Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

Currently reading:
Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

Yea? Is that 1320 autos? I definately wanna get it set up on a rolling road but was hoping to have it starting and idling properly before I do so I know the hardware side of everything is ok. Otherwise it could get expensive in rr time that isn't used for mapping. If I could get it to idle so I know all my sensors and signals are ok then I'd be more than happy to trailer it off to the rr.

Hope that isn't too much of a ramble!

Lenny
 
I have no idea honestly I don't because I couldn't get it to idle which is meant to be quite easy I suspect something may be wrong, I.e. wired up wrong, not shielded properly but I have tried different things to no avail. So I think I need someone who knows megasquirt as it could be something simple but I don't know what I'm looking for.

Lenny
 
Yea? Is that 1320 autos?

Yes

I definately wanna get it set up on a rolling road but was hoping to have it starting and idling properly before I do so I know the hardware side of everything is ok. Otherwise it could get expensive in rr time that isn't used for mapping. If I could get it to idle so I know all my sensors and signals are ok then I'd be more than happy to trailer it off to the rr.

Hope that isn't too much of a ramble!

Lenny

That's pretty concise! Yep, I agree.
 
I'll post up my msq file and a datalog of the car running terribly later on today, I don't finish work until 4.30.

I have spoke briefly to Craig and he thinks there is possibly an issue with the engine itself I.e. timing or leads so I'll double check these too and do a compression test. Although the battery is probably flat now! So compression test may not be until tomorrow.

Thanks again guys

Lenny
 
here is all hes files.

I noticed on the datalogs that the map was really jumpy when cranking.
it has like a pulse with it going from 99kpa to around 85kpa with a distinctive pattern.

ALSO on the same pattern is also has little jumps of positive pressure.

My only theory is timing out or the coils connected the wrong way
 

Attachments

  • megasquirtinfo.zip
    180.7 KB · Views: 33
Fuel mixture is probably extremely rich after starting, which causes rich misfires.

Cranking RPM should be around 400. ASE should be around 30 at 0o C and 5 at 80o C. Warmup should also be around 130 at 0o C and climp down to zero at 80o C. At least that is how i keep my car around AFR 14 during warming up.

Can't comment on spark settings, never used MS1. Be sure the 1st tooth angle is 114o.

Set minimum discharge spark time at 2ms. Set all spark idle areas from 10 to 18, to get a stronger idle, you can later return them at 10, after VE tuning.
 
No, i got a 1242, but that means that yours should be even more efficient than mine's. If I need 30% warmup enrichment, there is no way yours should need 50%. Might be 25% or 35%, but surely not 50.

Anyway, try theses values and see. If it doesn't run better, do one of the next:

a) Turn on the ignition key and let two minutes to pass. Then start your engine. Lamda sensor would now be hot enough to give an almost accurate reading. If it show less than 12:1, then you need to lower ASE values. If it shows random and sudden movement from rich to lean, it means you are having a rich misfire, mixture is so rich that engine cannot ignite it and lamda sensor reads O2 from the unburnt mixture. Lower your req_fuel and try again.

b) Set all ASE and WUE values to 0 and 100 respectively. Now it's up to the req fuel number to get the car running. You might need to start from 15 or 16 and as the car warms up, to decrease this one ms each time, until the car reaches 80 degrees. Don't alter your VE table, until the cars reaches 80 degrees, only req_fuel is the thing to play with. Then tune the idle and around areas, so the ca idles around 14-14.5 AFR. If you end with values around 20-30 at the VE table, than multiply the whole VE table with 1.5 and divide the req_fuel by the same value. You are seeking a table with 50s at the idle area and 150s at WOT, in order to get the best resolution. Then you can refill the ASE ad WUE tables with 30-40s and 130-140s respectively. Next day you start the engine, you wait again two minutes for the lamda to heat before starting up and then tune your ASE and WUE tables, until you get 14-14.5 idling through out the whole warmup time.
 
Yeap, just checked your datalog, AFR while cranking is 10.5 and when finally it starts goes all the way up to 7.5. That's way too much for the engine to run, try lowering ASE to 30 and WUE to 130.

And definately chage that cranking rpm to 400. Your starter rotates the crank at 300-350 rpm, so MS thinks engine is already started and uses the 90-100kPa values of VE table instead of the cranking pulse and floods the cylinders.
 
Last edited:
If the 1368 uses the same 60-2 tooth wheel as the 1108/1242, with 114o angle from TDC to sensor, then at spark settings, 69 is the trigger angle and trigger angle addition at +45. Press F1 to read help...
 
Yes I have the 1242 60-2 trigger wheel fitted, I checked the trigger angle in a way I was told to by counting teeth from tdc to sensor I forget exactly how it was now its been a while! I'll try anything you guys suggest to me you have a vast knowledge of ms and I have nada!

Thanks again

Lenny
 
The 60-2 trigger angle is 114 degrees. So do first what i told you at the above post, press F1 and read, you need to set angle addition at +45 and angle at 69. Plus Cranking rpm at 400. These are vital info for MS. Then check AFR and lower ASE ad WUE as needed.
 
Back
Top