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Technical Where the heck is it? ?

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Technical Where the heck is it? ?

KungFooPanda

KungFooPanda

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Hi guys

I’ve been changing all the filters and fluids on my (New to me) 2007 Panda ?hp. Thought I’d change the fuel filter, but I’ve just been told by a mate from work that it’s not changeable as it’s part of the fuel filter and in there for life. ?

Is there a fancy way of cleaning/Changing the filter? Or is it a case that you’d have to buy a new fuel pump with filter in? ?
 
Sadly, your mate is right. It's becoming a common feature of most petrol cars these days to incorporate the filter into the pump. I should'nt moan because it's one less thing to do at work but it's not the best of ideas. Hope you're having a blast with the 100HP - we had one, first owned by my eldest son, then his brother after his Punto was writted off and then by my daughters' boyfriend until he got his Punto Supersports so if you need any mod tips message me. 500 Abarth stuff will fit with a bit of tweaking.
 
Cheers Maggers ?

I was kinda hoping that I didn’t need to change it in some ways! Then again, that I could as I like to get all the oils and fluids changed. One less job! Although, I might price up a new fuel pump and bang one in.

I’ve not really used the Panda. Only driving it about 200 miles since I purchased it. Great fun though! ?

I’ll be picking your brains now on the ?hp ?
 
Yeah, Go crazy! As i say, this is one of those newer things. When i worked on Rovers, the 75 had an in-tank filter but there was no service period, they were considered a lifetime item. I'm not sure without looking but you may have to drop the fuel tank to get the pump out anyway. While you're under there, check the spring pans on the rear axle. It's not unknown for these to rot out so a preventative clean and paint would'nt go amiss.
 
Fuel filter is built into the pump, unless you have a problem I’d leave well alone. From personal experience the pump can be a sod to get re-sealed sometimes.
The pump is accessed from a panel under the rear seat. For info I changed mine last year due to hesitation, 65,000 odd miles and the filter panel itself still looked pretty clean. Pump was worn out though.
 
Awesome ?

I love it when manufacturers say “Sealed for life!” They do this a lot with gearbox oils, but there is always a way to get the old stuff out and fresh lube in ?

The spring pans don’t look that bad really. I’ll be rust proofing them when the weathers warms up. What’s your recommendation for shocks and springs? I don’t want to lower her, but I’d like to change the set up. ?
 
HP said:
Fuel filter is built into the pump, unless you have a problem I’d leave well alone. From personal experience the pump can be a sod to get re-sealed sometimes.
The pump is accessed from a panel under the rear seat. For info I changed mine last year due to hesitation, 65,000 odd miles and the filter panel itself still looked pretty clean. Pump was worn out though.
Click to expand...

Cheers HP ?

I think I’ll leave well alone in that case. No problems with the fueling I’m glad to say. I’ll be running either Shell V-Power or BP Ultima in there to help maintain the system along with some Wynn’s Gold fuel treatment and BG44K every now and again.

The only problem that happened yesterday was, when I started her I could hear the starter motor “Scream” as it disengage from the flywheel starter ring! So I guess that it’s on it’s way out. Anyone know where’s the best place to get a non- exchange unit from? What’s the original equipment on these?

??
 
HP said:
Try the different fuels, some work well with them and some don’t.

Mine has the ‘whirl’ noise when the starter disengages but it’s bearing whirl/noise and not the starter sticking in. They can run for years like this if it doesn’t upset you. Barchetta did for ~5 years!
Click to expand...

It doesn’t really bother me the sound at the minute, but that might change when I start using the car later on in the year. 1st job next week is to get the air con regas-gasses as it’s not that could. I can hear the compressor click in! So I’m guessing a recharge will be good to go ?
 
HP said:
Mine has the ‘whirl’ noise when the starter disengages but it’s bearing whirl/noise and not the starter sticking in. They can run for years like this if it doesn’t upset you. Barchetta did for ~5 years!
Click to expand...

If it bothers you, remove, dismantle, clean and regrease the starter- it'll likely quiet down and will certainly prolong its life.

If you shop around, you may be able to find suitable replacement bearings and brushes, and then you could give the starter a complete overhaul for a tiny fraction of the cost of a replacement. I once went to an old fashioned factors and they handed me a large box of unlabeled, assorted brushes, saying I could have any that I wanted for £1 a pair. I found some that were the correct size, but had completely different connecting wires, so I took the wires off the old brushes and soldered them onto the new ones. You could even buy oversized brushes and machine them to fit.
 
KungFooPanda said:
It doesn’t really bother me the sound at the minute, but that might change when I start using the car later on in the year. 1st job next week is to get the air con regas-gasses as it’s not that could. I can hear the compressor click in! So I’m guessing a recharge will be good to go ?
Click to expand...

I had my last one done locally, £45 for a full air con service and regas. Apparently they recommend a 2 yearly air con service but I doubt many people actually do!
 
jrkitching said:
If it bothers you, remove, dismantle, clean and regrease the starter- it'll likely quiet down and will certainly prolong its life.

If you shop around, you may be able to find suitable replacement bearings and brushes, and then you could give the starter a complete overhaul for a tiny fraction of the cost of a replacement. I once went to an old fashioned factors and they handed me a large box of unlabeled, assorted brushes, saying I could have any that I wanted for £1 a pair. I found some that were the correct size, but had completely different connecting wires, so I took the wires off the old brushes and soldered them onto the new ones. You could even buy oversized brushes and machine them to fit.
Click to expand...

I really wouldn’t know where to start with a strip down. And Mrs Foo would castrate me in my sleep with 2 house bricks if I spent all day in my shed ?
 
HP said:
I had my last one done locally, £45 for a full air con service and regas. Apparently they recommend a 2 yearly air con service but I doubt many people actually do!
Click to expand...

That’s not a bad price at all. I managed to get my 4x4 done at ATS through Groupon for £39.99 on a special deal. When you run yours, does either the “High or Low” port piped become very HOT? Mine does even though the air con inside the car runs cold! In my they cars, the one (Can’t remember which) is ? cold
 
Diesel can be grungy stuff but petrol is usually very clean so that filter will probably never get clogged up. Run a few tank's of Shell Optimax though it. That should clear any grunge.

BTW for anyone removing a fuel tank/pump access cover, grease the INSIDE edge only. DO NOT grease the tank edge or the seal will slip into the tank. The first you will know about the issue is when you fill the tank again.

Ive not done the Panda fuel tank but usually, you can check the seal has stayed put while the lid is part way in so ease it in carefully. Oooh Missus !!

A special tool is ideal, but a blunt wide-bladed screwdriver and hammer should shift the retaining ring enough to turn it by hand. When replacing, turn the ring backwards until the threads click then carefully hand turn it down. Use the screwdriver/spanner to move it the last 1/4 turn.
 
DaveMcT said:
Diesel can be grungy stuff but petrol is usually very clean so that filter will probably never get clogged up. Run a few tank's of Shell Optimax though it. That should clear any grunge.

BTW for anyone removing a fuel tank/pump access cover, grease the INSIDE edge only. DO NOT grease the tank edge or the seal will slip into the tank. The first you will know about the issue is when you fill the tank again.

Ive not done the Panda fuel tank but usually, you can check the seal has stayed put while the lid is part way in so ease it in carefully. Oooh Missus !!

A special tool is ideal, but a blunt wide-bladed screwdriver and hammer should shift the retaining ring enough to turn it by hand. When replacing, turn the ring backwards until the threads click then carefully hand turn it down. Use the screwdriver/spanner to move it the last 1/4 turn.
Click to expand...

V-power won’t clean a clogged fuel filter, what are you talking about?? If you want to clean the fuel system you need to add a proprietary cleaner.

Once you fit the fuel pump and put the locking ring on you can’t see or reach the seal at all. It can be a sod to try and hold it compressed down as the pump is sprung against the bottom of the tank. Seal can’t slip inside as there’s no room and the seal is pretty rigid.

Screwdriver and hammer was a great way to break the locking ring on mine as it was a very tight thread. Not all are like this, but some are.

You do occasionally post some misleading information Dave.
 
HP said:
V-power won’t clean a clogged fuel filter, what are you talking about?? If you want to clean the fuel system you need to add a proprietary cleaner.

Once you fit the fuel pump and put the locking ring on you can’t see or reach the seal at all. It can be a sod to try and hold it compressed down as the pump is sprung against the bottom of the tank. Seal can’t slip inside as there’s no room and the seal is pretty rigid.

Screwdriver and hammer was a great way to break the locking ring on mine as it was a very tight thread. Not all are like this, but some are.

(B)You do occasionally post some misleading information Dave.(B)
Click to expand...

A fair cop but I do assume some level of competence for anyone working with a fuel system. :)

Ive had no problems with my method (large BLUNT screwdriver) but I dont bash the lights out of it and would get a spanner if that was needed.
 
KungFooPanda said:
I really wouldn’t know where to start with a strip down. And Mrs Foo would castrate me in my sleep with 2 house bricks if I spent all day in my shed ?
Click to expand...
Cast iron "sleeping pants" give a good sense of security. But, be sure to leave an extra 30 seconds or so for that 3am visit to the loo just in case the catch jams!
 
KungFooPanda said:
I really wouldn’t know where to start with a strip down. And Mrs Foo would castrate me in my sleep with 2 house bricks if I spent all day in my shed ?
Click to expand...

Really glad that mrs Jeroen lets me do stuff like that (not the castrating mind you) on the dinnertable. As long as I clean up afterwards she even likes to help.
Remembering rebuilding a 5 cilinder Audi head on our dinnertable together:D

gr J(y)
 
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