General 3500~ Miles a year

[blackpool]

http://www.mike65.ukfsn.org/main/uploads/files/lightswitch/1/

So exciting watching it 5 roll over at once.


Anyway, this is the current state of my light switch http://www.mike65.ukfsn.org/main/uploads/files/lightswitch/1/DSCF5669.JPG

What I want is one switch that the top position is off, the middle is sidelights and the third position is sidelights + main beam, what sort of switch do i need to buy?


also whats this for? http://www.mike65.ukfsn.org/main/uploads/files/lightswitch/1/DSCF5670.JPG

Was rattling around behind the lightswitch, could it be the power for the light behind the blue block on the temperature controls?

 

[4WDPandamonium]

Congrats on the big 6-0!

I have recently been poking around this area as my headlight switch melted the other week. I think the unidentified plug is for the headlight switch illumination (also illuminates the other buttons on that panel). The switch you describe you want is the original, I purchased one from Ricambo.

There is a fix for the melting switch issue, have a search, it involves relaying the headlights separately, I haven't done it myself but will be if my new headlight switch gives up the go soon.

 

[blackpool]

Thanks although only 7k of them are mine



I want a switch that functions like the original but it doesnt have to fit in the hole, it will just be neater having 1 switch and not 2 dangling around.



Where does the illumination wire plug in? could I possibly connect it through the aperture left by the lightswitch? or will I have to take the dash apart to connect it?

 

[firstcar-Y10]

if you don't want a standard switch (looks like the standard connector is long gone so I can understand) maybe this:
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Rotary_Headlamp_Switch_With_Symbol_ROSWHL2
the cable you have there looks like it is for the panel lights but (and there's another thread kicking about just now) if it is not connected that probably means the clear plastic illumination block is not fitted so nowhere to plug it into unless you can lay your hands on that.
if you want to check it out, the dash front comes off with 5 easily accessible screws, one each end and 3 along the bottom, without removing anything else, 2 minute job. Obvious from there, clock unscrews first, then switch block and you can get to the back. No way you're connecting anything through the switch hole.
Andrew.