Fitting new belt



you now need to remove the fixed tensioner, this you will need a DEEP 22mm socket for, this is what you have to remove -
7a.jpg
once out put the new one straight in and tighten it right up.

now put the new moving tensioner but DON'T TIGHTEN, there are grooves ion the base make sure they line up.

Now compare the new belt with the old belt to make sure they are the same, and there is no damage on the new one.

If you're happy, put the new belt on in this order-
  1. crank
  2. oil pump
  3. fixed tensioner
  4. cam sprockets
  5. moving tensioner.
Make sure the belt is tight on the fixed tensioner side.

Now count the amount of teeth you marked up on the old belt, and compare them to the new one, one tooth out your wrong and need to pull it off again. This has to be 100% on the mark so make sure its correct.

The belt should now be ready to go after you have tightened it up.
There is a special tool in the cam locking kit to do this - you bolt it into one of the holes used to mount the engine mount (the last big lump of metal with the annoying alum bolt in) just above the moving tensioner.
7b.jpg

as you can see in that pic i was adjusting it, be careful here, there is a slot at the bottom of the tensioner that the tool sits in, don't rest it against the outside of the runner, it will slot in and then you will need to adjust it to full tension - lock it into place with the 12mm bolt.

You will now need to remove the crank locking tool and the cam locking tools and stick from cylinder 1 if you haven't already done so

If you are feeling weak now you can also remove all the spark plugs, BUT make sure the are is clear of any debris, nuts n bolts - otherwise you will end up having to strip your head off to remove anything that falls in if you notice - or you may not notice and write of your engine!!.

It's time to check your work - well manually anyway.
Refit your crank pulley and nut
Use your 36mm socket and turn the engine over CLOCKWISE 4x (watch that little dot), when your at 4x you should be back to your timed position.
you can now put the cam tools back on and see that they match up, also put your stick into cylinder 1 and make sure its TDC.
If all ok then you will need to adjust that tensioner to the correct settings,
there is a spy whole with an arrow and a dot, the arrow needs to be in-line with the little dot to be at the correct tension
7c.jpg
that pic shows it over tightened (sorry i forgot to take a pic with the correct tension).
Remove the locking tools again, and turn the engine over by hand as many times as you feel is necessary, check they are in correct position as many times as you need to for piece of mind, i done mine 20.
All done now for the rebuild!!.

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