Panda (Classic) Project Fallout

Sounds similar to the original Project Peterborough concept. Just as well I've procrastinated to the point of almost original restoration.

War... war never changes........

I like the idea of making something from nothing, btw: who do I have to kill to get free panda 4x4 ?

I can drop the Paris Dakar bull bar...



...round if you want it.

It needs a new winch plate and you can either narrow it easily or widen your arches to meet it.

Owes me £25 yours for the same.

Fantastic, couldn't have hoped for a better home!

Watching your vids it looks like you very much have your work cut out and your wallet is about to be well and truly beaten

but hey if its what you love doing why the hell not

haha that bull bar does look mean.. is it under a plastic cover? i'd like it, but i dont have £25 at the moment :/

so today i have been just cleaning. the engine and gearbox came up really nice. the underside is... almost mud free. the carpet has come up nice despite all the mouse .. yeah. same for the dash panel.

took all the wheel arch liners out, jet washed all inside it, checked over the seams, found more rust.. the usual.

fixed the hand brake, took the drum off the passenger side and found one of the arms was seized up, the front shoe is down to the metal, the other has loads of life left in it.. guess its been at fault for a while.

on the back most universal joint of the prop shaft before it fixes to the rear diff, 2 of the bearings has dropped out so it rattles around and has play in it. i'll have to find another from somewhere.

cut the end off the vac advance line so now theres no air leak. engine runs smooth

took the back box off as it needs welding. i must admit. that fire engine sure sounds good strait piped. so good i actually plan of making a 2 part exhaust.. well 3 part really.
what to do with the exhaust was something i was in a pickle with. you see post apocaliptic cars as showing exhaust going down the side of the car, sticking out the bonnet, or some other thing. well thats all well and good after the fallout, but for now any open exhaust pipe must be covered by a heat shield to become MOTable.
anyway so not to annoy the neighbours i'll be making a valve system up..

split the exhaust so it Y's out and exits just before the back wheels on both sides. however it would be loud. so i leave the original exhaust on the car and use that while on the road... the thing is switching between the 2. i'd have to make two Y bits, one with a switching valve for going into the split exhaust and one FOR the split exhaust. the plan would be to make it out of something using a butterfly style valve. then use simple push bike brake or gear cable to move the valve from inside the car.
i will make this at a later date. as of now i am focusing on the project becoming completely rust free.

i am glad to say from what i can see, i will not be needing to take the wind screen out. i have been around the whole thing lifting the rubber seal and only found really slight caused by grit caught under the rubber seal just rubbing the paint off.
i have not taken the vents off yet though, so who knows what will be behind them.

the cabin fan and heater matrix box was taken out and cleaned up. with mice living around the thing it needed it.need to bolt all that back in at some point in time.

not yet cleaned the seats, but i will eventually.
i was thinking of making new door cards. i think ally checker plate would look good and suit the theme.

anyway. heres a video for all who are interested, enjoy guys

How about a couple of ninety degree bends off the manifold and the exhaust silencer running along inside the bumper?
The bull bars aren't going anywhere for a while.

Nice one John . I've seen worse 4x4's sell for £500+ in the past!

I like the theme too, perfect for having fun on a tight budjet.

yeah that sounds good but i am not sure how MOT passable it is like that. i would need heat shielding.. but that would look good.. also would not have to worry about wheel arches too... hmm

Good find that mate, looking forward to seeing what you will do with it - i don't even need to suggest that you keep us posted on progress

Provided it's not a pedestrian hazard there's little the mot man can do about it. From the bottom of the bull bar where it meets the sump guard would be best.

so, i am thinking.. something like this...:



minus the windscreen plate.

now it may be hard to sort of build over the wheel arches using the pipe.. looks damn good though. maybe with Liquid Knight's bull bar i would be able to do it. i dont know.
what does the bar look like under the plastic cover?

i really need to sort out the rust before i deal with any styling.

found out today that the mounting point of the passinger rear shackle on the leaf spring has eaten its way right through the mounting point. the hole is quite large and will need cutting out and a new bit welding in place. may take the opportunity to make some new, longer shackles maybe by a few inch. as looking at it, if i was to make them 2 inch longer it would give the back end a 1 inch lift.

i also cut the rusty wheel arch out today too. not sure how far back i should take it however.. least i wont have to rebuild or re-skin the wheel arch if i make them bigger.
2 out of the 4 arches are totally rusted out.. more like a 2 and a half as both front are a bit bad.

as i do this i just cant help but feel like i am wrecking the car :/ but i guess i have to speak with my wallet and not my heart. the cheaper option is just to cut all the rusted arches out and weld the inner and outer arch together as neat as i can. i bet a skin would cost a bit anyway.

i have not decided how to attack the drivers side sill yet. it is rotten about all the way upi think the best way would be to angle grind the sill seam off and weld a nice thick flat bar in its place. the pro of doing this is with the sill in half i can peel it back and weld the inner sill. then weld that to the bar, then the 2 outer sills to the bar.

while i am at it, i would really like to create a before wheel after door exhaust opening.

how do MOT guys like the sills being cut open and a recess put in to fit an exhaust outlet in? i would build it strong using thick flat bar more strong than the original sill... is this modding it too much to cause a mot fail?
also my plan was to take the exhaust where it comes out of the down pipe. add the valved Y splitter (the valve bit i will build so i can route it through the original exhaust or the 2 side vents) then from the valved Y spliter, put it through another splitter to split the exhaust to both sides of the car, because the rear suspention mount is right in the way of where i want the exhaust to vent i will have to bring it out the car near the doors then run it along under and behind the sill then bring it out the side.
i may have to cut of the useless rear sill jacking point that a 4 poster car lift uses to do it though. but i think it would work.

if my drawing was better i would draw this up.

however like how liquid night said, 2 right angles off the manifold, exiting through the front, under the head lights around and over the front wheel, down the other side of the arch and along under the door with a heat shield over it it would also be a good place to fit some silencers to it.. maybe something like a cherry bomb exhaust, or 2 together on each side. not sure how loud it would be but my guess is it would be loud. i dont really like that amount of loud all the time though :/

ill have to plan it all on paper. then i can scan it, and you guys can have a laugh at my childish handwriting and drawing skills.

i have to keep remembering that any bodywork damage i do can only add to the effect. damn it just feels so wrong to do it to a car model i love so much. :/

i just know at the end of it all its gonna look sofa king good though. so good i may not be able to sell it and be forced to make maybe one of the hardest decisions of my life.. *shudders* but that is a long way off..

anyway when it uploads, here is a video of what i have done today:



peace all!

Minus the screen plate?

A bit dodgey.

MOT wont like the windscreen being covered lmao. i will however go with a fold down grill / windscreen cover and have it integrated into the roof rack so it folds under it.
thats the plan anyway. haha

Never mind the mot this is definately going to need an SVA test!

Dragon Man said:

MOT wont like the windscreen being covered lmao. i will however go with a fold down grill / windscreen cover and have it integrated into the roof rack so it folds under it.
thats the plan anyway. haha

Click to expand...

Don't forget it needs to fold upwards as well so it can be used as a gun turret.

I was thinking the other day all the Peterborough stuff is well and good but by the time I've finished the car will weigh over a Ton. Even a SuperFire engine would have issues lugging that weight around. While it would be a cool build and look nasty the off road capability and general drive-ability of the car would be compromised.

Still my projects change direction more often than a woman would if Ikea sold shoes. I put the "pro" in crastonation.

What year/reg is it John?

yeah, weight was something I was worried about. and an engine upgrade is something I was planning to do. I am not sure I was going to use the original engine though. what I would like to do is go diesel and make an adaptor plate so it will mount to the 4x4 gearbox. i'd need help on that side though in the future :/

I think that this gear box has been reconditioned at some point in time. it is very corrosion free. all the boots have been changed but one is leaking guhh.

I was not thinking of making the external roll cadge out of thick steel, as I was not really planning to turn it into an off roader. i am going for visual more than off road ability.

you reckon it would need a SVA test VmanC? something i was trying to avoid tbh lmao

its a 1988 G reg. i have the vehicle reg from off the tax disc.

You are correct with your method on repairing the rear sill, that is the only way to do it properly, especially with it that bad! Don't peel the outer sill up though, just cut it off, once you fold it, it will be hard to get it back into shape, easier to cut it off clean and then just weld it back on

Never seen or heard of rust like that on the rear chassis rails. Looks pretty bad but nothing that can't be fixed, although I think alot of people would consign it to scrap, good job you got it

If you want any help sorting out the sills, I am not far away and I know how it should all be after doing my Mk1 and Sisley