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Technical Selespeed clutch calibration finishes too quickly

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Technical Selespeed clutch calibration finishes too quickly

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BenjaminKrebs

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Hey guys!

I've been searching the forum for selespeed calibration threads but none of them seem to answer my question.

I've had my 5d Stilo Abarth Selespeed for 4 months now and I love it, but the gear changes have been a bit jerky, so i bough an ELM cable and the multiecuscan software and did the clutch calibration procedure.

I checked that all the requirements for the test was met and executed it, but when I turned the car on (step 2) the software said completed with code "00", even though 2 steps remained.

So my question is: did it do it correctly? :)

The changes feels A LOT better and i noticed that "clutch plate travel" went from ~7mm to ~17mm.

Thanks in for a nice forum, it have help me a lot so far! (y)
 
Hi m8 I want to calibrate mine were did u by the stuff to do it or were do u live so u could do mine u would pay
 
Hey Grant,

I just bought an ELM327 interface from eBay and the software from multiecuscan.net .

I'm from Denmark so that might be a pretty long drive for you ;)
 
BenjaminKrebs said:
Nobody knows about this? :eek:
Click to expand...

I was hoping someone might offer advice, as I've had problems with executing the clutch calibration myself!

Basically, the part you have done (with 'completed OK'/result 00) is just the first part. The engine then has to be started, 2nd gear engaged, and the car driven off with about halfway-pressed accelerator, then stopped after 400 metres.

That's the theory - in practice, there is nothing to say whether this has been successful - and for those 400 metres, do you accelerate up through the gears, or maintain a constant speed in 2nd gear, or what else?

It sounds like you have been more successful than me, since your clutch parameters have changed. I find that otherwise a good week or two of driving is necessary to get the clutch to slowly adjust itself.

-Alex
 
alexGS said:
I was hoping someone might offer advice, as I've had problems with executing the clutch calibration myself!

Basically, the part you have done (with 'completed OK'/result 00) is just the first part. The engine then has to be started, 2nd gear engaged, and the car driven off with about halfway-pressed accelerator, then stopped after 400 metres.

That's the theory - in practice, there is nothing to say whether this has been successful - and for those 400 metres, do you accelerate up through the gears, or maintain a constant speed in 2nd gear, or what else?

It sounds like you have been more successful than me, since your clutch parameters have changed. I find that otherwise a good week or two of driving is necessary to get the clutch to slowly adjust itself.

-Alex
Click to expand...

A shame that you have had just as much luck as me :/

Hmm, in my version of MultiEcuScan the procedure doesn't include driving at all. The procedure i follow is:
1. Engine off, press execute
2. Turn engine on
3. wait ~10 sec
4. Turn key to MAR

The only gearbox procedure I can find that includes driving is recalculation of the degredation index.

I've read somewhere that the cause may be that I'm using an ELM interface and not a VAG, because ELM has a tendency to turn off because of the voltage drop from starting the engine. What interface are you using?
 
BenjaminKrebs said:
The only gearbox procedure I can find that includes driving is recalculation of the degredation index.
Click to expand...

Ah yes - that is what I was trying to do - sorry for the confusion.
After replacing the clutch, my degradation index still read 12,940. The car did not drive smoothly - actually, it was a lot worse than before.

I wanted to recalibrate/reset the clutch degradation index but I couldn't get anything to happen even after following that driving process many times. But eventually, the index number adjusted itself steadily downward over many weeks. I think it's at about 5,500 now and working beautifully.

I've read somewhere that the cause may be that I'm using an ELM interface and not a VAG, because ELM has a tendency to turn off because of the voltage drop from starting the engine. What interface are you using?
Click to expand...

It's possible - I used an ELM interface too.

-Alex
 
Last edited:
All you need to do is the service end of line calibration. Trust me on this. Forget all of the other options. End of line calibration does EVERYTHING

If the gears are still jerky (you have to define how much jerky they are, this is a single clutch system it will always be somewhat jerky), you may be in the need of replacing the clutch wheel bearing sometime soon.


I wish I knew this 3 years ago but live and learn.

cheers


Here's the info I got from selespeed.de support engineer
Never runs the clutch calibration or EV0 Test... this can kill the Concentric Slave Cylinder...

Only run the EOL Service!!!!

Beste Grüße

Belli (Dirk Bellmann)
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Yes, but as I described, the Clutch Degradation Index needs to be reset somehow, and the EOL calibration does not do this. The jerky clutch operation (more than usual) is because the clutch parameters are wrong.

The good news is that at least it sorts itself out given enough driving. Mine works really well now.

-Alex
 
spyshagg said:
All you need to do is the service end of line calibration. Trust me on this. Forget all of the other options. End of line calibration does EVERYTHING

If the gears are still jerky (you have to define how much jerky they are, this is a single clutch system it will always be somewhat jerky), you may be in the need of replacing the clutch wheel bearing sometime soon.


I wish I knew this 3 years ago but live and learn.

cheers


Here's the info I got from selespeed.de support engineer
Click to expand...

Okay, I didn't run that one because it said only to run it if I had replaced something, and I haven't.

It also says that it could be a good idea to bleed the system before running EOL, should I do that then?
 
EOL does the bleeding at the begining.

I replaced the entire clutch kit and without any calibration the car was undrivable (because it had the old values stored). Then I only did the EOL as the german engineer told me to do and it worked. The car was butter smooth. Thats proof EOL does everything needed despite what FES say.
 
Last edited:
Okay,

so I did the EOL procedure and it worked beautifully! It didn't bleed the clutch, but it ran through all the gears and made some terrible sounds, but the changes are now smoother than ever.
Especially when downshifting under braking it had a tendency to hit the gears very hard which it doesn't do now.

Thank you guys for all your help :)
 
I think the initial sounds you hear (before the horrible ones begin) is the bleeding. The "horrible" ones are just supposed to sound like that. But This procedure is very hard on the actual gearbox so don't do it every other month.

It is in my experience that if after the EOL the pick-up and gear change remain cluncky, then you need to start thinking about replacing the clutch wheel bearing or the entire clutch kit (after you rule out 5 other factors: Battery health, Maf, coils, sparks and a clean throttle body).

After the EOL, the pick-up must be smoooooth as butter and the gear changes seamless (specially when shifting down, because when shifting upwards the selespeed isn't always perfect)
 
It is smooth as silk in the changes but if you by cluncky mean sounds coming from it I can definitely hear some of the changes. The down shift, when braking, the shift from 2nd to 1st even yanks the car so much I can feel it. But this only happens when in auto, when in manual nothing funky is going on.

Anyway I don't think I will do further about it, the car has only done 80.000km so it's probably nothing :)
 
clunky as in not smooth :)

2nd to 1st or 1st to 2nd is where I find selespeed really disappointing in some situations.


Enjoy your smooth selespeed :) I only needed changing the clutch kit around 110.000 km
 
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