Hi all, can anyone tell me where I can source this connector? - it is the connector that goes into the immobilser unit under the steering wheel. I believe one or more of the wires at the connector end are broken, I want to cut the connector off and put new crimps on the end of the cables and replace the connector. The next question is what are the correct crimps to use - I have found some JST-XH female connectors but have no idea if these are the right crimps to connect to the immobilser unit. Or does anyone know where I can get this wiring harness from so I can cut the cable and splice the wires and connector in to my existing harness?. I had a look on ebay but can only find the immobilser units and aerial antennas. Thanks.
Technical Connector for 2004 Immobiliser
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Technical Connector for 2004 Immobiliser
Communicator
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Hi,
1. Why not use an extractor tool, to remove the individual inserts for examination, as it could result in less hassle?
2. For inserts you could try these.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Mal...0-3-0-5mmsq-/130873526001?hash=item1e78ab86f1
1. Why not use an extractor tool, to remove the individual inserts for examination, as it could result in less hassle?
2. For inserts you could try these.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Mal...0-3-0-5mmsq-/130873526001?hash=item1e78ab86f1
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Brian snail
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These immolbiliser plugs are quite common on fiat, Peugeot, Citroen vans I just went to local scrapers and found one from a Citroen and chopped it off with a 12 inch length of cable and soldered it in to my loom, all the wire colours were the same as original
Communicator
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Brian,
Did replacing the connector for the code receiver cure your problems? I so please add a post to the original thread, as an aid to others in a similar situation.
Did replacing the connector for the code receiver cure your problems? I so please add a post to the original thread, as an aid to others in a similar situation.
Hi guys thanks for the feedback.
@Communicator I did not have an extractor tool, but I had the next best thing " a needle
". I had already removed all the pins from the connector to test. I have ordered those inserts and they should be arriving today (just arrived ), so that is a job for this weekend.
@Brian Good idea, i'll keep this in mind.
I will give you some background information into the issue and troubleshooting steps I have performed :-
I have been having this starting problem for the last 2 years, e.g the key symbol on the dash coming on, the vehicle turning over but not starting. The problem was intermittent and a slight annoyance to start with, turning the ignition off and back on a few times normally "temporarily resolved the issue", but the problem had been progressively getting worse and worse up until the point that I was lucky to get the vehicle started with the key 1 in a hundred times (the throttle sequence with the keycode was the only way to get the engine to start every time). About a year ago I took the vehicle to the main stealer to diagnose and was charged £100 for the privilege and was given a quote for a new "code box and programming" for £500. I had already used ECU Multiscan in the past and this had shown "U1600 - Electronic Key".
Fast forward a year later and I decided to tackle this issue myself.
1. Changed the ignition transponder aerial (this did not seem to make any difference)
2. purchased a doner code box and had a local company reprogram this from the original
3. local company in point 2 also threw in two new key transponders
4. Purchased a doner ECU and had company in point 2 reprogram this from the original
Prior to points 2 and 4, I removed the connector from the code box loom and used a tone/probe tool to check the loom for breakages to the engine ECU loom and engine fuse box. I found that the tone probe tool would not work on the black and red cable from the code box! and the signal on the green wire was weaker. (Engine battery was disconneted).
I then discovered the reason I could not probe the black and red wire was because there was a voltage of 0.01V showing between these cables and ground. The vehicle was on EHU so I thought this may be a grounding issue, I disconnected the mains power and was then able to tone probe the black and red wires to the ECU/engine fuse box. I then removed the ground wire from the engine and gearbox, cleaned them up and refitted and while I was at it I replaced the 30Amp relays in the engine fuse box (after removing the fuse box, disconnecting all cables and checking for/cleaning any corrosion). I refitted the ECU and the vehicle still refused to start (It did however start once in about 30 attempts). This was the point where I purchased a doner ECU and code box and sent them off for programming. This now takes us to last weekend where I fitted the "new" ECU and "new" code box, with fingers crossed I attempted to start the vehicle and then swore a few times when it still failed to start!. I then decided to remove the dash from under the steering wheel so I could get better access to the code box wiring loom and proceeded to move the code box, connector, wiring loom around whilst attempting to start the vehicle, failed again!. I then decided to look out the original "faulty" transponder ignition aerial and refit this, tried to start the vehicle again and again the immobiliser light would not go out. I then moved the code box/wiring loom around and tried the ignition once more and bingo the vehicle started and it has now started everytime I have tried (dozens over the last week). Now I know my approach to this issue was not as methodical as it should have been , but bear in mind this immobiliser issue was present with the orignal transponder ignition aerial (that I am now back using) and messing with the code box loom in the past did not seem to improve the ability to start the vehicle.
In conclusion I believe the replacement transponder/ignition aerial was faulty (2nd hand part) and this just compounded the problem and that there is also a broken wire in the code box loom. Cleaning up the earth points and connections at the fuse box may have also helped to resolve this problem.
I could always try refitting the original ECU and code box to rule these out too, the good news is that I will be able to get the vehicle MOT'd in October now that there are no IML lights on! and on the bright side I have three key transponders in total (having previously only had one key and one transponder). BTW I also tested starting the vehicle when back on EHU and it is still starting fine.
NB. This was for a 2004 plate Fiat Ducato 2.8JTD
@Communicator I did not have an extractor tool, but I had the next best thing " a needle
". I had already removed all the pins from the connector to test. I have ordered those inserts and they should be arriving today (just arrived ), so that is a job for this weekend.@Brian Good idea, i'll keep this in mind.
I will give you some background information into the issue and troubleshooting steps I have performed :-
I have been having this starting problem for the last 2 years, e.g the key symbol on the dash coming on, the vehicle turning over but not starting. The problem was intermittent and a slight annoyance to start with, turning the ignition off and back on a few times normally "temporarily resolved the issue", but the problem had been progressively getting worse and worse up until the point that I was lucky to get the vehicle started with the key 1 in a hundred times (the throttle sequence with the keycode was the only way to get the engine to start every time). About a year ago I took the vehicle to the main stealer to diagnose and was charged £100 for the privilege and was given a quote for a new "code box and programming" for £500. I had already used ECU Multiscan in the past and this had shown "U1600 - Electronic Key".
Fast forward a year later and I decided to tackle this issue myself.
1. Changed the ignition transponder aerial (this did not seem to make any difference)
2. purchased a doner code box and had a local company reprogram this from the original
3. local company in point 2 also threw in two new key transponders
4. Purchased a doner ECU and had company in point 2 reprogram this from the original
Prior to points 2 and 4, I removed the connector from the code box loom and used a tone/probe tool to check the loom for breakages to the engine ECU loom and engine fuse box. I found that the tone probe tool would not work on the black and red cable from the code box! and the signal on the green wire was weaker. (Engine battery was disconneted).
I then discovered the reason I could not probe the black and red wire was because there was a voltage of 0.01V showing between these cables and ground. The vehicle was on EHU so I thought this may be a grounding issue, I disconnected the mains power and was then able to tone probe the black and red wires to the ECU/engine fuse box. I then removed the ground wire from the engine and gearbox, cleaned them up and refitted and while I was at it I replaced the 30Amp relays in the engine fuse box (after removing the fuse box, disconnecting all cables and checking for/cleaning any corrosion). I refitted the ECU and the vehicle still refused to start (It did however start once in about 30 attempts). This was the point where I purchased a doner ECU and code box and sent them off for programming. This now takes us to last weekend where I fitted the "new" ECU and "new" code box, with fingers crossed I attempted to start the vehicle and then swore a few times when it still failed to start!. I then decided to remove the dash from under the steering wheel so I could get better access to the code box wiring loom and proceeded to move the code box, connector, wiring loom around whilst attempting to start the vehicle, failed again!. I then decided to look out the original "faulty" transponder ignition aerial and refit this, tried to start the vehicle again and again the immobiliser light would not go out. I then moved the code box/wiring loom around and tried the ignition once more and bingo the vehicle started and it has now started everytime I have tried (dozens over the last week). Now I know my approach to this issue was not as methodical as it should have been , but bear in mind this immobiliser issue was present with the orignal transponder ignition aerial (that I am now back using) and messing with the code box loom in the past did not seem to improve the ability to start the vehicle.
In conclusion I believe the replacement transponder/ignition aerial was faulty (2nd hand part) and this just compounded the problem and that there is also a broken wire in the code box loom. Cleaning up the earth points and connections at the fuse box may have also helped to resolve this problem.
I could always try refitting the original ECU and code box to rule these out too, the good news is that I will be able to get the vehicle MOT'd in October now that there are no IML lights on! and on the bright side I have three key transponders in total (having previously only had one key and one transponder). BTW I also tested starting the vehicle when back on EHU and it is still starting fine.
NB. This was for a 2004 plate Fiat Ducato 2.8JTD
Last edited:
Brian snail
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That was exactly the reason I changed my plug and cable is was tucked folded over behind the steering wheel adjustment handle, it worked for a few weeks trouble free, but then started messing about again
I thought I've cured it many times! BUT fingers crossed for you
I thought I've cured it many times! BUT fingers crossed for you
Brian snail
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Hi Communicator, ok hope i dont jinks it not had a fault for 4 months, used it loads for shopping trips and three trips away?
Last thing done was to separate the sigma s30 alarm from the starter circuit, so now just have doors alarmed, also doing this tidied all wiring and stripped out the old redundant tracker and it's wiring
Despite being told this would not effect it?
Been here before only time will tell.........still driving about with steering column off just in case have to pull power! Thought about putting a switch in but dont want to touch anything whilst it's behaving
Thanks Brian
Last thing done was to separate the sigma s30 alarm from the starter circuit, so now just have doors alarmed, also doing this tidied all wiring and stripped out the old redundant tracker and it's wiring
Despite being told this would not effect it?
Been here before only time will tell.........still driving about with steering column off just in case have to pull power! Thought about putting a switch in but dont want to touch anything whilst it's behaving
Thanks Brian
Brian ,like you I am also pessimistic, I will cross that bridge when I come to it, but I will NOT be beaten! - I will keep you all posted, but rest assured if my actions so far have not resolved the issue 100% I will continue to pursue. I have a few ideas and contingency plans to that end. Hopefully this is over, if not "BRING IT ON"