I am having an absolute nightmare trying to bleed the clutch on a 2011 500 twinair.

Are there 2 bleed points? I have been trying to pressure bleed via the 4mm hex screw on the slave cylinder but all i get is bubbling air and the clutch pedal stays flat to the floor.

The master sits above the pedal in the footwell but cannot see a place to bleed it.

Has anyone suffered the same problem?

Many thanks for any help

topproff said:

I am having an absolute nightmare trying to bleed the clutch on a 2011 500 twinair.

Are there 2 bleed points? I have been trying to pressure bleed via the 4mm hex screw on the slave cylinder but all i get is bubbling air and the clutch pedal stays flat to the floor.

The master sits above the pedal in the footwell but cannot see a place to bleed it.

Has anyone suffered the same problem?

Many thanks for any help

Click to expand...

Hi

Why are you bleeding it.. all been apart.. any new parts.?


4mm hole..?

Some slaves have no bleed point as such..
And slackening the hose point can do the same job..

How are you pressurising the system ?

Do you have help whilst bleeding it? You need two people you may need to bleed "quite a bit" if you're not sure how much air is in. Only one bleed point.

Easiest way is to vacuum bleed it.

Note that, unusually, the fluid does not come out of the same place you loosen the bleed screw.

Using any kind of pressure bleeding method, even pedal pumping, risks spraying hydraulic fluid everywhere.

It can be done with the battery tray in place if you can work by feel, but you will have better access, and be able to see what you're doing, if you remove it.

Once familiar with the procedure, doing it with the battery in place and a vacuum bleeder takes only a few minutes.

I'd strongly recommend changing the fluid every two years, or (better), annually; it's easily contaminated and there is very little of it.

Ive literally been on it all day,

I have used the pressure bleeder and it only seems to induce air.

I have removed the clip at both ends of the pipe and still only air comes through no fluid.

I have taken to sucking the fluid through using an oil vacuum pump at the slave cylinder pipe, which works but..

As soon as the clutch is operated air enters the system, i am suspecting the master cylinder but it seems to hold pressure with no leaks at 2bar.

Problem solved.

For future ref for anyone suffering the same, when bleeding a 0.9 twinair clutch, you must have the reservoir completely full to the MAX the entire time.

Air was being induced when the level dropped only slightly below the maximum on the fluid level.

I found this so bizzare as the clutch fluid pipe sits at the very bottom of the resi. There does however appear to be two gaps in the reservoir an inch from the top. As soon as fluid goes below these gaps air is induced into the clutch supply line. Absolute torture these things. At least the bleed sorted the notchy clutch. fluid everywhere!

topproff said:

Problem solved.

For future ref for anyone suffering the same, when bleeding a 0.9 twinair clutch, you must have the reservoir completely full to the MAX the entire time.

Air was being induced when the level dropped only slightly below the maximum on the fluid level.

I found this so bizzare as the clutch fluid pipe sits at the very bottom of the resi. There does however appear to be two gaps in the reservoir an inch from the top. As soon as fluid goes below these gaps air is induced into the clutch supply line. Absolute torture these things. At least the bleed sorted the notchy clutch. fluid everywhere!

Click to expand...

Hi, I think I have the same issue with notchy clutch and gear selection. What sort of kit did you use and how is it used? thanks v much

beattiedh said:

What sort of kit did you use

Click to expand...

I use a Sealey VS403. Everything you need is in the box. Probably the least messy way of bleeding vehicle hydraulics.

I think you'd normally pressure bleed (i.e. "push") at the master cylinder end, but vacuum bleed ("pull") at the slave end? Pressure bleeding at the slave end would only work if you could push any air all the way up and out at the master end. Which sounds like (literally) a bit of an uphill struggle!

puntodeltathema said:

I think you'd normally pressure bleed (i.e. "push") at the master cylinder end, but vacuum bleed ("pull") at the slave end?

Click to expand...

Correct.