hello guys,
I'm trying to have my clutch changed.
I've removed battery, battery trail, hoses and air filters, earth/ground cable, clutch slave cylinder;


But now:
1) gear ball joints:
how to detach them? Can I a flat screwdriver to pop them up? The tiny one seems a bit fragile....
After that, I have to remove the mechanism where the ball joints were fixed? It seems a bit bulky....
(photo1)




2) exaust manifold/pipe
Is it necessary to remove the exaust manifold and the turbocharger, or can I only remove the exaust pipe section that pass under the sump?


3) how to detach this one?
(by the way, what is it?)
(photo2)


5) is it necessary to spill out the transmission oil or can I avoid that?


6) Number of bolts to remove
how many and where are they?
Under the bell housing, front side: 18mm bolt and 13mm bolt; rear side: 19mm long bolt (dogbone) and a 19mm nut.
Above the bell housing, front side: 19mm bolt (under that thing at point 3); rear side: I have no idea, perhaps will I find something after removing the starter motor?


7) distance from sump to ground
How many cm I have to jack up the car to be sure that the gearbox can slide out?


Thanks in advance.

Tbh ive never done the diesel box

The gear linkage ball joints usually tease iff with a screw driver
I use a spanner tbh as it buts pressure over a bigger area


Draining gearbox oil isnt a bad idea, it allows the drive shaft cups to be pulled out without issue


Ziggy

Usually use long nosed pliers to prize the gear linkage apart. Yes, drain the gear oil in to a bucket before you dismantle it, or else you'll have a stinking oil shower when you take the d shafts out. Just put a jack with a little block of wood on it, under your sump and just adjust the height of it as necessary. Or are you doing the job on a ramp? What ever you're using don't use a 4 poster. If you can, do it on a 2 poster. And in that case use a gearbox jack if you have one, otherwise you're gonna have a hell of a fight. If you're a little in confident in doing this job, or you don't have anyone to help you, just take it to a garage. I'm not trying to be funny or rude
But I've come to jobs where someone's tried doing the clutch before, and haven't been able to put it back together. It paid very well, when I put it back together haha.
Ben


Blower of many head gaskets

I see people are talking about pulling the drive shafts out of the gear box. Is this a different gear box to the one on the petrol cars where nearly everybody it talking about undoing the gaitor and splitting there and leaving the ends of the drive shafts inside the gearbox?

judderbar said:

I see people are talking about pulling the drive shafts out of the gear box. Is this a different gear box to the one on the petrol cars where nearly everybody it talking about undoing the gaitor and splitting there and leaving the ends of the drive shafts inside the gearbox?

Click to expand...

On my diesel the drive shafts unbolt so no need to pull anything out of the gear box an no pouring of gearbox oil

@AndyRKett

On my diesel the drive shafts unbolt so no need to pull anything out of the gear box an no pouring of gearbox oil

Click to expand...

I've attached a photo: is it mine like yours, so to detach the drive shaft I can simply unscrew the allen bolts?
(photo 1)

@Straughany
To lift the car I'm using solid high density concrete blocks with grooved wood blocks on top.
This is why I've asked how many I have to jack up the car (I still need it).
To slide out the bell housing/gearbox I want to use a jack with a DIY tilting device bolted to it.



*******

THE BIG PROBLEM
I'm using here phrases from jtdEdd guide to represent the problem:

NOTE- THE ENGINE / GEARBOX MUST BE REMOVED AS ONE UNIT ESPECIALLY HGT / JTD MODELS AS TO PREVENT TORQUE STEER AND TO KEEP BOTH DRIVESHAFTS EQUAL WEIGHT / LENGTH THERE IS A CARRIER SHAFT AT THE INBOARD END OF THE GEARBOX TAKING POWER TO THE OFFSIDE DRIVE SHAFT. THIS SHAFT IS BOLTED TO THE REAR OF THE CYLINDER BLOCK VIA A BRACKET.

Click to expand...

ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET TO WITHOUT REMOVING THE ENGINE FIRST. MAKING GEARBOX REMOVAL A BIT MORE DIFFICULT THAN THE USUAL BOLTS AROUND THE BELL HOUSING ONLY JOB.

Click to expand...

I'm attaching a photo (photo 2) of the carrier shaft (this is the end that enter in the gearbox) and also a photo of the support bolted to the rear of the cylinder block (photo 3).
It seems to me that perhaps I can reach the bolts, but I don't see clearly how many of them they are. Do you know something?

And then, if I remove the support, the end of the shaft entering the gearbox can be simply pulled out, or I must keep it tied up to the gearbox itself?
Thanks guys!!!

You seem to have failed to post the pictures.

No, it's because I made the post in two steps
(when I finished with the car, I have to start with my computer ...:-( )

Unbolt the driveshaft Allen bolts and the drive shafts detatch without issue.

The "carrier shaft" doesn't need to be removed just undo the 3 bolts in the centre of the bracket to release the shaft then you can pull it back far enough to remove it from the gearbox. You will get a little oil leak out of the gearbox is tipped

AndyRKett said:

Unbolt the driveshaft Allen bolts and the drive shafts detatch without issue.

The "carrier shaft" doesn't need to be removed just undo the 3 bolts in the centre of the bracket to release the shaft then you can pull it back far enough to remove it from the gearbox. You will get a little oil leak out of the gearbox is tipped

Click to expand...

So this Fiat forum Punto JTD guide needs amending it seems.

https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-mk2-2b-guides/268999-punto-jtd-engine-removal-refitting-gars7.html

Ok, "carrier shaft" removed (I remove it to take a look at the ball bearing that it seems a bit worn)!!!

Now I see another potential problem:

There is a slack of 3cm only between the gearbox shape and the lower front cross member (if that is the name: that piece of bodywork where wishbones and dogbone are bolted).

My idea was to slide out a bit the gear box and then put it down. But I can do that only if the input shaft stick out for less than 3 cm.... or not?

If it is not possible to do so, I necessarily have to lower the engine very low (completely detach it from supports) to be able to slide out the bell housing/gearbox.

Is that correct?

You'll need to drop the engine down on the gearbox side so that when you do remove the gearbox you more outward and downwards.

It's only a slight angle you'll need just to clear the gearbox on the inner wheel arch.

Just be carful that the engine doesn't drop out of the engine mount near the coolant bottle.

FYI: Sachs makes a reinforced clutch (Sachs 3000951545)

Re: Punto 1.9 JTD 63kw refitting a new clutch You'll need to drop the engine down on the gearbox side so that when you do remove the gearbox you more outward and downwards.

It's only a slight angle you'll need just to clear the gearbox on the inner wheel arch.

Just be carful that the engine doesn't drop out of the engine mount near the coolant bottle.

Click to expand...

Thanks Andy,
so the engine has to assume a slight diagonal position.
Tomorrow I will double check everything, but if I remember correctly, between the right inner wing and the timing belt side of the engine there is a very little room: when I put the engine on diagonal, it doesn't crash against the inner wing?

eolonano said:

Thanks Andy,
so the engine has to assume a slight diagonal position.
Tomorrow I will double check everything, but if I remember correctly, between the right inner wing and the timing belt side of the engine there is a very little room: when I put the engine on diagonal, it doesn't crash against the inner wing?

Click to expand...

If everything is well controlled their should be no crashing of anything.

I found getting the wishbone and bottom of the suspension out of the way as much as possible was a great help.

And to many handle the gearbox out really needs two people if you're doing it on the ground

Thanks.
I have two other questions:

1) I was removing the counter-weight on the selector (as suggested in a guide on this site), but I'm now thinking can be better for me to remove the whole selector (three bolts under the cables and perhaps a lateral one) to get more room and avoid been stuck against the lower cross member;
I don't know if this can lead to some sort of problem when I remount the selector.
(photo1)

2) The clearance under the car is enough ? I have intention to remove the whole axle from the bottom strut, and tie up the caliper to the spring so I work easily.

on the 1.2 8v
We undo the 3x nuts that hold the gear cable into there bracket - but you still have then ball joints disconnected

It means you dont have to fight with the clips that often bend or dont move

Ziggy

I can mount dismount cables with no problem......
I was afraid of what there is under the selector, the goes inside the gearbox: I never dismount it, and so I don't know how it's made.

if in dowt - and you cant work it out
work around it

If you can remove the linkages, it should be fine upon removal

Ziggy

I knew it!!:bang:

I've inclined the engine at its maximum, and pulled the gearbox, but it was stuck on the lower cross member (first photo, in the exact centre of it).

So I remove the engine support (timing belt side) and I lowered down the engine; then I inclined it again and this time the gearbox goes under the lower cross member.

I had to pull out a hose of the water cooling system because it was placed in a nick on the radiator frame, and it can't be lowered with the engine (second photo).