Technical 1.1 misfire/loss of power.

[Nickhmh]

I started to experience the 1.1 misfire a while ago. I've read all the relevant posts on here.
I've opened the loom and checked the wires. I can't replicate the issue.
I had some fairly new coil packs so fitted them.
Plugs have less than 6K and look fine.
Spoke to two fiat dealers who where basically totally uninterested! Both said they had never heard of the issues!
Spoke to an excellent local garage who told me he'd had a few in and to check the earth connections and the map sensor. But he did think that the ecu was dieing.I did all this today. Earths all look OK so cleaned them with electric contact cleaner.
What he did say was if other parts of the system are dieing then it can kill the 'drive system' in the ecu.
The guy has over 35 years of experience and runs a very good garage and offers full diagnosis,mapping and engine tuning. So I trust him. (I used to supply him with car parts years ago)
Has anyone else had experience like mine? 59 Fiat Panda 1.1 eco active 109K miles and full service history. I'm the second owner and done the 9K since March. Love the car and want to keep it. A RE con Ecu will cost me 500 including a hire car. I've been offered a Nissan micra 03 for 600...I'd rather have my Panda!!
Any thoughts good people..
Has anyone used these RE con ECUs and had long time results? They do have a lifetime warranty. I'm very tempted.

 

[koalar]

When does it misfire?


Idle
Load
Coasting
Cold
Hot
And so on

Does the engine light come on

 

[09 johno]

Try strapping the 2 plugs on top of the ECU down with long tie wraps.
I found that the socket/pin holder in the top of the ECU had worked loose on my 1.1 Eco Panda so the pins and sockets were not holding together tight enough. Proved by rocking the black plastic holder on top of the ECU with the engine running
I disconnected the battery, removed the plugs, sprayed both sides with contact cleaner, then reattached the plugs and strapped them down with said tie-wraps.
My Panda's engine has been running perfectly ever since.

 

[Nickhmh]

When does it misfire?


Idle
Load
Coasting
Cold
Hot
And so on

Does the engine light come on

All except at idle. No eml or fault codes.
Took her out today. Did about 40 miles including very rough A road around town and back on decent main A road.
Running like a dream! In fact she's never run as smoothly as today since I got her.

 

[Nickhmh]

Try strapping the 2 plugs on top of the ECU down with long tie wraps.
I found that the socket/pin holder in the top of the ECU had worked loose on my 1.1 Eco Panda so the pins and sockets were not holding together tight enough. Proved by rocking the black plastic holder on top of the ECU with the engine running
I disconnected the battery, removed the plugs, sprayed both sides with contact cleaner, then reattached the plugs and strapped them down with said tie-wraps.
My Panda's engine has been running perfectly ever since.

I can wiggle..push..pull ecu on these connections and nothing happens.
After doing the earth connection s and cleaning the map sensor also contact cleaner on ecu plugs...she's running amazing today! Like a new car
I don't expect it to last...but fingers crossed etc...

 

[koalar]

happy days

I can wiggle..push..pull ecu on these connections and nothing happens.
After doing the earth connection s and cleaning the map sensor also contact cleaner on ecu plugs...she's running amazing today! Like a new car
I don't expect it to last...but fingers crossed etc...

 

[chrystyan21]

Hello. I have a Fiat Panda since 2008, 1.1 engine, in the UK if for a while the LED was on, check the engine and I haven't given importance but for some time it is only lit, and the car does not accelerate normally and when it is on the spot trembling from all joints plus increased gasoline consumption. I was at the service I changed everything on it, injectors, electric coils, cables but the problem persists. I tried to reset the ECU but nothing, it works ok for 30-40 minutes then it goes crazy. What do you think it could be? I do not mind them at all and as if I would not throw away to change ECU only as the last option. I also attach the picture from the tester as it can help and thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Goudrons]

Have a look at thisand the video in the link

Okay, finally FINALLY sorted it (fingers crossed!) Stripped the sheath on the wiring loom at the ECU connector right back and started waggling wires here, there and everywhere. When I waggled a yellow-and-red one (which goes to Ignition Coil B - clue!) then lo and behold the engine would start running rough ie not on all cylinders. Made a video, here:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KA4zU6q6XR8

Just where that wire emerges from the plastic connector housing, there seemed to be a break in the stranded wire, I'm presuming. So I cut out a 4 inch section of wire, soldered in a new section and heatshrinked some insulation. Fault no longer apparent! I've still to wrap it all back up and fit the connector backshell but I'm pretty sure that was it. So, to summarise:

Initially, intermittent misfire, EML on, fault codes P0352 (Primary/secondary ignition coil B) and P0202 (Injector cylinder 2. A red herring though). Fault codes reset, only P0352 then apparent. Swapped coil packs around, ht leads around, injectors around - fault stayed the same. Cleaned earth tags, battery terminals, still the same. Replaced spark plugs, fault gone! EML reset and stayed off - for 3 months. Spark plugs, although needing doing, was another red herring. Wiring loom was probably disturbed, 'making' the contact in the rogue wire. Fast forward 3 months to last couple of posts. EML back on, code P0352, misfire apparent and getting worse. Logic dictates it's almost certainly the wiring, or the ECU. Determined effort finally pays dividends!

It's very common the 1.1 suffers this fault.
Lots of posts if you search, like https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/420817-injector-problem-code-p0202-cyl-2-injector-2.html?p=4119464

 

[DaveMcT]

Is there a particular colour wire that cracks or can it be any of them? There's a heck of a lot to splice individually. That said, its still cheaper and than a new ECU only to find that was not the fault.

After doing the repair, it is probably worth using some cable bundle spiral under the wrapping tape to support the bundle.

 

[Goudrons]

The Yellow and Red one appears to be the Ignition Coil B wire.

Okay, finally FINALLY sorted it (fingers crossed!) Stripped the sheath on the wiring loom at the ECU connector right back and started waggling wires here, there and everywhere. When I waggled a yellow-and-red one (which goes to Ignition Coil B - clue!) then lo and behold the engine would start running rough ie not on all cylinders.

 

[DaveMcT]

Solder joined wires can often crack where the solder wicks along the wire strands so the joint must be well supported. Using similar gauge wire, you can twist about 10mm of the wire ends together and fold alongside the insulation. Heat shrink a sleeve over the bare wires stops them pulling apart.

I did this once as a temporary fix. At least a year later, I got around to properly sorting it, to find the repair was still as good as new. It must be done with heat shrink sleeve but it's a virtually permanent option. Ideal when you can't get in with a soldering iron.