Technical Climate control and no air

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Technical Climate control and no air


New member
Oct 18, 2022
Hello folks. I've read a lot in the last few weeks and dealt with the automatic air conditioning. My big problem is that no more air from the fan motor comes up to the nozzles. The fan runs very slowly and has a permanent error when reading with multiecuscan. If I want to delete it, it comes right back. The whole thing is always changing. I have to drive two or three days without a fan and sometimes it comes on about a few minutes after starting. Error memory keeps showing me deactivated blower motor and quality sensor. Usually, the display below also starts with other settings. Only flap up and no air speed selected. What I often notice is that the servomotors turn past the stop or have totally lost their setting. You can almost always hear the flaps closing completely. My Fiat mechanic says that there is a flap at the bottom of the whole box for fresh air from outside and a flap for recirculating air. The whole dashboard has to go. I would like to avoid that because of the costs. My question to you is whether these flaps below really lead to the error that the blower motor is switched off by the ecu. I'm starting to suspect that the upper flaps are never really in the right position due to defective or broken motors. Can an incorrect position of the flaps lead to the error? What I have also noticed for a long time is that the air when it comes out is never as strong as with a properly functioning system. I hope someone knows the problem. I rule out the fan motor as a fault because it is blocked. Many thanks to this great community

Sorry for my Bad translator :D
Hi, Welcome to the forum.

Try the self learn / reset procedure below.

Where it says 'driver's side', it may be the passenger side for a LHD car as used in Germany.
Where it says 'left hand side' it may be the right hand side for a LHD car.


The AUTO and MONO buttons must be pressed simultaneously within 40 seconds of the ignition being turned to the ON position in order to active this procedure. A few seconds later a figure will appear on the display (in place of the driver's side set temperature) which will count down to indicate the time remaining before the start of the procedure. At the same time (i.e. whilst the count down is taking place) the previous self-learning status is signalled on the passenger temperature setting:

'1' flashes if the previous self-learning procedure failed
'0' indicates that the previous self-learning procedure was successful

This procedure is not carried out if either of the above mentioned buttons is released whilst the figure on the left hand side is not zero (this is designed to check the outcome of the previous self-learning procedure).

Exiting the procedure zeroes the 40 second counting period from when the ignition is switched ON, to allow the procedure to be repeated without having to switch the ignition OFF.
Hi davren, thank you for your answer. Unfortunately, I have done this again and again over a long period of time. The test ends with 0 and sometimes the engines continue to run. Can you tell me if it is normal that the flaps move until you hear noise from the stop? It sounds then that the motor is over the shaft at the end and a relay makes click. I will remove all engines in the next few weeks and see if plastic is broken. Is there a user here who sells working engines? Ebay only has replicas and Axel Augustin Shop takes 100 euros for an engine. Original Bosch is probably no longer on the market. Stelantis germany wants to get rid of all old cars... The worst thing for me is that nobody can tell me if the fan is blocked if the motors on the flaps are defective. The Changing the Lüter engine will not change anything. The ecu stops him. If it goes then it runs flawlessly
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