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I have a 1996 ducato 1.9td with a knackered water pump, is this just a straight change or is it connected to the timing belt .
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Technical 1996 Ducato water pump
- Thread starter Runrig55
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Technical 1996 Ducato water pump
I recently removed and replaced the water pump on my 1993 1.9TD Ducato. If yours is similar I can tell you it forms part of the R/H engine mounting and while the timing belt does NOT need to be disturbed the job is far from an easy one, access in tight spaces being the worst aspect. Here's what you need to do:-
1. Jack up the chassis and support it on stands to the rear of the gearbox. You need access underneath and to the rear of the cylinder block.
2. Remove the sheet metal dust cover under the crankshaft area, 3 x 10mm bolts.
3. Get underneath and remove the alternator, 2 wires, 1 x 19mm long bolt and nut, and an adjustment strap which bolts onto the water pump.
4. Jack up the engine R/H side and support it well enough to remove the 4 engine mounting bolts that clamp the water pump down to the rubber engine mount.
5. Remove the rubber mount from the chassis to give more room to work.
6. Fathom out which water pump bolts to remove, that's all of them that clamp it to the side of the block, 5 x 13mm maybe, plus one small 10mm one holding a tin cover in place. Some bolts that clamp the water pump together can be left in.
7. Bump the water pump off the steel water pipe that runs horizontally across the back of the cylinder block, it's sealed by a rubber 'O' ring.
8. Fit new pump with a new 'O' ring and new gasket making sure the gasket is firmly stuck and lined up to the block first, which you will have cleaned carefully. I used 'Hylomar' blue.
9. Reassemble everything in reverse order of removal, you should have disturbed nothing regarding timing. Poor access is the worst aspect.
Note:- One of the long water pump bolts must be slipped into the hole BEFORE you offer the pump up, there isn't room to get it in afterwards, the flitch plate or chassis is in the way.
Good luck !
1. Jack up the chassis and support it on stands to the rear of the gearbox. You need access underneath and to the rear of the cylinder block.
2. Remove the sheet metal dust cover under the crankshaft area, 3 x 10mm bolts.
3. Get underneath and remove the alternator, 2 wires, 1 x 19mm long bolt and nut, and an adjustment strap which bolts onto the water pump.
4. Jack up the engine R/H side and support it well enough to remove the 4 engine mounting bolts that clamp the water pump down to the rubber engine mount.
5. Remove the rubber mount from the chassis to give more room to work.
6. Fathom out which water pump bolts to remove, that's all of them that clamp it to the side of the block, 5 x 13mm maybe, plus one small 10mm one holding a tin cover in place. Some bolts that clamp the water pump together can be left in.
7. Bump the water pump off the steel water pipe that runs horizontally across the back of the cylinder block, it's sealed by a rubber 'O' ring.
8. Fit new pump with a new 'O' ring and new gasket making sure the gasket is firmly stuck and lined up to the block first, which you will have cleaned carefully. I used 'Hylomar' blue.
9. Reassemble everything in reverse order of removal, you should have disturbed nothing regarding timing. Poor access is the worst aspect.
Note:- One of the long water pump bolts must be slipped into the hole BEFORE you offer the pump up, there isn't room to get it in afterwards, the flitch plate or chassis is in the way.
Good luck !
It's not a timing belt job as the water pump is not driven from the timing belt! It is however a complete PITA job as its very tight. When everything is off I would as a matter of course replace the timing belt, tensioner etc etc.
I got ready to remove the timing belt but it is unrelated to the water pump job and even the belt cover can stay where it is. Besides which the timing belt replacement is an hours work at the most, not a big job.
You will have to remove the rubber/fabric air pipe from turbocharger to aftercooler to get access clearance.
It is not a difficult job, I give it 2 spanners out of 5, but tight clearances make it a real pain. I also removed the water tube that passes across the back of the block as they get very rusty, and it's an opportunity to clean, derust and paint it.
Lastly any water pipe clips if they are still the original Fiat ones, you need to cut them and replace with spring or worm drive clips, the Fiat originals are not re-usable.
You will have to remove the rubber/fabric air pipe from turbocharger to aftercooler to get access clearance.
It is not a difficult job, I give it 2 spanners out of 5, but tight clearances make it a real pain. I also removed the water tube that passes across the back of the block as they get very rusty, and it's an opportunity to clean, derust and paint it.
Lastly any water pipe clips if they are still the original Fiat ones, you need to cut them and replace with spring or worm drive clips, the Fiat originals are not re-usable.
