Paolo66
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- Feb 6, 2013
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So I'm currently sorting through the parts and ordering replacements for those that need replacing and I have a few questions I'm hoping you can help with (sorry there are quite a few!)
My front panel is slightly bent from what looks to be a slight tap on one of the bumper sides. This has slightly pushed in the area where the bumper mounts, and distorted the battery tray, so I’d like to replace both of these. What’s the easiest way to remove the front panel? I presume its spot welded around the inner/lower flange, so do I drill these out and carefully chisel them apart? Where sells the best quality replacement panels? Van der Laan, Alex Gerstl etc.
I am ordering a reconditioned 650cc engine from a 126 along with (I think) a 500R gearbox. I wish to retain the original pedal box and hand choke so I assume that end of the associated cables will need to be the same as a 500 but the 650 version is presumably different (e.g. shorter cables, different ends). Which version will I need to buy?
Also for the starter pull cable, I’ve assumed I’ll need a 126 cable – will this fit the standard 500 pull lever in the cabin?
Also, I assume when fitting a 650 engine I need to blank off the return line from the carb, and fit a standard 500 fuel sender?
Can I do away with the hand throttle cable?
Thanks!
Katie
Katie,
The only company that makes panels is Rhibo and all the parts suppliers have to buy off them. Getting your existing panel off is easy. It is spot welded where you think so if you cut the panel before the flanges and then dress the flanges you will still be left with something to attach the new panel to. Attaching the new panel becomes more difficult as you struggle to weld in the more awkward areas (mainly lower down each wing). They are also a bugger to line up so you end up with nice lines and seams but it can be done with patience and skill.
Lots of us have upgraded to the 650 engine and gearbox so there are loads of threads and experience on here. Make sure you get a 126 starter as it is mounted differently to a 500 and a 126 with cable pull not solenoid. I went with solenoid on mine and did away with the cable start.
There are different ways you can sort out the carb fuel return. I removed mine and blanked off the hole but you must do this properly as you don't want a fuel leak. @thehobbler (Tom) kept his and sent another line into a t-piece and joined this up with the existing line so you are effectively circulating the fuel around. Or you can send it back to tank like a 126 but this requires an extra fuel line routing and the tank sender changing to a 126 one.
You can do away with the hand throttle cable but I don't know why you would. It does come in handy to leave the car sat at a higher idle whilst it warms up.
Damian