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Panda (Classic) Cheaper than a 360 conrod.

Introduction

I have kept this quiet for months, but after 3 trains and one bus.

I picked her up. Only a 3 hour drive back.


A 1995 Selecta with 82k on the clock. :D

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Shes a bit of a shed, and by bit I mean alot.
Then I'd say you've got a heater tap fault or an air lock.


When I bleed it, should it fire coolant out, or just drip, drip, drip? I didn't take the taps out fully, just turned them both a few times. Then the fan kicked in and the drips stopped.
The thing, which could be an airlock is the amount of water I put in, it was a hell of alot more than what came out.

This car was cheap, i'm not willing to throw money at it, unless it's my only option. Hence why I'm hoping it isn't the tap. :(
 
When I bleed it, should it fire coolant out, or just drip, drip, drip? I didn't take the taps out fully, just turned them both a few times. Then the fan kicked in and the drips stopped.
The thing, which could be an airlock is the amount of water I put in, it was a hell of alot more than what came out.

This car was cheap, i'm not willing to throw money at it, unless it's my only option. Hence why I'm hoping it isn't the tap. :(


You should have them undone enough to see the groove that's cut up the threads, then as you fill up you wil first get the hiss of air then water. It won't pour out, just dribble, then it's time to do them back up.
 
I did it with the engine running and you're supposed to have all the heater controls fully down?

:confused:

Well there you may have a problem. Yes the heater controls should be fully down because that means the tap is open and the water can flow through the heater matrix and clear any air, but if your tap has broken in the closed position you won't be able do that. You could take the tap off and test it. Keep the cable connected and just undo the two nuts that hold the tap to the heater and lift the tap away, you can then see inside to check if the disc moves when you operate the cable. If it is broken you should be able move the disc to the open position with a screwdriver then bolt it back on. Don't touch the cable any more in case it moves the disc a little.

Now you can bleed the system again and know that the heater is clear of air too, you should find that the heater is also hot, and there it will stay until you renew the tap. :p
 
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Mk 1 yaris?

Good luck! (though I in no way condone such chavvy behaviour) :p

Not on the street.

You might give the 998cc 16v VVT-i Toyota lump in the Yaris a good run for its money, but any of the other Yaris' and they'll leave you for dead :p

The Fiesta guy left early, the Yaris is driven by the girl at work who gives me the most **** about Pandas.

I slaughtered her, we were even and then the second she changed gear, I just carried on moving. :D

She said it's a 1.3?
 
You might give the 998cc 16v VVT-i Toyota lump in the Yaris a good run for its money, but any of the other Yaris' and they'll leave you for dead :p
Yeah my friend has a 998cc 16v Yaris, slowest thing on earth..... although he's not really into cars so maybe he just isn't using his gears appropriately because he was following me home once and I went up a hill and he just disappeared...
 
Yeah my friend has a 998cc 16v Yaris, slowest thing on earth..... although he's not really into cars so maybe he just isn't using his gears appropriately because he was following me home once and I went up a hill and he just disappeared...

Crap driver then. The Yaris is a nippy beast when driven correctly, misconception they're not as mainly OAPs and women who drive them. Need to keep the revs nice and high for the VVT to kick in. Mum's Yaris goes when kicked up the arse :devil:
 
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