fiatfred
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The windscreen washer on my doblo reservior is full but pump does not operate, could someone please tell me where the pump is located and if there is a seperate fuse for the pump. 
Technical windscreen washer pump on doblo
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Technical windscreen washer pump on doblo
The windscreen washer on my doblo reservior is full but pump does not operate, could someone please tell me where the pump is located and if there is a seperate fuse for the pump.
Pumps are normally located on the base of the reservoir.
Does it make a noise when you press the switch? If it does it's just blocked.
fiatfred
New member
Thanks richdoblo for your help,no it does`nt make a noise when pressed so I asume it will need a new pump, do you know if the pump has its own seperate fuse?
check for supplies at the pump
Hi; it does have a separate fuse...number 43, I think (see owner's handbook). It's located in the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel, not in the box in the engine compartment. I've got the same problem; am going to have to remove the o/s wheel, then the wheel arch liner to get to it.....and it's not even my vehicle - joys of having son who's just bought his first vehicle (doblo cargo van....!!) and is off back to university so pushed for time to get the job done.....good old dad - we have our uses!
Have now changed my pump. It took nearly 3 hours to do, but I'm a bit slow, so 2 1/2 is probably about right. Jack o/s front up + axle stands, remove wheel. Lower the o/s part of the floor pan to help removal of wheel arch protector - you may have to loosen where it joins on to the bumper in order to effectively do this). Bottle is quite large, and held in place by 2 nuts. Remove these, then push bottle upwards to take it off its bottom rubber mounting. Remove electrical contacts followed by pipe (pump came off at same time, so I got soaked!). Flush bottle if needed, fit new pump and reverse removal process. Good luck!
or remove nearside fog light blanking cover (3 x 3mm allen screws), reach in & pull out pump/push in new one...5 minutes
Sorry to dredge up an old post but the pump on my 1.9 Family (06 plate) appears to be no longer working. It doesn't seem to make any noise either. Fuse is fine.
I have neither the time, tools or knowledge to start pulling the car apart or money to be paying someone to do it (although I did get a warranty with Arnold Clark when I bought it).
Is there actually a simple way of getting at the pump to see if it's something as simple as a connector come loose or something?
I did see the post above but I have fog lights in mine...
Thanks,
Ewan
I have neither the time, tools or knowledge to start pulling the car apart or money to be paying someone to do it (although I did get a warranty with Arnold Clark when I bought it).
Is there actually a simple way of getting at the pump to see if it's something as simple as a connector come loose or something?
I did see the post above but I have fog lights in mine...
Thanks,
Ewan
Best thing is to phone arnold clark to see if it is covered under their warranty, doubt it and you'll probably be hit with hours diagnosis anyway however phone them to find out where you stand, thats your first step.
For anyone interested, it is as simple as removing the 3 allen bolts, pulling out the fog light, unplugging the pump and refitting a new one. Dead simple.
You have to reach to the left and up the side of the bottle to find the pump but it just pops in and out.
Halfords sell generic pumps too and they do one that fits exactly.
You have to reach to the left and up the side of the bottle to find the pump but it just pops in and out.
Halfords sell generic pumps too and they do one that fits exactly.
Nice one.
OH had a similar thing with her vauxhall - except it waas a poxy filter in the pump & network Q refused to cover it - she ended up paying £90 for the fix (you have to strip half the flippin' engine bay out).
Good to know that there is a way to access And, more importantly, replace on the cheap.
OH had a similar thing with her vauxhall - except it waas a poxy filter in the pump & network Q refused to cover it - she ended up paying £90 for the fix (you have to strip half the flippin' engine bay out).
Good to know that there is a way to access And, more importantly, replace on the cheap.
see post #7
:d
globular cluster
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Hi, this is a right *******. The ****s who designed this car were having a laugh at our DIY expense. Anyway, to the details...... NOTE - keep the rubber bit on the pump nozzle when you remove it and also make a note of which of the two pipes on the pump go to which outlet - one of the outlets is white.
Thankfully you do NOT need to remove the engine.
If both the the front and rear washers are not working and you cannot hear a whirring noise when you try to activate the washers then the washer pump has died either because of a failed fuse (check this first), a bad electrical connection , is full of gunge or has actually expired itself.
Where is it? Well, the morons who designed this car decided that they would make a wierdly shaped plastic bottle that was seemingly inserted into the car complete with its pump before any other part, so it would be completely impossible to remove or service before taking the whole front end apart.
BUT they have failed, only just, thankfully!
The pump is inside the offside front bumper and untouchable unless you remove the engine, ****, sorry the offside inner wheel arch. There are a 4, (perhaps 5) cross head screws just under the front offside front bumper which you can remove to loosen the plastic wheel arch.
With these removed you can pull the wheel arch plastic backwards so that you can get your hand in (just) and feel the motor which has two pipes attached to the sides and a power cable entering at the top. The bottle is cunningly designed to have a dent in it with a kind of shelf with a hole in it so the motor can sit on the "shelf" with its "sucker" stuck through the hole with a rubber grommet to seal the "sucker" into the hole. If you wiggle the motor and push up slightly you will be rewarded with a stream of the remaining contents of the water bottle running down your arm and the pump will drop off into your hand. Now, it is a bit like the problem where the monkey puts its hand through the bars of its cage and grasps a huge banana and finds it is impossible to pull the banana through the small hole.... If the pipes and cable are long enough you will be able to pull the whole gubbins through the blood encrusted gap that you have been fiddling about in (in a light rain shower) for the last 10 minutes. So now you have sight of the little bas****! Remember that you have just to had to fix this for the dreaded MOT, instead of being (im)perfectly happy using a squirty fairy liquid bottle at 70mph on the motorway for the last 6 months with only a minor dislocation to your arm.. Now would be the time to take your revenge and rip it out;.... and smash it to smithereens. BUT WAIT! Maybe it was just a connector problem? So waggle the conector with someone trying the switch at the same time probably with no luck. Now rip it out and forget to make a note of which of the two pipes went where (see suck and blow below). I tried putting 12 volts on it from the battery using a piece of wire - still seemed bust! Hmm.. maybe it was bust.
BUT NOTE (again) there is a rubber connector around the nozzle that goes in the tank - you need this as the replacement pump as described below comes with a (not immediately obvious) different one which does not fit into the tank. .
SUCK OR BLOW?
When I started on this I didn't know that this pump supplies both the back and front screens, so I was confused as to why this pump should have two tubes (plus a supply --- "sucker" tube). I blew ( and sucKed - YUK) through all its orifices to try to understand how it worked... You will find that the two tube connections coming out of it are different colours - the black one seems to go straight through to the inlet ("sucker) but the white one was hard to get any air through, either on suck(YUK) or blow. My mate suggested that the second tube was a "breather pipe" - that didn't sound sensible - what for?. I checked that there was only one tube going to the front "squirters" which splits into two under the bonnet.
Raining really hard now - do I try and repeat the bloody exercise now in a swampy scrapyard to pull out another faulty little b****** or go online or Hal****s? Well, baz a couple of screws back in with tubes hanging and go to Halfords in Ormskirk - Nothing like it there, but many empty places for other pumps . Tootle round for a bit - raining hard - buy a pie and munch - bugger it - Saturday - no alternative, so go to Halfords in Aintree. Looked through them all and found PEWP10 which had two outlets - took a punt and paid 12.60 as it looked like it might do the job and had same power connections.
Rain stopped so plugged it in (still hanging free) and it made a noise when both front and back washers were activated! DuH - maybe the motor runs one way for front and the other way for back and there is some sort of non return valve? - I knew I should have chopped the damn thing open to see how it worked because this is indeed true. If you use the replacement part above then the blue side goes to the pipe that was connected to the white outlet on the original part (I am fairly sure but I stand to be corrected)
If you have replaced the rubber grommet that you kept from the original pump (it took me over an hour to find the blasted thing after i FOUND THE NEW ONE DIDN'T FIT) then you can shed some more blood from the back of your hand putting the pump back in... and voila; a quick test and you can put the wheel arch cover back in using the screws that you lost somewhere between the garage and....Halfords -- OR MAYBE FIND THEM AN HOUR LATER IN THAT SUPER SAFE PLACE LIKE THE LEFT HAND POCKET OF YOUR WATERPROOF THAT YOU DIDN'T NEED NOW THE SUN WAS SHINING ?
Have fun
Thankfully you do NOT need to remove the engine.
If both the the front and rear washers are not working and you cannot hear a whirring noise when you try to activate the washers then the washer pump has died either because of a failed fuse (check this first), a bad electrical connection , is full of gunge or has actually expired itself.
Where is it? Well, the morons who designed this car decided that they would make a wierdly shaped plastic bottle that was seemingly inserted into the car complete with its pump before any other part, so it would be completely impossible to remove or service before taking the whole front end apart.
BUT they have failed, only just, thankfully!
The pump is inside the offside front bumper and untouchable unless you remove the engine, ****, sorry the offside inner wheel arch. There are a 4, (perhaps 5) cross head screws just under the front offside front bumper which you can remove to loosen the plastic wheel arch.
With these removed you can pull the wheel arch plastic backwards so that you can get your hand in (just) and feel the motor which has two pipes attached to the sides and a power cable entering at the top. The bottle is cunningly designed to have a dent in it with a kind of shelf with a hole in it so the motor can sit on the "shelf" with its "sucker" stuck through the hole with a rubber grommet to seal the "sucker" into the hole. If you wiggle the motor and push up slightly you will be rewarded with a stream of the remaining contents of the water bottle running down your arm and the pump will drop off into your hand. Now, it is a bit like the problem where the monkey puts its hand through the bars of its cage and grasps a huge banana and finds it is impossible to pull the banana through the small hole.... If the pipes and cable are long enough you will be able to pull the whole gubbins through the blood encrusted gap that you have been fiddling about in (in a light rain shower) for the last 10 minutes. So now you have sight of the little bas****! Remember that you have just to had to fix this for the dreaded MOT, instead of being (im)perfectly happy using a squirty fairy liquid bottle at 70mph on the motorway for the last 6 months with only a minor dislocation to your arm.. Now would be the time to take your revenge and rip it out;.... and smash it to smithereens. BUT WAIT! Maybe it was just a connector problem? So waggle the conector with someone trying the switch at the same time probably with no luck. Now rip it out and forget to make a note of which of the two pipes went where (see suck and blow below). I tried putting 12 volts on it from the battery using a piece of wire - still seemed bust! Hmm.. maybe it was bust.
BUT NOTE (again) there is a rubber connector around the nozzle that goes in the tank - you need this as the replacement pump as described below comes with a (not immediately obvious) different one which does not fit into the tank. .
SUCK OR BLOW?
When I started on this I didn't know that this pump supplies both the back and front screens, so I was confused as to why this pump should have two tubes (plus a supply --- "sucker" tube). I blew ( and sucKed - YUK) through all its orifices to try to understand how it worked... You will find that the two tube connections coming out of it are different colours - the black one seems to go straight through to the inlet ("sucker) but the white one was hard to get any air through, either on suck(YUK) or blow. My mate suggested that the second tube was a "breather pipe" - that didn't sound sensible - what for?. I checked that there was only one tube going to the front "squirters" which splits into two under the bonnet.
Raining really hard now - do I try and repeat the bloody exercise now in a swampy scrapyard to pull out another faulty little b****** or go online or Hal****s? Well, baz a couple of screws back in with tubes hanging and go to Halfords in Ormskirk - Nothing like it there, but many empty places for other pumps . Tootle round for a bit - raining hard - buy a pie and munch - bugger it - Saturday - no alternative, so go to Halfords in Aintree. Looked through them all and found PEWP10 which had two outlets - took a punt and paid 12.60 as it looked like it might do the job and had same power connections.
Rain stopped so plugged it in (still hanging free) and it made a noise when both front and back washers were activated! DuH - maybe the motor runs one way for front and the other way for back and there is some sort of non return valve? - I knew I should have chopped the damn thing open to see how it worked because this is indeed true. If you use the replacement part above then the blue side goes to the pipe that was connected to the white outlet on the original part (I am fairly sure but I stand to be corrected)
If you have replaced the rubber grommet that you kept from the original pump (it took me over an hour to find the blasted thing after i FOUND THE NEW ONE DIDN'T FIT) then you can shed some more blood from the back of your hand putting the pump back in... and voila; a quick test and you can put the wheel arch cover back in using the screws that you lost somewhere between the garage and....Halfords -- OR MAYBE FIND THEM AN HOUR LATER IN THAT SUPER SAFE PLACE LIKE THE LEFT HAND POCKET OF YOUR WATERPROOF THAT YOU DIDN'T NEED NOW THE SUN WAS SHINING ?
Have fun
The pump is at the back of the water tank nearest the drivers wheel. Remove the drivers side fog lamp, reach round the rear and it literally lifts out. If the tank is full "you could get wet". Pull it forwards and disconnect two pipes and the connector. Chances are the pump is duff. I bought a new replacement for a tenner from a local auto spares shop and re-fitted the new one. Simple Eh ! Some say remove the wheel, inner trims and god knows what, It's not needed. Most of the time spent was fathoming how to get at it without taking the car to bits, so you benefit from my cunning. Which pipe to put where, It doesn't actually matter as the flow direction is controlled elsewhere by solenoids via the stalk switch but it will fit better if you take note before you dismantle.
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PeteDoblo2
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My problem is intermittent, no noise from pump this time, but only happened after changing offside headlamp bulb (which blows twice a year) and filling washer fluid. Could either of these be a catalyst for the washer pump not working?
Secondly, is this the front fog light - and why nearside, when the other post had to remove offside front wheel?
All help appreciated, Doblo is 1.9JTD 150,000 miles.
