That looks sexy!
Particularly because you got the furry dice


Some suggestons:
1) If you don't already, get a locking fuel cap - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Locking-Fuel-...s_SM?hash=item29fb88723c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

2) Hoover and wash the inside. Get everything out (floor mats for example) hoover everything, wash the dash down with a damp cloth, then hoover everything again. Get down the back of the seats (I found about £5 in loose coins when I got my car)

3) We need pictures of the engine bay and the crack in the windscreen!

4) Get a radio in there!


Looks like a very nice car.
I wish you many happy years driving in it!

Cheers for the comments

Yeah it already has a locking fuel cap, as for cleaning it i'll do that once i've got the new windscreen and MOT, TAX, etc...Got the MOT booked for next Saturday so hopefully there will be no problems there.

Took some pics of the windscreen (slightly more than the advertised 'crack') and the engine bay.

Here they are:




It's been taped over so that will hopefully stop the majority of any leaks getting in there (if it would leak anyway ?).







Don't look too bad i think !

Crap ! Forgot to resize the last one !

looks a smart little uno!

10/10 for the pics

Good work dude!

Something I noticed- you are missing the exhaust inlet pipe in that first picture of the engine bay. There needs to me a metal tube which fits between the exhaust manifold and the bottom of the air filter box.

The car will run without it, but will run much better with it.

Also, your vacuum advance diaphragm looks old. Might be well worth replacing it - its only £20 or so from shop4parts.

That crack looks horrible
Reckon it was a rock, or something else bigger?

Dont worry about the resizing of pictures - the forum does it automatically.

Your car does genuinely look in excellent condition though!

Once again thanks for the comments.

Reckon they Will pick up on the old vaccum advance diaphragm or the missing exhaust inlet pipe in the MOT ?

...also how much would it cost and how easy would it be to replace both of these parts ?

....thanks !

The pipe from exhaust to air filter box is not needed, it just help in winter so that you don't get carb icing, but most thermostats in the air filter boxes hardly work so the flap wouldn't lift up anyway lol. You'll know what i mean if you open your air filter box up and look inside.

for the MOT you will deffo fail for windscreen but if you have it replaced then no worries. Your vacuum advance unit if broken (most likely) will not advance the timing but shouldn't affect the emissions, i wouldn't of thought so anyway; but it will certainly affect the power of your car. so if the windscreen is the only thing wrong then your car will be fine. Do all obvious checks like lights, the Uno has two fog lights but you only need one to pass so don't worry if ones not working, if you have any sharp edges on the body work then put duct tape over them and it will pass as there not a danger make sure all your dash lights are working as thats a fail and also your numberplate light.

Good luck

Dan

EssexUno said:

...so that you don't get carb icing...

Click to expand...

The SPI (ie) unos don't suffer from Carb icing as the jet of fule comes from an injector . I remember Morty Mort saying his Uno in Finland works without the manifold to air box tube fine at -27 degrees C

the tube will help improve fuel economy a little

Nice buy by the way

stick a small sun strip on for the mot

Looks a great project!

Big clean-up first (uCof is right, it makes a great difference if the inside of the car is really clean), and then a fix-up for that door rust would be a good idea. I think what I said before still stands - wire-brushed out to clean metal and filled with fibre filler, that should last for several years. I reckon another important part of the repair is to swap the window seal rubber from the inside to the outside - the rubber on the outside shrinks and lets in loads of water that leads to the rust.

Then you'll have a smart Uno - that paint looks good, will polish up really well. Great choice of car! And I'm sure you'll be keen to fit some alloys at some stage or even just standard FIAT wheel covers rather than those aftermarket things Rude aren't I!

-Alex

As soon as i get it on the road the first thing i am going to do is fit a decent stereo, afterall the money i've saved by buying it for £90 should easily cover a sound system ! Hopefully i'll get some new wheels for christmas.

...damn !! I just want to drive it now !!!

And, you don't have to spend much these days to pick up a nice stereo.

Pioneer DEH-P3000IB is cheap (NZ$200/£80) and very cool, green illumination, a multi-direction gunmetal knob, nice white text display, direct iPod control (rare at the price) and good sound. It's a lot of class for the money.

Only downsides are that the controls/menus have a 'homemade' feel to them (the microcontroller isn't very responsive and the switches not debounced very well), some simple operations are very fiddly - setting the equaliser takes an hour, for example (but at least it has one!) - and the CD mechanism skipped on a scratched CD that didn't trouble my old Blaupunkt.

JVC do an iPod-control headunit at a similar price but that looks garish and cheap. Good sound though.

To get speakers to work in an Uno, it's best to stiffen up the front speaker mountings in the doors with pieces of MDF and cut holes for 6.5" speakers. Unless you are happy to have most of the sound behind you, in which case the rear side panels of a 3-dr give good acoustics (proved to me in Jai's white Uno Turbo )

I used to budget $1000/£400 for a car sound system - a $500 headunit, $350 front speakers and $150 rear speakers. Now, I'm finding I get surprising sound quality for only $400/£160 total - $200 headunit, $120 front component speakers, $80 rear speakers.

And then there are the pocket-money setups I've done - a second-hand $1 headunit (Blaupunkt tape with auxiliary-in), $20 unbranded speakers, MB Quart speakers taken out of another upgraded car - and there you go. I think second-hand head units are a great choice, particularly if you can find something old and expensive like a Blaupunkt with a line-in.

Currently parked outside I have a Mitsubishi Evolution IV which just proves what a rubbish sound system can be. The head unit is many years old and has tiny, confusing buttons. The factory front speakers are toast, the factory rear speakers still working and producing muffled sound, and in the boot is a stupid 12" sub that rattles the bootlid and exists in a world of its own, with absolutely nothing bridging the gap between sub-bass and the mid-range sound produced by the speakers. When it drives by, there is no doubt the car has a sub, but it does nothing for the music inside the car... The subwoofer should be the icing on the cake when the other speakers are already doing 9/10ths of the job. To begin a system with the subwoofer(s) is crazy. Just my thoughts

-Alex

I got an awesome Sony headunit.
Has USB slot and an Aux-in (3.5mm jack). All my music is on a usb stick that follows me.

Was sub £100 the christmas before last.

Hi guys went for the MOT this morning here's what's wrong with it (i'm just going to copy what it says on the sheet):

Nearside front tyre tread depth below requirement

Nearside front constant velocity joint gaiter split

Nearside rear (underbody sill) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded.

Parking brake lever has no reserve travel

Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort

Nearside rear brake recording little or no effort

Parking brake efficiency below requirements

...So then what do you think/how much will this lot cost ?

Oh and strangely enough it didn't fail on the windscreen, he didn't even mention it !

I'm going to add some comments to your post in red:

Mr_Uno said:

Hi guys went for the MOT this morning here's what's wrong with it (i'm just going to copy what it says on the sheet):

Nearside front tyre tread depth below requirement

Buy new/ part worn tyre!

Nearside front constant velocity joint gaiter split

Replace CV gaitor.

Nearside rear (underbody sill) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded.

Need some pictures to see how much corrosion is present. Obviously this will need attention from a skilled welder

Parking brake lever has no reserve travel

Adjust parking (hand) brake!

Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort

Nearside rear brake recording little or no effort

Sounds like the hardbrake needs adjusting (as above) or you need new shoes. They often wear more on one side hence the N/S rear brake also being inefficient. Worst case scenario is a new wheel brake cylinder, which costs around £10 - £15 and new shoes - approx. £15 - £20.

Parking brake efficiency below requirements

Adjust/ replace shoes as above!

...So then what do you think/how much will this lot cost ?

Oh and strangely enough it didn't fail on the windscreen, he didn't even mention it !

Click to expand...

Right, so not a bad fail list at all really for an old Uno. As for approximate costs, I reckon you'll be looking at:

Tyre - £20 - £30 fitted. Cheaper for part worn though a new budget tyre won't cost much more.

CV gaitor - gaitor itself costs around £10 (motor factors). Fitting about £30 - £40 depending on the garage.

Rear parking brakes - if you're lucky then it may just be the handbrake needing adjusting (there's a threaded bar underneath the car with two lock nuts). This only applies if the shoes haven't worn excessively. Otherwise just replace the shoes for peace of mind, a set will cost around £15. Again, a garage will fit them for around £30 - £40.

Welding - this is more difficult to quantify without seeing where it is needed and how bad the corrosion is. The more parts that need dismantelling to get to the damaged area the more it will cost. you could save money by removing most of the parts yourself and having a mobile welder come over to do the work. At a wild guess I'm reckoning that you'll need to pay a mininum of £50 for this job though I'm guessing more like £75.

Looking at the more expensive side of the having the work done you could be looking at:

Tyre - £30
CV Gaitor - £50
Rear parking brakes (shoes and fitting) - £50
Wheel cylinder - £15
Welding - £75

So a maximum of £220 will get your Uno roadworthy. Alternatively you could try and find a good independent garage to do most/ all the work and they'll probably discount it some more. If you have mechanical skills you could do the tyre, CV gaitor and rear brakes yourself and only pay for parts (get the parts from a motor factor and NOT Fiat!)

Oh, and the windscreen may have passed if the crack was outside the swept area but I'm surprised they let it through with that much damage. I'd get it replaced anyway for peace of mind

Hope this helps and good luck!

Was typing out to that effect Chas,

Only thing I’d say about “Nearside rear brake recording little or no effort” / “
Parking brake efficiency below requirements” is probably the leavers seized, not the shoes as the service (foot) brake would have failed too if it were the shoes.

https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/158390-uno-good-handbrake-last.html

Thanks for the quick reply !

Yeah it don't seem too bad considering i bought it for £90.

I'll replace the brake shoes and adjust the handbrake myself, as for the gaiter someone told me you can buy kits off ebay for £10 or so and repair it yourself ?

i'll be going for the cheapest of the cheap part worn tyre just to get it through.

The only part of this fail that remotely concerns me is the corrosion part, it seems a little unclear as to what is actually corroded. I've looked underneath there and i can't see any rust at all, could it be an actual part of the suspension that has corroded rather than the car itself ? (if you get what i mean)

I'll enquire at some local garages to see what it would cost for them to do it all, may save some time as i've only got 10 days for a free retest !

Louie Bee said:

Only thing I’d say about “Nearside rear brake recording little or no effort” / “
Parking brake efficiency below requirements” is probably the leavers seized, not the shoes as the service (foot) brake would have failed too if it were the shoes.

https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/158390-uno-good-handbrake-last.html

Click to expand...

Mr_Uno said:

Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort

Nearside rear brake recording little or no effort

Click to expand...

Mr_Uno said:

Thanks for the quick reply !

Click to expand...

Press the thumbs up "thanks" button if a post was helpful to you

Mr_Uno said:

The only part of this fail that remotely concerns me is the corrosion part, it seems a little unclear as to what is actually corroded. I've looked underneath there and i can't see any rust at all, could it be an actual part of the suspension that has corroded rather than the car itself ? (if you get what i mean)

Click to expand...

The fail sheet mentioned the sill, so I'm guessing it's the sill area underneath and to rear of the car (nearside - passenger side). That area is also within the prescribed area of the rear beam/ axle mounting hence the fail. If it's just the sill then the repair would be much more simple compared with welding the actual mounting point itself.

Have a look in that area for yellow chalk marks as I'm sure the MOT tester should mark where the welding is needed.

Took some pics of where i think the rust is, i don't know whether i have completely misunderstood but here are the pics anyway:








....can't see any markings under there at all, the bloke at the test centre was not very helpful at all. Just kept repeating what the sheet said when i asked questions !

EDIT: Don't have the jack at the minute so i dragged myself under there hence why the pics aren't great.

thats not the rust, it will be just behind the sill lip i would guess.

and dont buy cv gaitor repair kit, get a proper one fitted, do it your self if you have the tools, its 2 bolts basicly, only special tool needed would be a ball joint splitter but seeing as its offroad atm, you can try and do it without first, and if all else fails get it done at a garage but you shouldnt have a problem.