Technical At least I worked out why my flywheel was juddering...

[Ralf S.]

The only gearbox seal I can find is 71719542 but I'm not sure if that's it (although there aren't any other seals visible on ePer).

No joy on fleabay though... so I don't know where I would go to get one. I suspect the part number on ePer is old and it's now a number beginning in 4.. or 5.. which might turn up more search results, if we knew the number.


Ralf S.

 

[ruispeed3d]

Hi again, sorry for the late reply, was actually forgetting to check the thread for replies .

Thank you for helping me with the pressure plate torque settings, most likely that's the value to go for. I'll see when i get on with it if it feels right or not(most likely it will).

That ebay link came at a perfect timing since i still was unable to go to a fiat dealer in the hopes of finding a set of those, despite having that same fiat part number.

Reached out to that seller and they assured me it was indeed compatible for my car, so i'll order those definitely. ​

A couple of days later i actually managed to find that same part number for the gearbox seal in eper but that number simply doesn't show up on any online parts shop, even less on my local parts shop so i have to dig deeper for that one, if i indeed find one i will share that information here on the thread.

Last but not least, i cant thank you enough for your amazing insight and availability in helping me(and others) with this very valuable information.

Thank you and stay safe,

Rui Louro

 

[Ralf S.]

The Fiat part numbers beginning in 7... were re-organised some time ago.

A lot of them now start with 4.. or 5... typically. The ePer version on here is quite old (2008?) - they've moved it all online, which you need to pay a subscription to access, so only dealers can really afford it.

So, ePer only shows the old numbers, not the new numbers for the same part. Sometimes that still works, because sellers list the new part numbers and all the previous/compatible numbers too.

If you find the new number, post it on here so we can find it in the future..


Ralf S.

 

[Ralf S.]

The gearbox is being moody.

I managed to get it onto a jack and wheeled it under the car... then hoisted it into position so that the two studs on the bell-housing, the gearbox input shaft and the o/s driveshaft all lined up... and then push it into position.

But despite being in the correct position.. it won't go fully "home".

I tried jiggling it (bearing it mind it's 40kg) and rattling it, and doing the hokey-cokey.. and even a sun dance (since it started raining, just to increase my joy)... and it's crept up to the last 1cm... but I can't get it home into position.

Last time (in fact every time) I fitted a gearbox, there is a bit of rocking and rolling until the box just snaps (clunks) into position.. but I can't get there with this one.

Am I just turning a bit puny with old age, or have I missed something stoopid? It seems to me, the gearbox shaft/clutch plate are probably not precisely enough aligned.. but I didn't do anything different to what I've ever done before.

Any tips/hints/suggestions? I'm reluctant to take the gearbox off again, since getting it on there was a bit more physical than it sounds up there.. ^ and it's just 1cm away from getting there.

Any way to rotate the clutch/flywheel, in case it's sitting half a spline out of alignment with the shaft etc?


Ralf S.

 

[Davren]

Only thing I can think of that that would stop it going in 1cm are the centring dowels (tubes). They protrude about 1cm. Everything else should be partially engaged if the gap is only 1cm.

The splined gearbox shaft goes in more that 1cm, so if the gap is only 1cm, the gearbox shaft must be aligned and almost fully in.
.

 

[Ralf S.]

Only thing I can think of that that would stop it going in 1cm are the centring dowels (tubes). They protrude about 1cm. Everything else should be partially engaged if the gap is only 1cm.

The splined gearbox shaft goes in more that 1cm, so if the gap is only 1cm, the gearbox shaft must be aligned and almost fully in.
.

I'll have a look... it has to be something simple like that.

I was wondering whether I took the clean rag out of the driveshaft oil seal etc... although that obviously can't be it, it feels like it's got an actual (hard) resistance that's stopping it going on.

Always some gems of good advice on here..


Ralf S.

 

[ruispeed3d]

Hey guys,

As i reached the end of my summer vacation from work, i wanted to share with you guys some of the experiences i had in my massive adventure with my stilo.

During this i actually remembered you, Ralf ...When i managed to assemble all the new parts i started the struggle to push the gearbox back in it's place.

It was much harder than i anticipated...even some foot kicking and juggling had to be made:devil:... But as soon as it kicked in into place it went most of the way smoothly...UNTIL...right about 1cm(Just the same as you Ralf) it stopped going in the rest of the way. But i was not worried and i was confident enough in my work that i deduced it could only be the dowels Davren addressed in his reply to you that had to be pushed inside the hole more tightly.

Sooo...fortunately in that position all the gearbox nuts and bolts could already be fitted so i fitted then...tightened then...and then the only thing left for me to do was slowly but surely tight every single nut and bolt simultaneously so i can slowly pull the gearbox the rest of the way in, of course while she was aligned with the engine with the lifting jack underneath.

In no time, the gearbox married with the engine and it was all good, i had no struggle with any of the nuts or bolts as they pulled the gearbox. From here on i started all the work of installing everything again, change all the brake and clutch fluid while i was at it, bleed the new clutch cylinder, connecting the starter motor, shifter cables, driveshafts, filling with new technyx gearbox oil, etc etc.

In the end got the car up and running again and now it drives smoothly and had no problem so far.

The older clutch disk was seriously worn and it was the cause of my slipping. The flywheel surprisingly had very little play but since i had a complete valeo set, i changed everything, even the crankshaft seal didn't escape my torture

The only downside was i didn't manage to change the gearbox main seal and both the driveshaft seals. I ordered the driveshaft seals from the link you sent me, Ralf, but since the uk no longer remains in the EU i forgot that the seals would go to customs and they took a lot of f*cking time to arrive:bang:... so i had to resume the job without them, luckily for me the old ones are in good shape and neither are leaking. The main seal i was still unable to find anywhere, fortunately no leaking was visible.

Ralf, were you able to fit the gearbox in it's place? how did you go?


Take care,

Rui Louro

 

[Ralf S.]

I managed to do mine in the end..

The problem was the locating dowel. If you look at the picture at the top of the page, the dowel on the right has fallen out. It fell out when I removed the gearbox.. but while I was wrestling with the gearbox and concentrated on getting it out, I didn't have a proper look to see where it came from. I put the dowel onto the left hand stud, just so I wouldn't lose it.

Then I forgot about it (my gearbox was off in June, and I tried to refit it in August) so it was on the stud where there was already a dowel.

Luckily I could pull the gearbox away from the engine enough for the stud to come out (so I could remove the dowel) while the engine was still supported by the driveshaft and input shafts.. so I didn't have to drop the gearbox out and re-fit it on my own. It's just too heavy for me.

Anyhow, it all went very smoothly after that. Even the engine mount lined up with the bracket, which it never usually does.

My driveshaft seals are spectacularly dry.. they always had a very slight oil film on them before... and so far, I can't see any oil coming out of the bottom of the bell-housing.. so I think the new crankshaft seal is better sealed than the old one was (it was leaking at the corner join with the sump, not actually around the crank).

The battery wiring went in like Fiat intended. I've had it apart 2 or 3 times and it's always been different but I noticed the connector blocks have notches, like Lego, in the bottom to line them up in the right place in the battery box. Once I'd clicked the blocks into the right location, the rest of the wiring just fit without the usual "wrestling an octopus".. I'm pleased how that came out.

So far.. very light clutch (lighter than the Younger Mrs S'. Fiat 500 clutch).. and no judders, vibrations, clonks or bangs. Worth it in the end..



Ralf S.

 

[Ralf S.]

Driveshaft and Battery wiring.


Ralf S.

 

[ruispeed3d]

Happy for you that you managed to sort out what was happening with your install. I kinda felt your struggle there cause i also occasionally get tricked by my own memory, i'm very forgetful and often suffer it's consequences :bang:

When i was bleeding the clutch cylinder i almost couldn't believe it but my clutch pedal also became super light...feather light comparing to what it was...I even thought for a bit that something had to be off...it can't possibly be this light wth?...But it changed gears nicely and had no problem with it what so ever.

I like how your cable wiring ended up very tidy, mine doesn't look so good as my fuses and relays box's mounts are all broken and it is kinda just rested there on top of a rat's nest of cables underneath it ...but anyway that's another job for another time.

Your car looks very good and clean...keep up with the good job and keep updating us on future jobs with it.

Stay safe,

Rui Louro

 

[Maxcaddy]

I didn't have a proper look to see where it came from. I put the dowel onto the left hand stud, just so I wouldn't lose it.

Then I forgot about it (my gearbox was off in June, and I tried to refit it in August) so it was on the stud where there was already a dowel.

Ralf S.

Absolutely, I'm sure we've all been there whereby it looks all so straightforward when it comes apart, but then 3 weeks later after you've got the bits and its stopped raining, it's a right game to get it back together .