General 100,000 Miles in a Multijet.

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General 100,000 Miles in a Multijet.

Wifey drives a 2006 MJ Sporting
96k
We know the history of the car since 43k although it was not my wifes but once belonged to my former boss as run around
He fitted a drivers front strut/damper just after he got it.
He changed the oil every 5k without fail as we both thought for the sake of 3L of oil and a tiny filter the cost minimal
I always maintained that the car needed front springs.
I replaced the front springs, bump stops as they were split and top mounts
It didnt really need the top mounts but I had ordered everything before I dismantled
I also fitted an EGR blocking plate and had an EGR delete performed. No more little puff of black smoke that we had seen for several years over the two owners.
It is on the 3rd set of brake pads as best we know
It is on the 2nd set of rear shoes
Other than that its going nicely but it doesnt sound like brand new when cold as I would expect but there is nothing untoward. It goes the same as the day my former boss and I test drove it about 5 years ago.
I zero the mpg every fill and it near always ends up between 60 and 63mpg. We dont do much/any city driving but near all driving is on A and B roads.
My wife sends it on and I thrash the thing. The recorded mpg is pretty close to recorded miles V Litres fuel.

I have had loads of Fiats and we have this and a Seicento Abarth that just refuses to leave here plus an Ducato Maxi IDTD Pilote Galaxy 860 and overall they are all good vehicles.
I have done well above average miles all my earlier life and I dont expect perfection but once Fiat got the rot stopped I really liked them
I had a Mirafiora Rally and used to joke about where the next hole would be this morning despite the thing being half plastic.
I transplanted the engine and box into a very well used/abused Mexico and I used that for several years to it fell apart. Certainly made a job out of that and sickened just about everything of the day and the steering wheel was on the correct side.
I got more for the rotting Rally shell than covered the cost of the Mexico
Wish the Seicento would be so good to us.

I'm editing in a little bit here
I got my daughter in law a 1242 Dynamic and I agree that they can also do very good milage as suggested above. Actually easier on fuel than the Seicento
 
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All that is very reassuring!

Mine gives just 60 mpg overall and I had been thinking, after hearing some amazing economy figures on here, that it was a mite thirsty - but I'm happy with this little puddle-jumper. It's pushing 100k now without any major problems or replacements apart from routine service items.

Bonnet paint is bubbling but I can't blame Fiat for this as it has been resprayed after a minor shunt. Come warmer weather and I'll take it off and paint it properly.

I also found low down torque disappointing, until I removed the back box, deleted the egr by wiring in an electronic mod, altered the combustion air inlet (crazy air passage with stock system) and chipped it. It goes well now, with none of the dreaded clutch slip others have had.

Big complaint is the seats - both the shape and the material. I have stripped out the drivers seat squab and repadded it, which has helped, but the material shows the dirt very quickly. So I take off the squabs now and then (two 10mm bolts underneath) and pressure-wash them. True! Dry them in a warm room and they come up like new.

Cheapo oil and filter changed every 5k. I am not a believer in extended servicing intervals, especially for the filters. Cost-effective preventive medicine.

It's a keeper. I'll just run it till it sinks into the ground.
 
My former bosses wife who used to use this little car a lot had no trouble getting well over 70mpg on the dash but she must have been a lot lighter on the go pedal than either my wife or myself.
As to the question, is diesel easy on fuel. A lot has to do with how you see it and how you use it and last but not least how much the thing cost to buy.
Yes sweetsixteen extended oil changes are not a good idea but are another marketing ploy.
As to cheapo oil I dont think there is any bad oil around per se so use oil and change often at least every 5 to 10k but not 20, thats bonkers especially as the engine gets older.
I owned a garage (I personally worked as in I am a mechanic not just a business owner) and worked at vehicles for many years and bought all our bulk and retail oil from Shell. The commercial Diesel oil as was then refered to as s.h.p.d was long change diesel oil for commercials. Super High Performance Diesel
That is the type of oil I like. I like buying our oil at min in 20L drums as anyone looking for 20L of high spec diesel oil will get a much better deal than those fiddley trade counter jars.
The oil quality is given by the various numbers on the barrel/drum. The vehicle hand book usually gives these manufacture requirements and it is these that is important not the branding. If the oil spec is correct that is more important than the brand. Near all oils today are good.
The oil I use today is a Texaco diesel oil that the business I formerly owned now uses.
I dont ask what grade I just go fill myself a drum as required.
We use 10 40 in these Fiat's and Alfa's
If Mr Texaco has fulfilled the spec for their commercial requirements it'll be fine for me. I have been using Texaco now for about 18 years in everything from our standby generator, tractor, mower, camper and cars. Everything
Blocking the EGR will help no end with the oil getting loaded with carbon which all diesels do by their nature but an EGR just fills the sump with the stuff and as they get older it doesnt get better but worse.
It is not unknown since the advent of these valves for sump oil to get so laden with carbon that the oil pump cannot pick it up and the engine seizes. I have seen DI Transits and several LR engines with stuff in the sump akin to open case gear oil which is like almost runny grease simply because one of these rascals has not been closing properly.
I also do not like nor do I use these seriously light oil grades recommended and that may hurt the mpg a little but not much because our mpg is not much different to my former bosses mpg in the MJ
I am firmly of the opinion that the dreadful test procedure for emissions and mpg has led to everything being either emissions or mpg related and this includes this 0 30 and 5 30 stuff.
Our MJ has now done around 50k on 10 40 and everything is quiet. Oil is/was changed every 5k also by my former boss. I am very interested in how clean the oil remains now with no EGR though.
Older diesels were a little smokier by nature. These closed loop systems are very clean as in not smokey just as long as that d****n valve is kept closed and it'll be interesting to keep an eye on the visible state of the oil.
Once the valve was blocked off I changed the oil several times in quick succession until it was clean after running. If it stays clean between 5k changes then this will clearly show me that a modern diesel can be cleanish as far as engine oil goes anyhow.
This will be the first modern diesel that we have had around that has had the EGR blocked off and has no DPF but is not tuned or given a power upgrade so it'll be interesting to see as a mechanic
I might add that I have not been a fan of small diesels but they are here and and are a fact of life. We have a SX4 saloon which is kinda half Fiat and it is 1.6 petrol and returns well over 40mpg locally and has achieve over 50 on a long run provided you stay below 65 or 70.
Happy motoring everyone
 
My '05 MJ is also a Centenarian



Bought new in March '05 and so far has returned a fairly consistent 58mpg (measured at fill ups) with a low of 52 (ish) and a high of 62mpg. The bars to better fuel consumption seem to be: hills, wind (the weather variety, not my own) and temperature. I tend to change up most of the time at 2,000 rpm and cruise at around 65 mph, which equates to 2,500 rpm on the motorway.

To the best of my knowledge, problems have been largely related to wear items and are pretty much as follows:

1 X replacement anti-roll bar droplink set, due mainly to speed humps.
1 X pair of brake discs, due to (in my opinion) premature pad wear on one side of the 1st set. So around 80K + on the replacement pair.
3 X sets of pads including the 1st replacement set, so around 30K per set after that.
1 X set of rear brake shoes, approximately 60K and counting per set.
2 X offside front shock absorbers. The replacement was leaking at the next MOT, so just managed by days to claim on the warranty.
1 X EGR valve replaced.
1 X camchain replaced.
1 X N/S/F repeater bulb replaced due to losing its orange tint.
Problems yet to be rectified:

The tailgate lock is not functioning on the remote, but OK on the key. This is a common problem.
N/S/F doorlock only works on the internal lever.
The radio did its usual turning itself on in the middle of the night trick, but a new battery of the correct type seems to have cured that.
The engine is a bit flatter than it should be at low revs, so possible wastegate/turbo actuator arm problem there.
Perhaps more seriously, there is quite serious corrosion on the inside of the tailgate just behind the lock. Considering the drain holes look clear that might be one to look out for in the future for other owners.

At work we have a number of vehicles that I drive, but, notwithstanding that they are driven by quite a variety of different people, the Panda is far more reliable than those. They consist of: Transit vans, not bad but floor coverings, seat material, door locks and a few niggling issues let them down. Hyundai I30, doesn't tend to break down but although it's now covered 54,000 miles, the driver's seat was worn through at half that mileage, as was the finish of the steering wheel and the gearchange feels like it's all held together by vending machine cups. Good stereo, but, despite coming with A/C as standard, some surprising omissions too. No one-shot window operation and the rear wiper is not linked in any way to the fronts. We had an old Zafira with the 1.9 MJ engine which made it over 100K that was pretty reliable.....apart from shearing the bottom pulley. Its replacement now comes with the 1.7 CDTi unit which, while having a lot of power low-down, or low gearing, shows it's really an ancient lump that's just had Common Rail added to it. it doesn't have the traction control of the old one and it really shows. It'll spin its wheels off the line in 1st and 2nd in the dry as well as 3rd in the wet.

Compared with all those, I feel the Panda has been a great car. While not without compromises, a clutch and gearbox that doesn't have enough headroom to deal with the torque being one, I wouldn't hesitate to have another, although at the moment, I'm considering spending a bit on it in the new year rather than replacing it.

That way I can have the 156's battle scars sorted out and re-sprayed, as well as get some new shocks and suspension bushes, as well as get my old FJ1200 back on the road again.

What could possibly go wrong?????
 
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Hi The Beard, I dont think either I nor wifey ever change at 2000rpm. 3000 would be the normal I'd think.
When I'm driving I drive the **** out of it from I step in to I get out or so I'm told.
Tyr sending her on a little bit further in the gears for a tankful and see what the mpg does. I'd be curious.
Both me and my former boss both get/got 60 and above.

If you had one pad worn out long before the other then the pads are stuck in the carrier. The carrier needs removed and the stainless thingys removed and all the carrier surfaces where the stainless thingys rest needs to be cleaned back to the metal. This needs done every year whether the pads are worn out or not. Been doing this for near 40 years and it has served me well. never had a pad stuck but I've free'd up loads of others

The anti roll bar links fall out of near every car. The Panda is no different.

Until I came on here I didnt even know the tailgate had a handle/switch thingy. Key works fine for me too.

Boy you got a lot of plans. I wouldnt dare male so many. I'd fall down at the first hurdle nothing surer

Dee
 
My '05 MJ is also a Centenarian


:WooHoo: you've finally done it! Mine seems to be romping through the miles even faster since he hit the 100K mark. That was only May and I'm now nearing 108K already! I'm doing a countdown to 111111 now.
 
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:WooHoo: you've finally done it! Mine seems to be romping through the miles even faster since he hit the 100K mark. That was only May and I'm now nearing 108K already! I'm doing a countdown to 111111 now.
Watch it mush, remember nobody likes a smarta**e. That's not to say your a**e isn't smart it's just that.....er.....all complaints about inappropriate sexual references to the Panda Moderator who is.....er.....ME! Hah!
 
Watch it mush, remember nobody likes a smarta**e. That's not to say your a**e isn't smart it's just that.....er.....all complaints about inappropriate sexual references to the Panda Moderator who is.....er.....ME! Hah!

:nerner:
 
Had to go take the daughter home from work this eve
Wifey drove on way there and seldom came below 2000rpm except in town
I drove back and would say similar but I was conscious that I was paying attention. In and around town 2000/2500 rpm but once out of town it seems we are getting 2000rpm after the change so often it 3000 or thereabouts before change.
Computer still says 63mpg and every time I check the ltrs against the miles the computer is within 1 or 1.5mpg of the pump calculation.
I would not try and tell anyone how to drive but by what I have experience of plus various posts here about the MJ it seems that those who chase them on as such may get better mpg
It'd be interesting to hear especially from these high milers how they drive V mpg
 
Ive had my 08 MJ remapped by Angel Tune and now it has bags of torque right through the rev range. Gives bigger cars a bit of a fright at traffic lghts too. Fuel consumption seems a bit better with 72 or 73 mpg normal on a motorway run. Id recommend it.

More power AND better economy ?
 
Its not uncommon in modern diesels to have an increase in power within reason and an increase in economy
 
Had to go take the daughter home from work this eve
Wifey drove on way there and seldom came below 2000rpm except in town
I drove back and would say similar but I was conscious that I was paying attention. In and around town 2000/2500 rpm but once out of town it seems we are getting 2000rpm after the change so often it 3000 or thereabouts before change.
Computer still says 63mpg and every time I check the ltrs against the miles the computer is within 1 or 1.5mpg of the pump calculation.
I would not try and tell anyone how to drive but by what I have experience of plus various posts here about the MJ it seems that those who chase them on as such may get better mpg
It'd be interesting to hear especially from these high milers how they drive V mpg
Most modern cars, especially diesels, seem to develop maximum torque at between 1,800 and 2,500 rpm. The MJs develop it at 1,800. On that basis I tend to change up at 2,000 revs. With the exception of the 156, changing gear at 2,000 rpm means a change up speed of 10, 20, 30 and 40 mph. This has also been the case in 1.25 Fiestas and the 1.6 petrol Focus. It's also the same on several different cars I've driven, but especially diesels including 1.9 and 1.7 diesel Zafiras that we have at work and a 1.6 Focus CDTi.

2K revs also is enough to keep in touch with traffic in most urban situations. The only down side with that though, appears to be an increase in the likelihood of the EGR valve clogging up. Diesels also seem to take longer to warm up than their petrol engined bretheren so you need to be a little careful anyway when revving it higher. My commute is about 13 miles each way and, apart from half a mile at the beginning, and the same at the end, is all motorway so I really don't get much chance to give it an "Italian de-coke" when the engine is warm.
 
More power AND better economy ?
One problem with that is that the standard engine produces 145 nm of torque. There's a reason for that, the gearbox is only rated to 150nm. The one really annoying problem I've had with my MJ since new is its tendency to slip the clutch if pushing on a bit in 3rd. Doesn't do it in any other gear.
 
Hello Mr Beard,
Neither of your posts answer my question that was a civil and sensible question

I did not ask when or where an MJ engine made torque
I did not ask how much power an MJ gearbox was designed to take
I did not ask/suggest/comment on anything relating to an increase in torque

Many of us never had a slipping clutch problem despite power being raised it seems although I did not ask about a slipping clutch

Some of us at least get over 60mpg repeatedly and for me this is despite sending the car on as such

What I did ask was
Are there and drivers of these MJ Panda's who dont hold back on the ponies but get over 60mpg on an ongoing or repeated basis

And if there are driver of MJ Panda's who try to drive economically and keep the revs down perhaps you try a different approach and see what happens to the mpg
If however you are not willing to change your ways that is your choice and therefore your results which will not change are of no interest to me.

Happy New Year to all
Dee
 
On mine it reads regularly average for a tank full. 51mph. Fuel average for trip 62mpg. Checked myself miles verses fuel put back in tank 53mpg
 
Thanks notsmartcars.
Your average mph is way higher than ours. We have no fast roads in any quantity nearby

Keep them coming
 
On mine it reads regularly average for a tank full. 51mph. Fuel average for trip 62mpg. Checked myself miles verses fuel put back in tank 53mpg

Such a difference to mine. With me in city traffic most of the time, my average speed on a tank of fuel rarely gets much above 20!
 
Yes Smurf. 52mph is a pretty fast average speed and at 52 I dont doubt the sub 60mpg they are getting.
 
Yes Smurf. 52mph is a pretty fast average speed and at 52 I dont doubt the sub 60mpg they are getting.

Lol I filled up this morning and then got stuck in traffic. I always reset each fill up and it's now reading an extra slow 8mph.
 
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