Technical 100hp timing woes
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Technical 100hp timing woes
Make sure you have engine oil and coolant.
If it has expansion tank on side of radiator make sure you have read up on how to fill the cooling system while releasing the air from the cooling system using the air bleed points(At least 2)
Good luck.
Be gentle on it on first start with rebuilt head. Run it gently without driving, get it fully warm until electric rad fan cuts in.all the time checking for oil or coolant leaks.
Stop engine, leave it for 5mins recheck oil level.
If all good go for a gentle drive keep a very close eye on engine temperature.
Next time engine cold recheck coolant level.
Please let us know how it goes.
Well done getting to this stage.
If it has expansion tank on side of radiator make sure you have read up on how to fill the cooling system while releasing the air from the cooling system using the air bleed points(At least 2)
Good luck.
Be gentle on it on first start with rebuilt head. Run it gently without driving, get it fully warm until electric rad fan cuts in.all the time checking for oil or coolant leaks.
Stop engine, leave it for 5mins recheck oil level.
If all good go for a gentle drive keep a very close eye on engine temperature.
Next time engine cold recheck coolant level.
Please let us know how it goes.
Well done getting to this stage.
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And it lives!! Only had time to fit the aux belt and start once. Ill finish up the bleed and give it some fresh oil next week. Ill probably have to get some new break rotors as they are very rusted and they have a significant lip on them...
Its running pretty rough but thats to be expected after standing for months... idle sits steady at 900rpm. I am getting a check engine warning but thats to be expected right?
Its running pretty rough but thats to be expected after standing for months... idle sits steady at 900rpm. I am getting a check engine warning but thats to be expected right?
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I'd find out what the light is referring to, might be what's making it run rough
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Ya ill get it scanned and any error codes cleared but its idle evened out as it ran a bit more...
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It runs a bit rough... is there any way i can post a vid here? Or must it be uploaded to youtube first and then a link posted?
this pipe on the intake is broken... is this a vacuum or just a breather?
this pipe on the intake is broken... is this a vacuum or just a breather?- Joined
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Think i found my rough idle issue.... running on 3 cylinders because of a iffy coil pack connection..
That is very iffy.
Plus fix the broken pipe from previous post
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I had a similar problem when I change all my coil pack a bit ago. One of the coil packs had broken inside the rail plug! Manage to get all the brittle plastic out!
I'm going to change my NGK coil packs every 2 years from now on. I don't mind £98 for 4 ?
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Cable tie fix or best to replace the connector? What does that pipe do? Is it a breather? Or vacuum pipe?
Whatever works for you, but a connector from a scrap yard would be best.
Breather or vacuum ,
How about starting the engine and checking if either hole has vacuum?
Where does other end of pipe go?
It needs fixing anyway as you don't want dirt / grit/ dust getting in either hole.
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I had a coil working fine with a chipped cable connector shroud. I had another coil miss-firing diagnosed with IR thermometer aimed at the exhaust stubs. One was significantly cooler. Moved that one to a different cylinder and the cool exhaust moved. Some months later, I replaced the three old coils so the car had a full set of new.
One connector looks like yours but the contacts inside looked ok. It's working fine. New coil wiring looms are not cheap but you can buy the connectors to make your own.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=222264129714&_sacat=0
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This could easily be the cause of rough idle.
Where the plastic stub has broken off the inlet manifold it could be causing a bad vacuum leak.
As a temporary measure plug the hole in the inlet manifold.
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I dont know if its the connector itself, wiring or the aftermarket coil-pack thats giving the issues. I have to squeeze it pretty hard in place to get contact. So maybe rewiring would be an option... will play around with it.
Have a way of repairing the pipe in mind so will give it a go and report back...
How do the aftermarket intake or “cold air intakes handle this? Has anyone changed the complete manifold to a performance styled manifold? Or is it not worth it at all with these?
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They simply replace the OEM air cleaner with a large silicone rubber tube and pod filter. These things don't do anything between engine and throttle valve so won't cause or fix an inlet manifold air leak.
Don't enlarge the hole in either the plastic stub that broke off or the hole in the inlet manifold, it is a metered bleed
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Looks like another example of built in obsolescence. When that important stub snaps off, Fiat will sell you a new inlet manifold or a new car if that's cheaper.
Or do not snap the stub off(-:Looks like another example of built in obsolescence. When that important stub snaps off, Fiat will sell you a new inlet manifold or a new car if that's cheaper.
That's not a dig, it's easy to miss stuff like that and or the pipes can get ridiculously tight on stubs over time.
I don't know 100% from the photos but if the stub is for crankcase breathing when engine at idle .it would be acceptable to plug the stub hole and pipe. The result would be throttle plate would get dirtier more quickly and so require more frequent cleaning but if you are aware of this not a big deal.
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The issue is that CAD designers come up with fancy parts and no thought about how they'll be used over time. A snubber in the hose would do the job of controlling flow. Agreed. it is another part to fit on the production line, but there are so many other areas where manufacturing effort could be streamlined.
