Technical 4x4 Climbing side sills replacement

[MajstrCz]

Hi all,

it seem that right side sill on my Panda rusted away, so I'm trying to get a replacement. However, scanning through eper, there is a difference between normal sills (71734757) that have reasonable price and availability, and Climbing sills (71738307), that are absolutely nowhere to be found (except Fiat dealer for hefty 692,75 EUR in Czechia). Does anyone know whether the normal sill can be used or reasonably hand fitted? And whats the difference? Many thanks for help.

 

[koalar]

I don't know for sure

The A pillar and rear floor pan are also different, so I doubt it will be a straight fit

If it's a small hole right at the bottom an inch or two in from the rear arch, or rusty down the weld seam

It's likely to be just the tip of the iceberg

 

[MajstrCz]

Yea, exactly the same spot and slightly lesser extend. The front of the sill seems relatively ok so far. The plan is to rewelt the internal plates and then cover it with the new sill. Maybe at least the rear section is the same. This is after initial grinding away of the rusty parts, mostly reaching metal now.

 

[koalar]

Instead of cutting up a new sill

You can buy repair patch panels for about £30

I don't know if the curves are the same though

I guess a comparison 4x4 with a standard panda is needed first

 

[MajstrCz]

Yea, I've been looking also into these, guess its worth trying out. Do you know if they go all the way up? But I guess I'll first get them and try out before cutting the whole seam off.

 

[koalar]

Sorry I don't know for sure, looks like it does to me

 

[MajstrCz]

Lets see, I'll report further progress. Many thanks so far.

 

[svennelainen]

Hi @MajstrCz, did you find any further details? I'm in the same situation. Sills are rotten, can not find the Climbing version.
I might go to the local welder shop and ask them to cold roll a blank sheet for me. The standard sills I can get is Klokkerholm and their precision is a bit so so for other cars I've worked with.

 

[DaveMcT]

I bought repair sills expecting to cut where the sill joins the B pillar. In the end I only needed the bottom edge. Nothing like as nasty as yours.

Have you considered getting a good car and swapping the Climbing parts into the new shell?

PS - 100HP sills and wheel arches have punched holes for the body trim buttons. Climbing, 4x4, Cross, etc probably have similar. As far as I can see the panels look the same, just with added lightness. ;-)

 

[MajstrCz]

Sure, they do fit nicely. We were able to restore the rusty parts. Just the final paint is missing now.

 

[MajstrCz]

EAN of the part is 5901532793130

 

[koalar]

Great feedback, now we know for sure the repair patch panels fit the 4x4 perfectly

Well done in sorting it

 

[DaveMcT]

That is a lovely job. Welding thin metal is a real skill. Even with MIG, I still blow far too many holes so mine got done professionally.

I'm sure you don't need may "advise" but don't forget to properly seal the insides with something like Lanoguard (other products are available). In my opinion Waxoyl is not especially good. I did the undersides of a "classic" motorbike's mudguards before storing it away. A few years later, what little remained just peeled off. Thankfully the parts were not corroding, but no thanks to the Waxoyl.

 

[svennelainen]

I don't want to shape the rear end by hand, it drops a little bit with a curve. It looks like I can use the non-climbing sills for my work.

 

[MajstrCz]

I don't want to shape the rear end by hand, it drops a little bit with a curve. It looks like I can use the non-climbing sills for my work.

Yea,the rear end is the most tricky part to fit, because its typically the most rusty. Buut, that section gets covered by the plastic black wheel arch cover anyway, so no worries.

 

[MajstrCz]

That is a lovely job. Welding thin metal is a real skill. Even with MIG, I still blow far too many holes so mine got done professionally.

I'm sure you don't need may "advise" but don't forget to properly seal the insides with something like Lanoguard (other products are available). In my opinion Waxoyl is not especially good. I did the undersides of a "classic" motorbike's mudguards before storing it away. A few years later, what little remained just peeled off. Thankfully the parts were not corroding, but no thanks to the Waxoyl.

Thanks for the compliment. We've used Brunox Epoxy for rust conversion/base paint, C.A.R.FIT 1k hi-build as a filler and MOTIP hollow section wax as a sealer.

 

[MajstrCz]

@DaveMcT just noticed your point about swapping the whole chassis from "normal" Panda - I doubt thats an option, because afaik the chassis are different - for instance rear subframe mounting points for the Climbing independent suspension.

 

[koalar]

@DaveMcT just noticed your point about swapping the whole chassis from "normal" Panda - I doubt thats an option, because afaik the chassis are different - for instance rear subframe mounting points for the Climbing independent suspension.

Correct

I was ignoring it

It's been asked many times and I have explain why it will not work as a straight swap


Different tunnel for prop shaft
Different A post
Different C post

There. completely different

 

[svennelainen]

Yea,the rear end is the most tricky part to fit, because its typically the most rusty. Buut, that section gets covered by the plastic black wheel arch cover anyway, so no worries.

I was actually considering welding it straight and fill up the gap between the sill and the fender flare with a 3D printed extra fender piece.

 

[porta]

As regards the rear of the cill/wheelarch, I’d alter it to fit bigger tyres, I did this on my climbing, after a botched accident repair went rusty, I decided to put a new part panel on