Technical Another KEY Code2 problem

[servisol30]

Hi All
I have been reading these forums for the last few days. I think I have read every post and thread relating to key code and immobiliser problems, which I have, so I'm now asking for help on here.
Here is the back ground; I have the use of a holiday car (Punto 2000 1.2 16v ELX CVT ) in Italy which remains in a garage with the battery disconnected for 11 months of the year. When I arrived I connected the battery and the car started as always in previous years. I let it run for 20 mins and switched off. After about an hour I returned to the car but this time I used the second key to start it and the dreaded key code light would not switch off, I tried the origional key, same problem.
1. I tried the emergency start procedure, but I could not get it to work. I thought this odd as I have used the procedure on another Punto in the past.
2. I disconnected the battery and short circuited the live and the earth lead (to discharge all residual current in the ECU/BSI ) and the car started (fuel pump primes and code light goes out).
3. When I did this the first time I thought that would be that, however, after switching off a few times and at a different location the same thing happened. Neither key starts the car unless I discharge as described earlier.
4. This went on for about a day so I took it to a local mechanic, when I got there both keys worked fine. After about 5 start attempts, with both keys, the problem reoccurred and then had to do the battery reset procedure to get it going again.
5. I am a mechanic by trade, but have limited tools where I am (multi-meter, a few spanners and screwdrivers). I removed the BSI, unplugged all cables and even separated BSI from the fuse box. All connections looked fine, no signs of any corrosion, put it all back but still had the same problem. Unplugged ECU plugs, once again fine.
6. I have checked the earth on the ECU, removed and cleaned as many earth points under the bonnet that I can see.
7. Checked connections to transponder ring/antennae.
8. Carried out earth volt drop under cranking 0.2V.
9. Battery voltage 12.25V with ignition on.
I am at a loss! The only way to start the car is to carry out a battery discharge, then it can work a few times or just once. I have been to another mechanic and he is talking about virginising the ECU and disconnecting the BSI. From reading these forums I'm not sure if this will work or solve the problem and it seems very last resort. Apart from this issue the car drives normally and all consumer electrics work fine. The other problem I have is that I'm in a very rural town, 100 + Km from the nearest major city. Can anyone help?
Thanks

 

[servisol30]

Update:-

Having seen lots of faults cured by earthing problems so I have fitted a additional earth lead from battery negative terminal and engine ECU, I have also fitted a new car battery. I also checked resistance on transponder ring/antennae (32 Ohms) I'm still getting same problems.

Help!

 

[flisko]

if car is only used 1 month per year i would just bump start it everytime to get it going lol, park on a slight slope

 

[judderbar]

Update:-

Having seen lots of faults cured by earthing problems so I have fitted a additional earth lead from battery negative terminal and engine ECU, I have also fitted a new car battery. I also checked resistance on transponder ring/antennae (32 Ohms) I'm still getting same problems.

Help!

If you installed a battery isolator switch inside the car, or even on the outside of the car, would that be sufficient for such an old car that is hardly used?

 

[servisol30]

I have thought about the isolator idea even fitting a ign fed relay to power BSI (I'd have to work out which wire) My worry is one day this procedure will stop working and I will have a perminatly immobilised car.

 

[varesecrazy]

Update:-

Having seen lots of faults cured by earthing problems so I have fitted a additional earth lead from battery negative terminal and engine ECU, I have also fitted a new car battery. I also checked resistance on transponder ring/antennae (32 Ohms) I'm still getting same problems.

Help!

Hi,
from reading your TECH thread,
it does indeed sound as if something is "locked-out" electronically,

especially if the emergency procedure didn't work..

the only issue I've come across was a Diesel where it wouldn't recognise the key unless the air temp was above 20'c - that was a dodgy relay..:bang:

BUT BOTH your keys DO actually work,
so a BSI fault does sound a logical next step,

however it's your call whether you go for that..., and can deal with the potential hassles of it not working.. with limited tool / assistance,
etc.

have fun..,
Charlie

 

[servisol30]

Thanks for all the advice

I have just taken to local mechanic who had a Texa diagnostic reader. He could not read the BSI at all, but even more strange there were no "U" fault codes in fact no ECUs faults at all . He is going to contact a specialist on Monday to see what can be done. I think he hoping the ECU can be viginised, but as I understand it unless you some how disconnect the key code part of the BSI it will just reinstate the original code to the ECU. Is this even possible? I would consider doing the ECU, BSI, keys , locks, antenna ring thing off eBay but this is not a very common model being 16v, CVT automatic and an Italian spec.

This happens if the car is hot or cold morning, evening, night so don't think it is temp related.