Does it come with a white coat?

Thanks for tipping me about it umpteen times and me ignoring you each time I'll be ordering it tomorrow. Need to be getting to bed....again. Just having a fag now....

superspotter said:

Doc wants you to be his guinea pig Robot

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That's the first step, he'll be asking you to be his bitch next

Alan.D said:

That's the first step, he'll be asking you to be his bitch next

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Say my name, SAY MY NAME.............

LittleRedB

Anyhow, might it be the solenoid which is knackered? The variator not getting enough oil?

Somebody said that it at doesn't sound like the tappets.

The engine does sound 'dry' (don't know how else to explain it), so something with the oil not getting where it should would make sense, or?


Btw., yes, super - I did buy a stethoscope on eBay today

Well Dr Robot..........go prod

As soon as I recieve it, providing the B's still in one piece

Just remember to be careful where you prod, would hate to lose you
Just touch the end of all the cogs/bearings/variator several times but I think you will soon find the cause

I'll have a look at the oil feed to the head when I get a mo. If it has the thin pipes they can often get clogged restricting flow.....will hopefull answer soon

Robot said:

LittleRedB

Click to expand...

lol

I went by to the local Fiat today to impress them with my John Deere; apparently I only have to change the cam belt, tensioner and some other wheel (most likely the 'driven gear' from ePer).

The bad news is that this will set me back £480 - the parts being £235, labour £245

So, anybody recently seen these parts on eBay?


I'll nontheless make sure that I'll be prodding my B with the stethocsope whenever I recieve it. Without a tie on

Does this look like the parts? £170 cheaper than here, or more likely £140 when customs etc. have been taken into account

I think so, they look like the parts but mine was fitted by the garage so I didn't see them all laid out like that.

It will be, do it yourself....after taking out the whole interior the cam belt will be easy.

Need to remove the inner arch lining and then you will get the space you need to get in.

Found it's the same with the alt pully belt remove the liner and the job is much easier.

Not sure I can be bothered doing this myself... I think I'd rather have the Fiat (/Mitusibishi/Chevrolet :yuck garage do this so I can get the warranty on the repair. I did have the cam belt changed in February by my brother who did it for free - and apparently badly - and look where it got me .

Better safe than sorry


(The 2nd wheel's the 'Fixed Tightener', not 'Driven Gear' )

Btw., should I have the water pump changed while having the cam belt done?

Yes, whilst you're in there. Drive it over here and I will do it for you gratis

When replacing the pully belt do you need to replace the tensioner like you do on the cam belt ?

Do I need a TDC gauge for pot one when setting up to change the cam belt?

So far I have a cam belt,tensioner, water pump, pully belt, cam blocks, cam tool.

I still need to get gasket seal, coolant, (TDC gauge ?) anything else ?

In answer to your questions Doc: 1. No. it is not as vital obviously as the cambelt tensioner. 2. You dont really need a tdc guage as you will have everything set up before you take the old belt off i.e. the cam locking tools in place and the crankshaft at TDC anyway but I always take number one plug out and have a peek/poke just to make sure! 3. Torch! It gets a bit dark down by the crankshaft. Also last time I did one, I took the crankshaft sensor off and cleaned it, gets quite a lot of muck on it. regards clive.

One other thing Doc just as a safety measure seeing as you have not done one before, when you have finished I would recommend that you turn the engine over with a spanner on the crankshaft at least a couple of revolutions just to make entirely sure that you have done everything right and that there is no interference between pistons and valves before you start her up