Technical Towbar electrics

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Technical Towbar electrics

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Dec 10, 2007
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Hi I am about to fit a towbar and double electrics to my Multipla 1.9JTD ELX 2004 pre-facelift model. I have been researching how to do this and have a couple of queries. I have a Ryder split charge controller and a Smart 7-way bypass. I have to run a twin 44-strand cable from the battery to the split charge controller. How do I attach these to the battery? Do I also connect one of these same power lines to the 7-way bypass and use any earth point on the body? Do I need to replace the indicator relay to a more powerful one and if I do what type is needed and where is it fitted?
 
for wiring the N (black plug look at my guide here:

https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-pu...ng-towbar-12-n-socket-7-way-bypass-relay.html

this negates the need for uprating your cars own relay as its a self contained switching unit

as for the split charge control IIRC you need to fit them to the battery via a fuse of the correct rating (crimp eyelet to the battery post) and a fuse with in 12" of the battery on the live side to keep legal..
 
Thanks Andy though I still have some queries! It is good to see the extra load for the caravan indicators and repeaters is cared for by the bypass relay so I don't need to uprate the flasher relay.
The leaflet which came with the split charge relay says I should run a twin core 44-strand cable to it from the battery and to use both the feed terminals on the split charge relay to spread the load. So I presume there is no direct connection to the battery's negative post and that I am to connect the negative to a bolt on the body? If there is a battery connection, do I run a 4 core cable?
Do I just feed the 7-way bypass off one of these terminals on the split charge relay?
Do I put a separate fuse on each cable feed near the battery or is there a fuse box in the engine compartment to which the battery feed can (or does already) go to a fuse to which both postive feeds can be connected?
Do I fit both the split charge relay and the 7-way bypass relay in the rear of the Multipla?
Which side of the Multipla do I run the cables? I have seen pics showing the connections to the 7-way bypass relay being made to the rear O/S lights, but feeding the cable to the 12N through a grommet on the N/S floor! I haven't lifted the carpet yet so don't know how simple it is to run cables from the battery.
 
What relay do you have exactly?? (part number would be ideal I have found the Ryder wiring diagrams in PDF ((about page 37))

http://www.rydertowing.co.uk/pdf_checklists/Practical Guide.pdf



looking at it you can connect directly to a good earth in the boot..
Id be tempted to run a Big feed to the boot. (fused down to the correct rating at the battery end (dependent on which relay you have) and split it in the boot

ID also run a separate supply for the 12N If you have a fault with the vans charger and it pops the fuse you still have road lights also In bad weather the power draw to the vans road lights is increased when you add another 50watt draw when you put the fog lamps on for example
 
TF1170-3 30amp

Page 38..

TF2218P

page 25..

on this:

http://www.rydertowing.co.uk/pdf_checklists/Practical Guide.pdf

Its in PDF if your pc wont load it you need the program to view it its a Free download from ADOBE

http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html?ogn=EN_US-gntray_dl_get_reader


as for your other questions:

The leaflet which came with the split charge relay says I should run a twin core 44-strand cable to it from the battery and to use both the feed terminals on the split charge relay to spread the load. So I presume there is no direct connection to the battery's negative post and that I am to connect the negative to a bolt on the body? If there is a battery connection, do I run a 4 core cable?

No connection to the Negative post. there should be a decent earth under the trim in the boot where the rear lights are earthed..

you will only need one earth for the split charge relay as there is only one terminal.


Do I just feed the 7-way bypass off one of these terminals on the split charge relay?
Do I put a separate fuse on each cable feed near the battery or is there a fuse box in the engine compartment to which the battery feed can (or does already) go to a fuse to which both postive feeds can be connected?


Put it on its own supply as i mentioned earlyer it will continue to allow the road lights to work in the event of a short circuit blowing the smart charge relay.


Do I put a separate fuse on each cable feed near the battery or is there a fuse box in the engine compartment to which the battery feed can (or does already) go to a fuse to which both postive feeds can be connected?

Separate fuses you will need 2 one for the By-pass relay and one for the Split charge relay

http://www.emergencyequipmentshop.c....html?osCsid=f2a030005529aed9f0ab581bd7ac22cc

(standard will take 30A)

alternatively this will look neater
http://www.emergencyequipmentshop.c....html?osCsid=f2a030005529aed9f0ab581bd7ac22cc
(in 2 way)

what i'd do the way the charge relay takes 2 feeds is run a 30amp cable from the battery to the fuse box (Id personally go for the box with a lid as its better built than the inline type)then use a blue lucar piggyback connector with a bit of heat shrink to insulate the spade part which would push onto the fuse with cover connection
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=L27AY&DOY=23m12

and fuse the by-pass relay in second fuse holder

Do I fit both the split charge relay and the 7-way bypass relay in the rear of the Multipla?
Which side of the Multipla do I run the cables? I have seen pics showing the connections to the 7-way bypass relay being made to the rear O/S lights, but feeding the cable to the 12N through a grommet on the N/S floor! I haven't lifted the carpet yet so don't know how simple it is to run cables from the battery.


This is the bit where you need a Multipla owner :D but both relays go somewhere behind the boot liner where you can get the leads out to the sockets outside the car as for getting cables across the car run them down which ever sides easy then run it across the boot behind the boot liner near where the boot catch is..
 
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Thanks Andy.
Very clear, and I will do just as you say. Any links to where I can get a suitable reasonably priced two-core 30Amp cable and single core ditto, or a 3-core ditto?
 
According to they RYDER site you will want a min of 2core (2.5mm2) for the split charge relay And a Minimum of 1x3mm2 between the battery and the fuse..



"Choose the right cable.
For a standard fitting to supply a fridge and charge a battery, we recommend twin 35’s
(2x2.5mm2) or single 44’s (1x3.0mm2) at least. For the largest vehicles and caravans, twin
44’s (2x3.0mm2) is required if the customer wants his big caravan fridge to work properly.
Thinner cable is likely to produce excessive voltage drops under heavy load conditions.
(Finding other, thinner wires, such as the boot lamp wire, to feed the auxiliary circuits is
potentially dangerous as these wires may overheat under load. It is unlikely that the trigger
unit would operate under such circumstances, which could be just as well!)"



You can get "singles" (single core) from most car shops for about £3.50 a 2.5 metre reel or if i was you i'd just buy a reel 50mtrs of 3mm is £23+vat and will come in for many jobs.. dont forget you will also need 2 cores from the other side of the boot to run the opposite indicator and sidelight..

http://www.shop.pcscables.co.uk/productsMain.asp?ProductID=1680

Or the 25 amp 2 core at maplin part number "XS74R" with a diameter of 3.53mm2

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=SPEC&ModuleNo=20666&doy=23m12#spec
 
Andy Monty has kindly helped with the general electrics for my towbar. Is there a Multipla owner out there who has fitted their own bar? The battery is on the n/s and I want to run cables from it down the n/s. There are two blanks holes in the front bulkhead. One is the unused lhd hole for the bonnet opener cable. I could use that except that when I remove the rubber grommet the rear of the hollow bulkhead does not appear to be drilled. I have tried shining a torch through but see no light behind the fascia. Do I have to drill the inside bulkhead to run the cables? Second query - Does anyone know the part numbers (or have a couple) of the maxi fuse holders which would clip piggyback fashion onto the current ones (one unlabelled 70A) and the other the A/C fuse?
 
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Andy Monty has kindly helped with the general electrics for my towbar. Is there a Multipla owner out there who has fitted their own bar? The battery is on the n/s and I want to run cables from it down the n/s. There are two blanks holes in the front bulkhead. One is the unused lhd hole for the bonnet opener cable. I could use that except that when I remove the rubber grommet the rear of the hollow bulkhead does not appear to be drilled. I have tried shining a torch through but see no light behind the fascia. Do I have to drill the inside bulkhead to run the cables? Second query - Does anyone know the part numbers (or have a couple) of the maxi fuse holders which would clip piggyback fashion onto the current ones (one unlabelled 70A) and the other the A/C fuse?
Did you ever find a suitable spot to run the cable through without drilling?
 
Hello Mad Hatter
I got no replies so went ahead and drilled through the bulkhead. Was difficult to do! Then ran the cables down to the floor and to the rear through clips in the spaces below the bottom plastic cills.
I believe fitters take the short cut of going down in the engine compartment and then tying the cable to the chassis - probably a lot less hassle, but I am a perfectionist!
I am wondering if removing the left hand glove compartment might give sight of some pre-drilled but taped or bunged holes? It would be worth trying that first. I can't believe that the old lhd holes aren't there somewhere!
 
Hello Mad Hatter
I believe fitters take the short cut of going down in the engine compartment and then tying the cable to the chassis - probably a lot less hassle, but I am a perfectionist!
Why didn't I think of that:doh:
Many thanks for your help.
 
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