Hi!
I try to be as brief as I can be but there are a lot of details.
I’m writing cause I have read tons of threads related to ‘Car security failure - Loose connection’ in terms of 1.6 engined Stilos.
Now I got the same with my 1.2 petrol but some details are different from those in other threads.
[ FACTS ]
- I have been owning the Stilo for two weeks now and have no diagnostics tool at all, so sorting out what’s happening is quite challenging.
- It all started with a ticking noise coming from my cluster when the car was turned off and no key in the ignition switch.
- I thought it could be a good idea to clean the fuse box under the hood (has nothing to do with it but this action solved tons of problems on my Astra H GTC, so - what can go wrong - I decided to do so).
- I detached the negative cable from the battery and the red power supply from the fuse box. I dismounted and cleaned the box with a contact cleaner spray then let it dry for hours under the sun. I took photos of every phase and put everything back in the same order.
- After this, the car displays ‘Car security failure - Loose connection’, padlock symbol, yellow triangle, engine control light not showing at all anymore, fuel pump does not start in MAR, it cranks but does not start.
[ WHAT I DID TRYING TO SORT THINGS OUT BUT THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS ]
- I bought an instrument cluster, an engine bay fuse box, a BCM, an ECU, a key and a cabin fuse box from a breaker. I also got a half cable harness that has been cut before the point it runs into the cabin from the engine bay so I could measure and compare it to mine.
- I checked the other key without the remote controls.
- I removed the transponder and put them closer to the immo ring.
- I checked the voltage on the immo ring, it was about 3-4 V.
- I checked the intertia switch, it is fine.
- I cleaned all the ground connections.
- I cleaned everything around the positive and negative connectors of the battery.
- I swapped the fuse boxes with the ‘new’ ones.
- I put a meter to some points and I can confirm that
- T9 and T10 relays are not triggered; there is no power to fuel pump;
- there is no broken wire between the pin 87 of the T10 relay and the pump, it shows a continuous contact even through the D4;
- pin 85 of T9 relay shows about 3-4 V of voltage on MAR;
- pin 85 of T10 relay shows about 0,08 V voltage on MAR;
- I cannot measure a ground connection on the pin 86 of the T9 and T10 relay;
- there is no broken wire between the pin 87 of the T9 and T10 relays and the blue connector of the ECU (I am bad in knowing what pin numbers are exactly called).
- I cannot proceed the emergency start process because I have no engine light.
[ WHAT I SUPPOSE ]
- As replacing the fuse boxes to the ones from the breaker did not solve the problem and I did nothing else but cleaning the engine bay fuse box, I suppose that there were some old wires around there that broke when I disconnected and moved them but cannot find it.
- Having no engine light, neither before the triangle appears nor after it, I suppose that the ECU is not receiving power.
- My conclusion is the same after not having ground on the 86s (these are CAN triggered ground as far as I know).
[ QUESTIONS ]
- Which wire should I examine?
- What happens if I swap all the stuff (ECU, BCM, key transponder, instrument cluster) from the other car? (It was an 5D with no AC, mine is a 3D with manual AC everything else is the same.)
- Should I keep the battery connected or remove it, in case there is a short circuit?
Thank you
I try to be as brief as I can be but there are a lot of details.
I’m writing cause I have read tons of threads related to ‘Car security failure - Loose connection’ in terms of 1.6 engined Stilos.
Now I got the same with my 1.2 petrol but some details are different from those in other threads.
[ FACTS ]
- I have been owning the Stilo for two weeks now and have no diagnostics tool at all, so sorting out what’s happening is quite challenging.
- It all started with a ticking noise coming from my cluster when the car was turned off and no key in the ignition switch.
- I thought it could be a good idea to clean the fuse box under the hood (has nothing to do with it but this action solved tons of problems on my Astra H GTC, so - what can go wrong - I decided to do so).
- I detached the negative cable from the battery and the red power supply from the fuse box. I dismounted and cleaned the box with a contact cleaner spray then let it dry for hours under the sun. I took photos of every phase and put everything back in the same order.
- After this, the car displays ‘Car security failure - Loose connection’, padlock symbol, yellow triangle, engine control light not showing at all anymore, fuel pump does not start in MAR, it cranks but does not start.
[ WHAT I DID TRYING TO SORT THINGS OUT BUT THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS ]
- I bought an instrument cluster, an engine bay fuse box, a BCM, an ECU, a key and a cabin fuse box from a breaker. I also got a half cable harness that has been cut before the point it runs into the cabin from the engine bay so I could measure and compare it to mine.
- I checked the other key without the remote controls.
- I removed the transponder and put them closer to the immo ring.
- I checked the voltage on the immo ring, it was about 3-4 V.
- I checked the intertia switch, it is fine.
- I cleaned all the ground connections.
- I cleaned everything around the positive and negative connectors of the battery.
- I swapped the fuse boxes with the ‘new’ ones.
- I put a meter to some points and I can confirm that
- T9 and T10 relays are not triggered; there is no power to fuel pump;
- there is no broken wire between the pin 87 of the T10 relay and the pump, it shows a continuous contact even through the D4;
- pin 85 of T9 relay shows about 3-4 V of voltage on MAR;
- pin 85 of T10 relay shows about 0,08 V voltage on MAR;
- I cannot measure a ground connection on the pin 86 of the T9 and T10 relay;
- there is no broken wire between the pin 87 of the T9 and T10 relays and the blue connector of the ECU (I am bad in knowing what pin numbers are exactly called).
- I cannot proceed the emergency start process because I have no engine light.
[ WHAT I SUPPOSE ]
- As replacing the fuse boxes to the ones from the breaker did not solve the problem and I did nothing else but cleaning the engine bay fuse box, I suppose that there were some old wires around there that broke when I disconnected and moved them but cannot find it.
- Having no engine light, neither before the triangle appears nor after it, I suppose that the ECU is not receiving power.
- My conclusion is the same after not having ground on the 86s (these are CAN triggered ground as far as I know).
[ QUESTIONS ]
- Which wire should I examine?
- What happens if I swap all the stuff (ECU, BCM, key transponder, instrument cluster) from the other car? (It was an 5D with no AC, mine is a 3D with manual AC everything else is the same.)
- Should I keep the battery connected or remove it, in case there is a short circuit?
Thank you
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