General 2015 X250 3.0 Selespeed cfc348 (comfortmatic) SHOCKINGLY COSTLY REPAIRS

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General 2015 X250 3.0 Selespeed cfc348 (comfortmatic) SHOCKINGLY COSTLY REPAIRS

Ok so I bought this oil for it and managed to take a picture of the selespeed reservoir this morning without opening doors or turning on ignition. A picture taken even through the reservoir the oil looks new as I would have expected, however it looks low. I am hoping to somehow remove a sample and check it against fresh oil.

Over the weekend I hope to:
Change oil if sample shows significant difference between old and new oil, otherwise just top up
Run a clutch drain in MES
Run a production/service final calibration in MES

Is there any reason I should not do any of these in MES? also I believe that the oil capacity is 500ml in the reservoir?
 

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OK so today I topped up the reservoir with the correct oil.

Went into MES and carried out the following Procedures:

Clutch Drain, then Production/Service final Calibration, then Clutch Self-Calibration.

All three procedures shows Completed and status : 00
After the process the clutch Self-calibration showed 'Correct' as before it used to show 'Not Performed'. However, when you exit MES and then reconnect, this shows that it reverts back to Not Performed. I did this three times but same result, does anyone know why?
 
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HI
I have done the process more than a dozen times after replacing the clutch & twice after master cylinder problems.
I have only had an issue once when there was not enough battery. (Carried out with engine not running) A warning of "Fatal Battery" or something like that came up on the screen halfway through.
New battery & started process again with no problems.
I wish I could help as these things are so frustrating.
 
Thank you, I had a battery charger on it all the time and it had 13.5v on Engine parameters and 12.0v on gearbox parameter readings
 
Just thinking & going through it in my head.
At the end there is a process of turning ignition off (always pull key) and wait so long before starting.
Ok will try that, its says wait 15 seconds. Can I ask does this process involve driving the vehicle in 2nd gear taking it to 2000 revs then stopping ? It doesn't say in MES but I read this somewhere.
 
No. I go through the process & once completed I start the engine. Move to 1st & hear gear engaged then move to reverse & hear gear engage.
Time for a test drive. All works as it should.
Side note: with a new clutch plate it is a bit bitey starting off from standstill but settles after about 20 stop starts.
 
No. I go through the process & once completed I start the engine. Move to 1st & hear gear engaged then move to reverse & hear gear engage.
Time for a test drive. All works as it should.
Side note: with a new clutch plate it is a bit bitey starting off from standstill but settles after about 20 stop starts.
Thank you I will try that tomorrow and let you know what happens
 
Apart from the two master cylinder issues all the others have had the Concentric Slave Cylinder replaced which makes sure all the clutch fluid is replaced.
The bleeding nipple is not at the "end of line" but up the cylinder shaft does not allow a perfect fluid change & also allows for air to be trapped.
I have set up a complete system on the bench for testing & you can bleed 20 times & still have dirty fluid in slave cylinder.
With yours it is saying complete after each step but maybe still a bit of air in there. I am grasping at straws now.
 
So I should bleed the clutch several times and then do a Clutch Self-Calibration and hopefully it'll store it this way as 'Correct'?
 
Correct.
I do it manually first.
1) top up container
2) tube 800mm long & large syringe on bleed nipple
3) open bleed nipple - use fingers or 13mm spanner
4) draw through fluid.
I do about 100mls of fluid this way before going to Multiecuscan process.
---------
This following I do first when someone turns up with a suspected clutch/selespeed problem.

Following "only" if "NOT" changing the clutch plate
1) Have tube up high & tie tube end into a container.
2) open bleed nipple
3) Have someone in drivers seat if possible
4) Ign on - move stick to 1st & fluid will pump through tube (it won't rush out. It won't even fill the tube first go)
5) Move stick to Reverse fluid will pump through.
6) Check clutch fluid container.
I do this 4 times. (1st then Reverse counts as 1 time)
Then check operation with engine running.
 
OK decided to have another go via MES Today, before trying anything physical on it. I noted the parameters (have a habit to do this every time). In MES I ran the 'Clutch drain' THREE times, then ran 'Production/Service final calibration and noted that the 'Gearbox/clutch self calibration is now showing 'Correct' and it seems to remember this as opposed to yesterday when it kept reverting to 'Not performed'. I didn't run the 'clutch self-calibration enable as I thought it might then affect the correct result earlier. Will go for a test drive and report back.
 
So after doing the above procedures, had a quick lunch, jumped in and checked it and it reverted back to Not Performed in Gearbox/Clutch Self-calibration, ran procedure again which showed 'Correct' and immediately took her for a short test drive on local roads, she changed gears between 1 and 3 beautifully (as 20mph speed limit here and being London traffic!) and changing back down as needed all very smoothly, however nearing the end of my trip she again jumped out of gear into N!
:(
After returning checked and again in MES and it shows Not Performed.
(There are no error codes logged)
 
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I've just checked the battery in there, it's a 95Ah one, seems to start fine etc but should it be a higher rating? If so would a 95Ah possibly affect the gearbox?
 
We always use 110ah with 850 to 900cca. I & others replace every 3 years.
Your 95ah will be ok if your alternator is good & no extra heater (under seat) fitted & the battery needs to be in good condition.
Back the gearbox & those numbers are fine.
You need to do a run collecting the data & catching it jumping to neutral.
Then I would remove & clean all connections on the gearbox. There are 9 connectors plus the earth strap. The earth should have an extra one added even if you have never had a problem as it is well documented that it will raise an issue one day.
There are the connectors & wiring around fuse box area that is prone to moisture & corosion as well as earth points under headlight.
All these are time consuming but must be done.
Remove headlight & air filter housing to do all this.
Check & clean MAF sensor connector as it's right there when removing air filter housing.
 
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