Clutch
- Thread starter Jacqs
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Clutch
Need more detail.
But before you add anything, repost this in the 500 section.
Clutch 'went', is a bit vague.
If the clutch has failed, meaning it is slipping, or failing to drive the car, then a complete clutch replacement should fix it. That will include the release bearing. (not bearings)
Bearing's gone would probably mean the release bearing. But still needs the complete clutch.
Bearings gone, suggests something different, such as gearbox bearings, which is uncommon. Wheel bearings do not cause clutch failure.
The hydraulics are a weak point. The slave cylinder fails, so whilst the clutch will still drive the car, releasing it to select/change gear becomes difficult/impossible. Usually the master cylinder fails at the same time, or soon afterwards, so replacing both at once is the best option. Simple to do, can be expensive on parts costs.
Ask the garage to explain in a little more detail, and give a quote. Then we can see if the price and diagnosis looks reasonable. Insist on a good brand clutch, LUK or Valeo. Cheap ones are likely to bite back.
But before you add anything, repost this in the 500 section.
Clutch 'went', is a bit vague.
If the clutch has failed, meaning it is slipping, or failing to drive the car, then a complete clutch replacement should fix it. That will include the release bearing. (not bearings)
Bearing's gone would probably mean the release bearing. But still needs the complete clutch.
Bearings gone, suggests something different, such as gearbox bearings, which is uncommon. Wheel bearings do not cause clutch failure.
The hydraulics are a weak point. The slave cylinder fails, so whilst the clutch will still drive the car, releasing it to select/change gear becomes difficult/impossible. Usually the master cylinder fails at the same time, or soon afterwards, so replacing both at once is the best option. Simple to do, can be expensive on parts costs.
Ask the garage to explain in a little more detail, and give a quote. Then we can see if the price and diagnosis looks reasonable. Insist on a good brand clutch, LUK or Valeo. Cheap ones are likely to bite back.
Welcome to the forum.
Sounds like they are saying the release bearing is worn out - do you tend to hold the car on the clutch at traffic lights, on hills, etc? If you get into the habit of putting it in neutral with the handbrake on and foot off the clutch pedal until you need to move, you'll get more life out of it. Of course maybe you're already doing this.
As to the cost of replacing the clutch - it's not worth doing just the bearing because the gearbox has to be removed whether you're doing just the bearing or a whole clutch so I'd always do a complete clutch - Mostly they are sold as a 3 piece kit anyway. If it's a 1.2 4 cylinder I've seen people quoted around £350, which would be a good offer, to £450 or more depending on factors like whether it's just a wee garage or main agent, Location (expect to pay more in a major city than somewhere out in "the sticks") and quality of parts used - Valeo seems to be strongly recommended and I've got that make in both our Panda and my boy's Punto and am very pleased with them.
If it's got the twin air engine then it'll depend on whether your's has a dual mass flywheel. I don't know so much about the twin airs but believe they used both types depending on year and specs. If it's got a dual mass flywheel it's probably best to fit a new flywheel as it's likely to give trouble later on if you don't change it but it very considerably increases the cost. I'd guess doing one with a D/M flywheel is going to be at least twice the cost of the 1.2?
Whoever does the job needs to very carefully examine the gearbox input shaft for oil leaks and possible wear of it's bearing. If it shows even slight signs of leakage or roughness it needs to be repaired before going ahead with the clutch because if you don't it'll leak oil and ruin your nice new clutch! However don't get too depressed about this, our Panda with 60+ thousand miles and our boy's Punto with somewhat less miles were fine.
Sounds like they are saying the release bearing is worn out - do you tend to hold the car on the clutch at traffic lights, on hills, etc? If you get into the habit of putting it in neutral with the handbrake on and foot off the clutch pedal until you need to move, you'll get more life out of it. Of course maybe you're already doing this.
As to the cost of replacing the clutch - it's not worth doing just the bearing because the gearbox has to be removed whether you're doing just the bearing or a whole clutch so I'd always do a complete clutch - Mostly they are sold as a 3 piece kit anyway. If it's a 1.2 4 cylinder I've seen people quoted around £350, which would be a good offer, to £450 or more depending on factors like whether it's just a wee garage or main agent, Location (expect to pay more in a major city than somewhere out in "the sticks") and quality of parts used - Valeo seems to be strongly recommended and I've got that make in both our Panda and my boy's Punto and am very pleased with them.
If it's got the twin air engine then it'll depend on whether your's has a dual mass flywheel. I don't know so much about the twin airs but believe they used both types depending on year and specs. If it's got a dual mass flywheel it's probably best to fit a new flywheel as it's likely to give trouble later on if you don't change it but it very considerably increases the cost. I'd guess doing one with a D/M flywheel is going to be at least twice the cost of the 1.2?
Whoever does the job needs to very carefully examine the gearbox input shaft for oil leaks and possible wear of it's bearing. If it shows even slight signs of leakage or roughness it needs to be repaired before going ahead with the clutch because if you don't it'll leak oil and ruin your nice new clutch! However don't get too depressed about this, our Panda with 60+ thousand miles and our boy's Punto with somewhat less miles were fine.