Technical Car does not start
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Technical Car does not start
Bernievarian
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The meaning of the question was if he replaced BOTH cables or only ONE and in that case, WHICH one; for statistic purpose not to have a cursus about cars equipment terminology...
Usually that's the negative cable that dies, probably due to electrolytic reason (Robert ??)
Regards, Bernie
Usually that's the negative cable that dies, probably due to electrolytic reason (Robert ??)
Regards, Bernie
Perhaps you could be kind enough to dial down the aggression please Bernie.
I suggested changing both fat cables. "fat/thick wires/cables" because the OP didn't appear well versed in vehicle terminology.
The OP posted was going to have both fat wires changed.
Sensible choice because he or she is fed up of a non starting car and doesn't appear to be a mechanic.
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Bernievarian
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Hi Jack,
sorry if you felt me agressive, that was certainly not the intention ;-)
I wanted more precision from Him/Her because the positive terminal has more than one "Fat or Thick cable" on it, so I felt necessary to know which one He/She removed.
As simple as that, no offence meant...
Regards, Bernie
sorry if you felt me agressive, that was certainly not the intention ;-)
I wanted more precision from Him/Her because the positive terminal has more than one "Fat or Thick cable" on it, so I felt necessary to know which one He/She removed.
As simple as that, no offence meant...
Regards, Bernie
Hi Bernie,
Thank you.
My misunderstanding of capitalised words.
It would be good if a photo of battery and surrounding area turns up.
Possibly we are both thinking ,should problem return, the next check is the relay/fuse plate that may be directly connected to battery+ve and the fuses/relays.
Kind regards
Jack
Thank you.
My misunderstanding of capitalised words.
It would be good if a photo of battery and surrounding area turns up.
Possibly we are both thinking ,should problem return, the next check is the relay/fuse plate that may be directly connected to battery+ve and the fuses/relays.
Kind regards
Jack
Bernievarian
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Exactly what I was trying to sort Jack, WHICH cable was replaced...
The fat one from negative goes to the chassis and then to the gearbox, but on the positive terminal, one goes directly to the starter and another (a bit thinner) goes to the distribution (fuses & relays) box.
We definitively need to know which one was replaced, I'm afraid a picture of the battery and surrounding won't help much, unless it clearly shows a burned cable/connection, which I doubt...
Best regard, cheeers, Bernie
The fat one from negative goes to the chassis and then to the gearbox, but on the positive terminal, one goes directly to the starter and another (a bit thinner) goes to the distribution (fuses & relays) box.
We definitively need to know which one was replaced, I'm afraid a picture of the battery and surrounding won't help much, unless it clearly shows a burned cable/connection, which I doubt...
Best regard, cheeers, Bernie
Guys Guys....relax...all is well so far....Let's have a beer sometime.
Well, I told my mechanic to change both the fat /thick wires connected to the batteries.
But upon inspection the one from the positive terminal was fine. He changed the black wire which goes from the negative terminal to the chassis.
There was a slight burnt up smell & some cracks in the wire.
There is a part of me also thinking, just like you guys, what if the issue comes up again. But fingers crossed.
And to clear out another doubt in both your minds.
MR. Dave ...LOL
Well, I told my mechanic to change both the fat /thick wires connected to the batteries.
But upon inspection the one from the positive terminal was fine. He changed the black wire which goes from the negative terminal to the chassis.
There was a slight burnt up smell & some cracks in the wire.
There is a part of me also thinking, just like you guys, what if the issue comes up again. But fingers crossed.
And to clear out another doubt in both your minds.
MR. Dave ...LOL
Bernievarian
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What can I say more than Jack ?
The provided info confirm (kinda) that the positive lead is rarely getting bad (unless lose), the chassis earthing is the very weakest and sensitive point; just think about ALL the current (but the starter motor) returns to battery thru that only connection which is also exposed to water splash (hot/cold/corrosion...), and you'd get the idea of its hard life.
This is why the jump lead method is recommended for diagnosing such electrical fault. There are other (faster) methods but they need a bit of tooling and knowledge.
Anyway, you fixed it and this is the most important, you'll soon forget the money spent...
I like the beer idea, Dave, Jack and myself... we're just missing a partner around the table to play cards ;-)
Best regards, Bernie
The provided info confirm (kinda) that the positive lead is rarely getting bad (unless lose), the chassis earthing is the very weakest and sensitive point; just think about ALL the current (but the starter motor) returns to battery thru that only connection which is also exposed to water splash (hot/cold/corrosion...), and you'd get the idea of its hard life.
This is why the jump lead method is recommended for diagnosing such electrical fault. There are other (faster) methods but they need a bit of tooling and knowledge.
Anyway, you fixed it and this is the most important, you'll soon forget the money spent...
I like the beer idea, Dave, Jack and myself... we're just missing a partner around the table to play cards ;-)
Best regards, Bernie
