I've just been contributing to Baglady's leaky gear selector thread (500) and it's made me think about "stiff, solid, sticky" - call it what you like - antiseize/corrosion protection coating.

I had a quick recce under Becky's rear end last night in preparation for all the "stuff" - brakes and rear axle corrosion - I'll soon be tackling. Considering the brakes, I think I'm going to just take the flexes off both sides and renew them and pipes and cylinders etc so the hydraulics will be new from the flexes back, flexes included. Mainly I've decided on this because the metal pipes front to rear, and their tube nuts where they go into the flexes, look not too bad but the tube nuts coming out of the flexes and the tube nuts on the cylinders are pretty crusty as is the pipework around them. So I'm hoping the front to rear pipe tube nuts will unscrew from the flexes - might have to wind the flexes off the nuts though? On reassembly the new pipes will be Kunifer but the front to rear pipes and their tube nuts will be original. Historically I'd have slaistered some Copaslip around the tube nuts and original pipe work but Copper based antiseize has somewhat fallen from favour of late and I was just wondering what you guys/girls would use for this?

Also, If the rear most of the two brake cylinder nuts refuse to undo with an open ender, (we're talking about a 2010 169 here so you can't get a ring key or socket on the head of that rearmost bolt) what do you recommend. I see the "official" recommendation is to undo the Allen screws which hold the back plate to the hub so you can then get a small socket on it, but I'm worried in case they - the Allen screws holding the back plate to the hub - shear. My friendly wee local indy (Harrisons) says that's sensible and what they do is put a cutting disc in an angle grinder and carefully cut away the casting around the rear bolt to leave one side of it exposed which, if you don't damage the threads will usually then unscrew. It also has the advantage that you can apply heat and releasing oil directly to the exposed threads if you need to. So, opinions please, what would you do?

I've been using this quite thick and has a brush for applying it all good so far can't speak what's it's like long term as I've only had it a year or so




https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw1RCvSGX53tYGK_tu6SKfod&cshid=1619192950117

When I worked in the oil industry I came across some anti seize grease, a fitter told me this was the stuff to use. Seemly after using this grease you could come back 20 years later and still be able to undo fixings. Unfortunately there is little markings on the tin, so this is useless information really, however I will try and find out.

It’s called easy run 100. It’s used for a number of things along with anti seize.

jimboy said:

When I worked in the oil industry I came across some anti seize grease, a fitter told me this was the stuff to use. Seemly after using this grease you could come back 20 years later and still be able to undo fixings. Unfortunately there is little markings on the tin, so this is useless information really, however I will try and find out.

It’s called easy run 100. It’s used for a number of things along with anti seize.

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Well my goodness me, is this the stuff Jim? If so I must look into it further as it's made by my favourite lubricant manufacturer - Fuchs! https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/product/product/15160-easyrun-100/

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Well my goodness me, is this the stuff Jim? If so I must look into it further as it's made by my favourite lubricant manufacturer - Fuchs! https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/product/product/15160-easyrun-100/

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Aye Jock that’s the stuff. Back in the late 80’s when I was a lot younger, I really was on a learning curve. This older fitter was a mass of information indeed, he told me this was the grease to use. Now that was some time ago Jock, there may be other stuff out there. I’ve used it on numerous occasions, works fine for me.

To add a little extra to this discussion there are two points:

1) What is the best lubricant / ease / penetrating fluid to hopefully free up a corroded / jammed joint

2) What is the best lubricant/grease to protect a joint/nut/bolt/etc.

If I focus on 2) then my choice is black moly grease. This is waterproof and high temperature tolerant/resistant.

I use black moly on just about any job. I also use it in preference to copper/copper slip grease on most brake jobs. Black Moly is far more water resistance / wash off tolerant than copper slip over time. Black moly grease remains fluid and flexible compared to copper slip which eventually dries out and eventually shows signs of dehydration and cracking.

I would add that with two cars and 12,000 miles of arduous track use that black moly grease over copper slip has never caused an issue. (if used correctly)

An interesting point is that I used to use (many many years ago) copper slip on alloy wheel to hub interfaces and had issues at/during my service sessions with stuck/bound wheels. I then changed to black moly / black high temp CV grease and since then have never had such an issue.

Please note! Copper slip grease does have some advantages, eg extremely high temp exhaust applications but one does have to appreciate that copper slip is not very moisture/water resistant compared to high temp moly grease.

Thanks very much for that. My interest here is in long term protection for the tube nuts/brake pipe (metal) after assembly - in this case especially the end of the original front to rear pipe. That's two recommendations for a moly based product now. I'll definitely be giving this a go. I have to admit to using copper grease on wheel/hub interfaces and I've not so far had a problem but I have noticed how it can dry out over time. I've also noticed this on brakes at annual service time.

I guess also that the moly won't have the potential for electrolytic (dissimilar metals) corrosion that might be experienced with the Copper product? - although I've not noticed this to be a problem in past use.

Well just for a little update I coated the pinch bolts around 18 month ago approx they are still very well coated even now the stuff has dried into a hard paint like coating