ok thank you...much appreciated.
Technical Fiat Ducato 2.3 MultiJet water pump leaking need help with different length bolt positions!!
- Thread starter MrkT
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Technical Fiat Ducato 2.3 MultiJet water pump leaking need help with different length bolt positions!!
Yes but as communicator mentions gradually tighten each bolt a little at a time working in criss cross pattern until final torque reached.
Funny thing is Jack....that's exactly what i did do..............hopefully its a dodgy pump,seals or dodgy torque wrench! (the latter is a definite possibility.....the only one i had that would go down to 35nm was an really old dinosaur!)
Re your torque wrench, even with a good one I keep it well oiled, always back off the tension when not using and finally after setting the torque I often "click it off " in the vice so I know it is registering correctly.
A few years ago a lad up the road rebuilt his Toyota Starlet engine and promptly snapped several head bolts due to a cheap new torque wrench, on the second attempt I torqued them using my wrench.
that's very good advice Mike......this one didn't click at first! (i should have tested it in the vice first as you suggested!)(it had been lying around unused for 40 years!)Re your torque wrench, even with a good one I keep it well oiled, always back off the tension when not using and finally after setting the torque I often "click it off " in the vice so I know it is registering correctly.
A few years ago a lad up the road rebuilt his Toyota Starlet engine and promptly snapped several head bolts due to a cheap new torque wrench, on the second attempt I torqued them using my wrench.
It cannot be trusted You would be very sensible to throw it away.......unless a very expensive good one which case get it serviced and re-calibrated .
yes i fully intend to Jack.....just tested it against another one.......30nm takes a lot more pull than the other newer one,so guess its goosed.
lycopersicum
Member
My mechanic used a sealant. I could see it squeezing out at the joint line. No issues so far.
lycopersicum
Member
He also told me, the previous pump had been bolted so tight, he had to angle grind it off the engine block.
i think that's impossible....it would have snapped the bolts first before anyone could tighten that tight. (25nm is the correct torque)
More likely aluminium to steel corrosion, if no antifreeze due to living in a warm climate, South of France?
Lovely area, last time I visited was 1977, fancied retiring there when old, two ex wives have put a stop to that.
Hi,just to give you all an update........i have just ordered a genuine fiat (Iveco) water pump,genuine seals and new bolts which should be with me today.most aftermarket kits,like the Gates one i bought do not come with the correct size seals...this can lead to leaks,like mine has. The genuine seals are just over 3.5mm thick.....the aftermarket ones when compared side by side look half the thickness!
As for the water pump bolts; a lot of you tube videos can be misleading.......all bolts are the same size except for the 3 fuel pump bolts which are slightly shorter being M8 20mm and the one m6 bolt top left on the pump.(10mm head) all the other bolts are M8 28mm. The small M6 bolt should be torqued to 10nm,all the others get torqued to 25nm according to fiat or 30nm according to Iveco. some you-tube videos are saying torque up to 35nm (which is what i did after watching those!) i have just emailed North east van and truck (a fiat/Iveco professional workshop in the area where i'm getting the pump from) and await a definite answer.
Anyone thinking of doing this job....ours is a 2014 Carthago chic c-line motorhome,(52k miles) access is far worse than any other van or motorhome!! the you-tube videos have you removing the expansion tank and unbolting the power steering fluid housing,and a very awkward to get at bracket....i found it is not necessary. you only need to loosen the top engine mount bolts (until almost out but not quite....these are very long bolts) to allow the engine enough room to drop down to remove the bottom pully.(obviously support the engine on a block of wood and trolly jack) This then will also allow you to remove the timing belt cover from the bottom. (although the latter is a "basket" to get out/in anyway!!)
In hindsight i wish i had left the water pump alone......there was nothing wrong with it,no leaks and absolutely no play.
I have since heard Iveco say they only usually inspect these for the above when changing timing belts as the genuine pump should last the life of the engine! (obviously there will be exceptions no doubt!) if only i had known this before hand it would have saved me a load of grief!!
As for the water pump bolts; a lot of you tube videos can be misleading.......all bolts are the same size except for the 3 fuel pump bolts which are slightly shorter being M8 20mm and the one m6 bolt top left on the pump.(10mm head) all the other bolts are M8 28mm. The small M6 bolt should be torqued to 10nm,all the others get torqued to 25nm according to fiat or 30nm according to Iveco. some you-tube videos are saying torque up to 35nm (which is what i did after watching those!) i have just emailed North east van and truck (a fiat/Iveco professional workshop in the area where i'm getting the pump from) and await a definite answer.
Anyone thinking of doing this job....ours is a 2014 Carthago chic c-line motorhome,(52k miles) access is far worse than any other van or motorhome!! the you-tube videos have you removing the expansion tank and unbolting the power steering fluid housing,and a very awkward to get at bracket....i found it is not necessary. you only need to loosen the top engine mount bolts (until almost out but not quite....these are very long bolts) to allow the engine enough room to drop down to remove the bottom pully.(obviously support the engine on a block of wood and trolly jack) This then will also allow you to remove the timing belt cover from the bottom. (although the latter is a "basket" to get out/in anyway!!)
In hindsight i wish i had left the water pump alone......there was nothing wrong with it,no leaks and absolutely no play.
I have since heard Iveco say they only usually inspect these for the above when changing timing belts as the genuine pump should last the life of the engine! (obviously there will be exceptions no doubt!) if only i had known this before hand it would have saved me a load of grief!!
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If you have aircon, remove the compressor from its mounting plate and hang it nearby so that the connections aren't under tension. Then you can simply use a bar between the compressor bracket and the chassis rail to move the engine sideways a couple of millimetres. No need to drop the engine, the upper mount easily allows the small sideways movement required. That is all that's needed to access and remove the crank pulley and the timing belt cover, although you do need to have the van jacked up high enough to get the cover out.
I used to have access to Fiat's tech portal and this was the method shown under belt replacement procedure for my Ducato when I replaced the belt 4 years ago, although the process of removing the fluid reservoirs and offside upper engine mount was originally shown in the procedure when I first looked it up around 2016.
It cuts the time to do the job down considerably and makes it easier if you're lying beneath the van, as you don't have to work around a trolley jack or whatever you're using to support the dropped engine.
Being a bit OCD I taped a thin sheet of perspex to the chassis rail first, so that neither levering against it with the pry-bar or removing the pulley and cover left and scratches or marks in the paint
Hi,thanks for that.........However,i am glad i did it my way as undoing the pump bolts i had another one snap! This bolt didn't feel like it was tightening properly,so i stopped tightening it any further when i fitted that pump......luckily with the engine down slightly and plenty of thread showing after removing the pump i was able to extract it easily. i tightened these wrongly to 35nm as i was led to believe via youtube.......it was only after i had problems i found out they should be either 25nm according to fiat or 30nm according to Iveco. (i am waiting confirmation the correct NM) that could have ended a lot worse and a big lesson learnt!!If you have aircon, remove the compressor from its mounting plate and hang it nearby so that the connections aren't under tension. Then you can simply use a bar between the compressor bracket and the chassis rail to move the engine sideways a couple of millimetres. No need to drop the engine, the upper mount easily allows the small sideways movement required. That is all that's needed to access and remove the crank pulley and the timing belt cover, although you do need to have the van jacked up high enough to get the cover out.
I used to have access to Fiat's tech portal and this was the method shown under belt replacement procedure for my Ducato when I replaced the belt 4 years ago, although the process of removing the fluid reservoirs and offside upper engine mount was originally shown in the procedure when I first looked it up around 2016.
It cuts the time to do the job down considerably and makes it easier if you're lying beneath the van, as you don't have to work around a trolley jack or whatever you're using to support the dropped engine.
Being a bit OCD I taped a thin sheet of perspex to the chassis rail first, so that neither levering against it with the pry-bar or removing the pulley and cover left and scratches or marks in the paint
