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Technical 2000 Punto 1.2 8v Not Running Properly

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Technical 2000 Punto 1.2 8v Not Running Properly

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C20 YOB

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Hi there, I've got a 2000 punto 1.2 8v injection, just did the head gasket on it and now it's not running right.

Symptoms are,

Runs very sluggish, especially when at low revs and will cut out if revs aren't kept up when taking off.
Starts fine and will tick over no problem.
There is a lot of lag at low revs and is generally under powered.

I thought it may be fuel as it was sitting a while with an almost empty tank and I put some dodgy fuel in it, its now got proper fuel in it but is still running crap.

I had the timing checked on it by a delphi diagnostics kit and it is reading 10deg BTDC.

Is 10 deg BTDC right?

If not what's wrong with it?

Duncan
 
If there was no power loss / sluggishness before the cambelt was done, the Cam timing may be out, thats different to ignition timing, 1 or 2 teeth out will be enough to make your car mis-behave that way.
 
I did the timing again last night, it was out by around 2 teeth. The cars running better but not quite right.

Think it must still be out.

Will try again tonight n see what happens.
 
Hi, still not quite sorted this problem.

I did the timing which I'm quite happy with (either bang on or 1 tooth out) as the car is running alot better. Still not right tho.

So, did a compression test and came back with the following figures,

1= 85psi
2= 95psi
3= 100psi
4= 95psi

These are low figures, if my timing is still out by a tooth will it be causing this or is my bottom end needing rebuilt?

Bearing in mind, Iv just put a new head gasket on with a skimmed head.

Cheers

Duncan
 
When cranking with plug leads taken off, always disconnect the coil driver leads(s) to avoid damaging the ECU. Some cope better than others but its always good practice.

Those compression figures look VERY low. It must be really using oil.
 
One tooth out is not going to give proper compression. Would eliminate this first. Should be white lines on the back of the belt at the back of a tooth for the cam end and at a groove for the crank end. Even on an old belt they are generally visible. If not get a look at a new one and count the teeth.
 
The tdc should be set by the pointer in the top of the clutch housing using a torch and mirror, then you dont make mistakes. Also you can do it all without getting the front wheel off etc.
Tony.
 
fingers99 said:
The figures are very low. Did you do the test with throttle fully open?

Do a dry and wet test to try and determine where the issue is. (If the wet test is substantially better than the dry test, points to rings/pistons/bore wear, if not, points to valves.)
Click to expand...

No. I had the throttle closed. Is it the norm to a compression test at full throttle?

It was a dry test, will do a wet one n see how I get on.

Cheers

Duncan
 
WhiteSei said:
When cranking with plug leads taken off, always disconnect the coil driver leads(s) to avoid damaging the ECU. Some cope better than others but its always good practice.

Those compression figures look VERY low. It must be really using oil.
Click to expand...


I see, I'll be sure to take the driver leads off.

Yeah it is using oil, not sure how bad yet, as iv only filled it once.

cheers

duncan
 
reddy4bed said:
The tdc should be set by the pointer in the top of the clutch housing using a torch and mirror, then you dont make mistakes. Also you can do it all without getting the front wheel off etc.
Tony.
Click to expand...


Not getting ya on this one mate???
 
Brendan W said:
One tooth out is not going to give proper compression. Would eliminate this first. Should be white lines on the back of the belt at the back of a tooth for the cam end and at a groove for the crank end. Even on an old belt they are generally visible. If not get a look at a new one and count the teeth.
Click to expand...


When your doing the timing should the white line be matched up with the crank and cam marks???
 
C20 YOB said:
When your doing the timing should the white line be matched up with the crank and cam marks???
Click to expand...

Yes.The notch on the cam is at a gap between two teeth so the line on the belt is at a belt tooth. The crank notch is at a tooth so the line on the belt is at a gap between two belt teeth. Line the crank and cam up as in Dave's guide and use the belt marks to be sure. Using the marks on the flywheel is an option but have never needed to use it.
Engines with good matching marks on the head and block don't need the belt marks but the crank position for the Punto 1.2 8v is a bit vague at the belt end. The cam position is a sweet spot between the valve springs so it won't move when you unload the tensioner and is fairly easy to get right - nine o'clock. The crank is ten o'clockish so you need either to mark a known good belt coming off and transfer the marks to a new one or use premarked belts.
 
Last edited:
C20 YOB said:
Not getting ya on this one mate???
Click to expand...

What dont you get? The crank TDC pointer is visible thro the hole in top of clutch bellhousing and gives accurate marks. You only need to remove the plastic cambelt cover at top of engine to access tensioner. Simples!
Tony.
 
Don't be surprised when you open up that the belt lines are no longer at the pulley marks when you line it all up. The sprocket teeth are prime numbers so the belt 'drifts' around so the same teeth are not dropping on the same part of the belt all the time.
 
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