Tuning 1368cc 16v - Classic Panda 100HP

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Tuning 1368cc 16v - Classic Panda 100HP

Well done lewis on the mot !!! Cant wait to see the car in the flesh - may ask you to take me for a spin round the block;) As for your bumpers, maybe try meguairs bumper restore stuff, seemed to resurect mine a treat, no silicone in it either so you dont get the oily-ness.(y)
 
Here are a few pics and some info.

Engine & transmission
1368 16v with Punto 5 speed gearbox. Driveshafts are Cinq sporting with Panda CV joints. Cable gear lever added from Punto. Work great, looks bad. This will be replaced shortly with late Y10 equipment that slots in a lot neater.

Interior
Have interior from a LHD Mk2 Y10 in. Plans for interior are to ditch all the grey plastic and get black stuff throughout, find some door panels and dash colour that compliment if not match the Y10 seats, fit black rubber flooring from Fizz rather than carpet (you probably know the stuff) and fit centre console and Panda gear stick to keep that looking standard. I got a late model FIAT key blank and managed to get it into the original key which is tidy. This then works like it should with the immobiliser pickup around the barrel. Dials are just chopped down a bit and stuck in the binnacle (can you tell?!). This needs a vanity panel around the outside and the original plastic window fashioning onto it to make it look decent.

Suspension, wheels & brakes
Standardish. Will be Fitting entire Y10 front suspension set up with anti-roll bar and substituting shocks for some LEDA race adjustables and much harder springs. Will drill the turrets to match the Y10's 3 holes rather than the Panda's somewhat weaker 2. Brakes are standard Selecta. Simply couldn't put bigger brakes under the 13" wheels. Wheels are Punto mk1 SX model 5x13s. 165/65/13s at the moment provide a good balance of urgency and relaxed top speed in terms of gearing. The car is light enough and the gearing short enough that top speed will simply be the rev limiter in 5th. (untested as yet!)

Electronics
Running on Punto electronics throughout. Original panda fuse box replaced with Punto fusebox and body computer. Additional under bonnet fuse box added near master cylinder. All lights, ancilleries, sensors, fans and of course engine management runs through the body computer and displays info on the dash. Dash switches doctored to provide the right input to activate functions from the ECUs. Currently, there is no speed indication as there is no longer an ABS ECU and associated sensors. Working on this one.

Fueling and exhaust
Fueling handled by Punto ECU of course with a hybrid pump arrangement sitting in the tank. This has the base of the Punto pump, including regulator and the top part is Panda so it all fits in the original position. One fuel line is left unused and the other goes straight to the injectors with no return. Exhaust is standard Selecta (two silencer) until just before the manifold, where it joins a short section of the original Punto pipe which joins to the manifold via the original flexi. Manifold is original with built in cat silencer. The car is very quiet when idling! The Selecta exhaust is wider than other Pandas and the same width as the Punto Sporting suprisingly, so should provide the same flow as original spec.

I am thinking about the camping weekend. I think I'd probably sleep in the car if I did come!
 

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Looking good Lewey, now I know what all that unused space under the bonnet of a stock Panda is for!! :D

I can't wait to see it in the flesh...

I'm guessing the electrics worked out less complicated in the long run just to replace the lot rather than splice the Punto engine management loom into the stock Panda one...

On one of Crashtest33's posts he mentions a company that will unlock the ecu's immobiliser for a fee... This might be useful...

Anyway, I'm eagerly awaiting the next posts... Cheers, Luke. (y)
 
Thanks for all the positive comments! If I make it to the camping do or any other do, you are all welcome to have a ride. I may well be asking you whether you have some of the bits I mentioned earlier so we can do a handover at the meet. Door cards (small fine), rear panels and dash that look similar to my seats are high on the list of wants...


I'm guessing the electrics worked out less complicated in the long run just to replace the lot rather than splice the Punto engine management loom into the stock Panda one...
It was definitely more complicated to do it the way I have done it. The issue is that to make the engine run you need both the fuse boxes pictured, the engine ECU and the body ECU and a lot of wires. You then need the dash to know what is actually going on. That is a lot of stuff to have lying around or tucked away as well as the existing stuff. It was much neater to do it the way I have and it should be more reliable once any teething problems are sorted. However, learning how all the stuff works and the time consuming job of splicing 100 wires correctly is one of the reasons this project took/is taking so long.
 
Wow, what a fantastic bit of work!! And its the ultimate sleeper, the grey bumper just adds to the suprise :D

Unfortiunately, this means I now have to do something rediculously insane to top that! :eek:.....I had better get my skates on!

Really look forward to seeing the work,

Cheers,
Si
 
Wow, what a fantastic bit of work!! And its the ultimate sleeper, the grey bumper just adds to the suprise :D

Unfortiunately, this means I now have to do something rediculously insane to top that! :eek:.....I had better get my skates on!

Really look forward to seeing the work,

Cheers,
Si
To be fair, your engine building project is pretty insane and at least as adventurous as this thing IMO.
 
To be fair, your engine building project is pretty insane and at least as adventurous as this thing IMO.

insanity makes the wheels on the panda go round and round...round and round..round and round.

I think half the reason I havent started is that I have never built an engine before :eek: and once the engine is taken apart and machined...no turning back :eek:

Anyway...thats already in the pipe line....T-jet ay! :devil:

Si
 
It was definitely more complicated to do it the way I have done it. The issue is that to make the engine run you need both the fuse boxes pictured, the engine ECU and the body ECU and a lot of wires. You then need the dash to know what is actually going on. That is a lot of stuff to have lying around or tucked away as well as the existing stuff. It was much neater to do it the way I have and it should be more reliable once any teething problems are sorted. However, learning how all the stuff works and the time consuming job of splicing 100 wires correctly is one of the reasons this project took/is taking so long.

Well fair play!! The thing I'm most intimidated by is the electrics and although it is part and parcel of modern, efficient, high power low consumption engines I'm still very taken with the idea of twin 40mm DCOE Webers and a dizzy take off from the cam wheel :p... However My 1242 project has got as far as stripping the engine back prior to removing the head for inspection... I expect the bits from a scrapped 1242 will be about 10% the price of 2 Webers, a dizzy and all the ancillaries... :(

Keep up the good work! It's inspiring to say the least!!

Luke. (y)
 
Well fair play!! The thing I'm most intimidated by is the electrics and although it is part and parcel of modern, efficient, high power low consumption engines I'm still very taken with the idea of twin 40mm DCOE Webers and a dizzy take off from the cam wheel :p... However My 1242 project has got as far as stripping the engine back prior to removing the head for inspection... I expect the bits from a scrapped 1242 will be about 10% the price of 2 Webers, a dizzy and all the ancillaries... :(

Keep up the good work! It's inspiring to say the least!!

Luke. (y)

:yeahthat: I just spent ages looking for a 16v engine.. couldn't find much though.

Lewey, is it a really tight fit between the manifold and rad?
 
Keep up the good work! It's inspiring to say the least!!

Luke. (y)

Awww. How nice!

Webers are good for you and I wouldn't discourage that. I would encourage the use of electronic ignition to use with them though. There is already a crank sensor and wheel on your engine and you can fit an off the shelf throttle sensor to the weber spindle to get load input and therefore create a very good 3D map. I do this on my carbed Westfield and it works VERY well. You could use the cheap megajolt system or look for a second hand built unit and loom from the likes of MBE, Omex, Emerald. I paid £250 second hand for my MBE unit with loom and throttle sensor 2 years ago. I plugged it all in, downloaded a map from the internet and drove to the rolling road. Very satisfying!
 
This would mean no need for an expensive modified dizzy?? (got talking to a guy at Race Retro who rebuilds/modifies dizzies and ignition systems and he suggested a modified Manta set up for £250/300 :eek:) With megajolt could one tune the advance/retardation of ignition to suit off a laptop like megasquirt? I like the idea of megasquirt but it may be too much spaghetti for my feeble electrical capacities!!:eek:

This is getting interesting!!;)

Cheers, Luke. (y)
 
Megajolt is simply ignition only. You can do all the same stuff as Megasquirt but without injection control. My knowledge of Megajolt and squirt is limited, so i suggest you research the rest if it is a path you might go down.

However, if you are adverswe to wiring, try a built unit that I mentioned before. You can do it for less than the £300 quoted for the modded dizzy and it will be so much more reliable and high performance. Using dirty big carbs or otherwise modding the engine is a very good reason to have proper electronic ignition as this can actually help the smooth running of the engine at the bottom and provide the best possible performance all the way up the rev range. Dizzys can't do this and are always compromised.
 
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