Bolt removal

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Bolt removal

jim mac

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I an trying to remove the bolt that pinches the lower suspension ball joint, is it threaded or push through ? I cant get it to move
 
What's the car? On both my own (Panda 2010) and my boy's Punto 2012 the bolt just pushes through. Threaded on the end so the nut can screw on. They are bad for corroding in place but so far I've always got them out with a good soaking of Plus Gas and a combination of twisting and punching. My recently acquired air hammer will probably make short work of the next one?

Here's a couple of pics of one I got recently for the Panda, from S4p, and then didn't use in the end:

P1080864.JPG

P1080866.JPG

Perhaps interesting to note the markings on the hex head - 10. instead of the more usual automotive 8.8? I take it that means it's more "highly tensile" than the normal high tensile 8.8 spec bolts?
 
What's the car? On both my own (Panda 2010) and my boy's Punto 2012 the bolt just pushes through. Threaded on the end so the nut can screw on. They are bad for corroding in place but so far I've always got them out with a good soaking of Plus Gas and a combination of twisting and punching. My recently acquired air hammer will probably make short work of the next one?

Here's a couple of pics of one I got recently for the Panda, from S4p, and then didn't use in the end:

View attachment 204070

View attachment 204071

Perhaps interesting to note the markings on the hex head - 10. instead of the more usual automotive 8.8? I take it that means it's more "highly tensile" than the normal high tensile 8.8 spec bolts?

Pretty much bigger numbers = higher yield and tensile strength
Also think they have differing steel make-ups
 
Trying everything but still cant move it, looks like I will need to pay a garage to do it
 
The lo I nut was rotten with rust and rounded off, I had to chisel it off. The head of the bolt on other side wont budge
 
The lo I nut was rotten with rust and rounded off, I had to chisel it off. The head of the bolt on other side wont budge

Ah.. ok

Right:
1. Sounds like the chiselling has swaged ( swelled..and twisted ) the threaded end of the bolt.
2. The bolts is too tight now to undo : let go


Best thing.( I presume it is an M6 bolt)

Get an electric drill.. drill a hole through the centre: core of the bolt (like a tunnel) this will turn the bolt into a 'tube' and give the damaged thread a bit of wriggle room.

Use an 8mm or similar to create a divet in the end of the bolt.. countersink style

Start with a dot punch if you have one..
Spraying with a release oil will be beneficial ;)



Then drill a hole @10 mm deep with a 3 or 4 mm drill.

IF.. your drilled hole looks really central ..

You can drill out to 5mm.. thats the tapping size of the M6 ;)

Heat.. as suggested earlier.. will not hurt

The action of drilling will have 2 effects:

1. Heating the bolt
2. Twisting in the correct direction

Once youve drilled the hole..give it another go on the bolts Hex.head

Good luck.. do let us know how it goes :)
 
Last edited:
As I mentioned in other posts today, I'm just picking up on threads I've missed due to being away on holiday (Danube cruise - Lovely!) so I'm a wee bit late here maybe? But I just wanted to warn.

Charlie's recommending you drill the bolt out, and if it's as badly corroded as you're describing this may well be your best option. It's going to be hard going on a "hard" high tensile 10.0 bolt like this though - Cobalt drill recommended? Charlie has already mentioned, earlier on in the thread, that the ball pin is "waisted" so that the bolt, in addition to being a pinch bolt also acts as a locking pin by sitting in the "waisted" part of the ball joint's pin. When you are drilling be especially careful not to allow the end of the drill to come into contact with the ball joint's pin (in other words be careful to drill concentric to the bolt) The ball joint pin is HARD. Allow the end of the drill to even "kiss" it and you're going to snap the drill bit in the bolt! Then you're really going to have a fun time!
 
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