Technical Clutch pedal sticky won’t come back up easily?

[MountainRunner]

Hi
I have a 2007 Panda multijet diesel with about 45000 on the clock. It has not been used for over 8 months.
Took it out for a 15 mile drive and clutch pedal was working fine. It was only until I got to the bottom of our street that the clutch pedal became quite sticky. I drove it up and down the street and on occasions it was quite sticky and squeaky some times working as normal some times sticking.



Any ideas what the problem could be?

Thanks.

 

[koalar]

spray the slave cylinder with oil is a Good start.

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/337...ng-definative-answer.html?337287=#post3355459


WD dries sticky so not the best but at least it would confirm.

 

[DaveMcT]

Most likely, the master cylinder is pulling in air. Bleed the system and see how it goes, but if the problem returns you will need a new master cylinder. There are no repairs parts to replace the seals. Mine did much the same with fluid bleeding lasting only a few days of normal use.

I replaced the slave cylinder and made zero difference but at £30 was worth the try. A new master solved it but not buying the full set caused me much hassle with the pipes.

If bleeding the fluid does not help I strongly suggest you get a new master and new slave to replace the lot. They come complete with pre-filled pipes and QD connector. The connector sits at back of the nearside front wheel arch. Mine had corroded solid, but more importantly the corrosion started a leak around the seals.

IMO, not changing the full set (master, slave, line) is false economy.

 

[buttonsandzips]

I had the same issue, needed new master.

Also have had this issue when the floor mat came loose so check that as well!

 

[Snowman2174]

Having same problem with my 100hp. Was barely used for 6 months and now pedal sticking down after car has warmed up. Bleeding and flushing system helped but not cured.

 

[portland_bill]

Bit of a 'moment' when the lights go green and the truck behind starts to move. Been there, done that.

The cylinder is plastic. As it wears, it becomes 'sticky'.
Don't waste time, replace the master cylinder.

Often Panda ones come complete with reservoir and tube, making it expensive. One for the 500, just a plain cylinder, is the same, and usually cheaper.
Dont get a used one.

 

[MountainRunner]

What’s the easiest way to access the Master and slave cylinders, I believe they are behind the engine? Is it best to remove air filter housing?

 

[portland_bill]

What’s the easiest way to access the Master and slave cylinders, I believe they are behind the engine? Is it best to remove air filter housing?

Master cylinder is on the bulkhead behind the engine. A bit fiddly for the fixings, but ok once air filter housing is removed. Inside the car, the plastic ball cup pops off the pedal fairly easily, and the new one pops on fine too. (Anyone with any experience of the original Mini will love this)

Slave cylinder sits on top of the gearbox. A good idea to replace both, but it is the master that is causing the squeak and sticking. Youo'll need access to the slave for bleeding afterwards anyway.
For this, the battery needs to be removed, and its tray. Not difficult, but a bit tedious as the ECU is attached to it, and cables in clips fight a little. Make sure you know where everything fixes, and just remove gently.

 

[DaveMcT]

Master with pipe costs about £80. Slave with pipe costs about £30. You will need to remove the battery and it's box to access the clutch slave.

A quick look at eBay suggests the same kit is sold for 500 and Panda. They all come with pipes (unless they are used parts which should be ignored. The bigger 500 and Punto have separate parts. I have no idea if these will fit the Panda or 500.

As I said earlier, not replacing the pipe looks perfectly sensible. BUT before you do this make sure the QD connector can be separated. If it does and it's not corroded, then you're good to go. However, stainless springs against the aluminium body + road salt = fast rot and eventual leaks). It's not hard to swap out the line and the new connectors just plug in. You do not need to bleed the new system.

The master cylinder is attached to the pedal with a pop-of ball joint - carefully lever it off, press it on. Everything else is M10 bolts.

 

[irc]

As Dave says, apart from the bit aboit Master- and Slave- cylinders come with pipes...
Most good brands used to, however quite a few seem to be changing over to just the bare cylinder. Worth phoning to confirm, as quite a few suppliers use a stock picture with pipe. Big pain if one has a new pipe and the other doesn't.
It may be because the cylinders are shared across a number of models, but the pipes are different. Maybe.
If replacing both I would definitely choose to use new pipes for both - simpler and less hassle.
And I'd definitely avoid used ones. For the price it just isn't worth the effort.

 

[DaveMcT]

The Fiat 500 1.2 and Panda have the same bodyshell and gearbox so the clutch pipes are the same.
I did the slave first. It's easy to disconnect for the pipe. It made zero difference to the pedal action and I now had to bleed the system. Just swap the lot and be done with it.