge just feels too hot).
Engine failure light did come on though which i assume normal untill the egr is deleted.
 
Diesels go slower when revved to the limit. There is no power benefit whatsoever.

Clarkson on Top Gear tried all day to take a Jaguar diesel car around the Nurburgring in under 10 minutes. He was continually bouncing it off the rev limit. Sabine Shmitt drove the same car and took 40 seconds off his time on the first run having never driven that type before. Of course, she knows The Ring, but she was clearly not bouncing the engine revs so high.

The OP's car sounds like its over heating. Has it been fitted with the correct radiator? Diesels usually have a larger rad than a similar size petrol. Also check the cooling system for air bubbles.
 
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