Technical Panda 1.1 2006 starting problem
- Thread starter barrycash
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Technical Panda 1.1 2006 starting problem
Greasytrucker
Established member
Does it have 2 individual coil packs? Could be sparking on the one you tried but not all?
Has the timing belt jumped or snapped
Any history of it playing up
Has it stood for a long time or anything unusual
Any history of it playing up
Has it stood for a long time or anything unusual
Yes it's got two coil packs it's an 06
It will start and drive on the flat with only one working
Just will not pull up a gradient
It will start and drive on the flat with only one working
Just will not pull up a gradient
Greasytrucker
Established member
Didn’t realise they’d start on 2. Rules that out then!
Could this be the fuel cutoff switch?
I know OP said fuel arrives at injectors but...
(Under the passenger seat there is a rubber-covered button which may need pressing to reset the fuel cutoff. Can be triggered by potholes, driving off a kerb, or other bump. Does not give a dashboard warning on 1.1 Active)
I know OP said fuel arrives at injectors but...
(Under the passenger seat there is a rubber-covered button which may need pressing to reset the fuel cutoff. Can be triggered by potholes, driving off a kerb, or other bump. Does not give a dashboard warning on 1.1 Active)
Thanks for the suggestions. I had an ignition coil fail a few years ago and that gave me an error code so unlikely. I was wondering if it could be timing, but I would have expected an error code. I'll check the timing belt tomorrow. Also the fuel cut off switch. I didn't realise it had one.
No error code on a 06
If there is a buz from the fuel pump, the inertial switch is fine. The switch is on the pumps motors ground
Fuel system checks upto post 9
Koalar random thoughts | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
Got the car here for a few day 1.2 petrol 2011 Going to post a few pictures and video of some simple and basic tests My well be a bit random as they pop into my head and might sort them into the proper order later
www.fiatforum.com
If the fault is on the control side the computer will detect a open or short and flag an error
If the fault is on the HT side the computer has no feedback
Not that it matters as one coil is enough to make it fire
When you changed the coil did you check the plugs, the coils are normally outlast the car unless they are overstretched with faulty HT leads or gap too large.
Thank you for your suggestions. The Haynes manual doesn't mention the cut off switch at all. It is mentioned in the Owners manual that comes with the car. It says it's under the drivers seat. Thanks to IRC I found it under the passenger seat, which would be the drivers seat in Italy! It wasn't the cause of the problem. So I decided to check if the timing belt was intact and set up correctly.
That's where I seem to have reached my level of incompetance. I jacked the car up and put it in gear. Moving the road wheel should move the timing belt to line up the marks. But it doesn't move. Neither do the pistons. Then I tried operating the inition key. The starter whirls happily and the road wheels move. But the pistons and the timing belt don't. I don't understand.
I've packed up for the day and made a cup of tea. I'm going to try and remember how an engine works unless, dementia has finally set in.
That's where I seem to have reached my level of incompetance. I jacked the car up and put it in gear. Moving the road wheel should move the timing belt to line up the marks. But it doesn't move. Neither do the pistons. Then I tried operating the inition key. The starter whirls happily and the road wheels move. But the pistons and the timing belt don't. I don't understand.
I've packed up for the day and made a cup of tea. I'm going to try and remember how an engine works unless, dementia has finally set in.
As the gearbox has a differential inside, turning one wheel when in gear will not turn the gearbox or engine, a bit like one wheel spinning and the other remains still when stuck in mud.. To turn the engine over you need to use a spanner on the crank shaft pully nut and turn in the normal direction of rotation (easier with spark plugs removed)
We're almost there
You have taken the top timing cover off
Operated the starter
And the belt dosent move
If I read this right
You have taken the top timing cover off
Operated the starter
And the belt dosent move
Thank you Johno. I didn't realise there was a differential in the gearbox. Just tried the starter with it in neutral and the timing belt and pistons moved! Tomorrow I start checking the timing belt position again.
Or only one wheel off the ground.
Greasytrucker
Established member
That’s what i was thinking
That’s how i used to turn the engine over on my classic Mini to do the tappetsYes. That's where I went wrong I couldn't get the offside wheel to move. It was locked solid for some reason, so I thought it must be because the other wheel was still on the ground and jacked that up. The offside wheel still didn't move. I think the brakes must have stuck on. I pulled harder and it released and then it didn't move the timimg belt.
You live and learn, although sometimes it seems I just live!
You live and learn, although sometimes it seems I just live!
If you try this procedure in 1st gear there will be a lot of resistance through the drive train. Third gear would give a better result.
Thank you yolanda. I discovered that this afternoon! Unfortunartely I still haven't discovered why the car won't start. Still, when you retire you need something to keep you occupied
Have you got any further @barrycash
Maybe we should start at the begining
You say that there is fuel at the injectors
How was this tested, you need pressure not just fuel in the rails
You only need fuel, spark, compression happening roughly at the right time for there to be at least some type of firing
Can you hear the fuel pump priming evertime you turn the ignition on
What lights are lit on the dash when you turn the ignition on
What lights are lit on the dash when you crank the engine
Does the rev counter move (if you have one) while cranking
Any history before it failed
Did it stop running and failed to restart
fail to restart after being switched off
Maybe we should start at the begining
You say that there is fuel at the injectors
How was this tested, you need pressure not just fuel in the rails
You only need fuel, spark, compression happening roughly at the right time for there to be at least some type of firing
Can you hear the fuel pump priming evertime you turn the ignition on
What lights are lit on the dash when you turn the ignition on
What lights are lit on the dash when you crank the engine
Does the rev counter move (if you have one) while cranking
Any history before it failed
Did it stop running and failed to restart
fail to restart after being switched off
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Answers
Have you got any further @barrycash no
Maybe we should start at the begining yes
You say that there is fuel at the injectors yes removed fuel rail. petrol present no sign of a blockage
How was this tested, you need pressure not just fuel in the rails depressurised using schrader valve. switched on ignition, system becomes pressurised again.
You only need fuel, spark, compression happening roughly at the right time for there to be at least some type of firing
spark observed at no1 and no 4 plugs
Can you hear the fuel pump priming evertime you turn the ignition on no but fuel rail is pressurised as above
What lights are lit on the dash when you turn the ignition on Brake, battery, oil, EOBD
What lights are lit on the dash when you crank the engine Brake, battery, oil
Does the rev counter move (if you have one) while cranking no rev counter
Any history before it failed no working fine
Did it stop running and failed to restart yes started up, reversed one car length and engine stopped and wouldn't restart
fail to restart after being switched off N/A
I think it may be time to get the ECU tested, although I'm puzzled that there no error codes recorded.
