Technical Blue's Plenum Chamber (so far) in pictures

[StoneNewt]

Funny thing is when my Sei was a 1.2 8v N/A the P75 manifold actually seems to produce better high-rpm performance on the rollers than the Sei manifold despite it's limitations.

little_yellow_beast, by ignoring the fact? Actually the P75 manifold does a half decet job at low pressures, it's as you push up the boost it's limitations come into the equation.

 

[arc]

Funny thing is when my Sei was a 1.2 8v N/A the P75 manifold actually seems to produce better high-rpm performance on the rollers than the Sei manifold despite it's limitations.

that'll be down to the length of the runners, they are much longer on the Sei manifold (they curl round and up) which gives better lower down power. It's not the p75 manifold doing something well - it's the Sei manifold doing it even worse.

 

[arseofbox]

that'll be down to the length of the runners, they are much longer on the Sei manifold (they curl round and up) which gives better lower down power. It's not the p75 manifold doing something well - it's the Sei manifold doing it even worse.

Its a function of runner length, runner area, resonant volume and airflow velocity from what I remember - If two similar (in terms of area + plenum volume) manifolds are compared on the same engine - its highly likely effects will be due to runner length and resonant volume.

 

[arc]

thats what i said.. but with less words eh!

 

[StoneNewt]

So the P75 is better than the Sei's for high rpm performance then :bang:

 

[fingers99]

A few more pics.

Mani back from Tom, I decided that the water pipe needed to be got out of the way (it'll impinge on the space where the TB and plenum backplate need to be) so out with the hacksaw:

This leaves the remains of the steel pipe in the mani, but I just slit it, pulled it out, made up a plug and welded it together again. DC TIG, so pretty messy:

Cleaned up a little with rasp and bastard file (final cleaning up with smoother file and rotary burr to follow (this project sometimes resembles sculpture more than engineering!):

What about the water, you ask? Well, the end of the stub will be tapped and drilled for a big fat banjo bolt, which will do the job.

Next, trial fitting of the fuel rail...............

 

[Brooky]

Will a banjo bolt let enough water through??

Can you not stick a right angled aeroquipe/goodridge fitting in??

And you REALLY need to get a AC tig sorted out

 

[fingers99]

Will a banjo bolt let enough water through??

Can you not stick a right angled aeroquipe/goodridge fitting in??

And you REALLY need to get a AC tig sorted out

Plenty! After all, it's only for the heater and the bigger banjos are 14mm, which is enough to feed a Holley for a bloody big V8.

AC TIG would be nice. Even pulsed DC would be cool. Got a spare 1200 quid you want to lend me? But I'm actually impressed by just how much you can do -- albeit rather crudely -- with a process which so many people just dismiss out of hand. I mean, it's ugly, but it's well on! I thought about hiring one for a week but the only stuff I can find locally so far is 3 phase.........

 

[Brooky]

I thought about hiring one for a week but the only stuff I can find locally so far is 3 phase.........

ahhhh the joys of living on a farm with a 3phase supply

 

[arc]

confused now.. you've suggest in the past that cooling on the no4 cylinder isn't so great and now you've gone and blocked off the waterway that runs next to it

granted it doesnt need to run through the TB etc, so a better solution would have been to just not connect it to there surely.

 

[fingers99]

confused now.. you've suggest in the past that cooling on the no4 cylinder isn't so great and now you've gone and blocked off the waterway that runs next to it

I've blocked it only to re-open it again. Issue is space and I can gain an inch and a half by using a banjo and bolt (plus easier alinement, etc.)

granted it doesnt need to run through the TB etc, so a better solution would have been to just not connect it to there surely.

Well, it doesn't run through the TB anyway -- TB on the MPI (and, for sure, the Rover TB I'm using) is dry. Not connecting it would mean that the pipe was still in the way and no heater.

All will become clear, I hope!

 

[arc]

ah ok, i thought it was blocked completley. It does run through the TB on the (normal) MPI though

 

[randomizered]

I'd have blocked it off entirely if it was me.

Could have fitted a panda 100hp, punto grande 1.4 etc thermostat. On these models, that's where they take the heater output from, not the back of the head. The heads are either blanked off with a seal, or the latest ones are cast without the hole at all. There must be a reason they've made that change. Could be cost of course.

However, I'd imagine not having the water do a right turn when still inside the head means the water flows faster through the block In one end out the other

Still, its done now Looking good

Kristian

 

[fingers99]

Mind you, might be worth looking at as a thermostat will cost me a lot less (probably) than a set of banjo kit, let alone the tap, drill, yada, yada....... and save more space (which may be why they did it).

I shall see what the factors have!

I'd guess I can still fit the low temp thermostat's innards............

 

[randomizered]

factors didn't have much when i asked, try fluffy, s4p or fiat. About £20 if i remember. Only costs so much due to the fact it has a temperature sensor fitted into it.

You can fit low temp innards just fine, that's what i did to mine

It also has a small take off that will need to be capped. I just chemical metal'd mine, but the correct sized screw would do the job

https://www.fiatforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33588&d=1192046624

Kristian