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General MK2 Blue Turbo Thread

faster4_tec

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Well a few weeks ago I bought a 1990 uno turbo mk2 on H plate, in that loverly bluey greeny mettalic colour.
Her body was mean't to be fairly rott free, it wasn't.
her engine was mean't to be sound and compeltly standard, it wasn't.
her interior was mean't to 'require cleaning up', it wasn't, it was IMMACULATE :cool:


not the best pictures, but she roughly look's like...

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I won't post pictures of all the rust, but basically she's structurally sound, bodywork at the rear end has erm, a lot :eek: to be desired.

basically to get it sorted and back on the road (it JUST passed an MOT with no mention of the rott/rust, which is unbelivable!) its gonna need...

new/spare passenger side door/door bottom
drivers side rear 1/4 wing panel ideally, repair panel maybe.
passenger side repair panel/some metal working brilliance.
rear panel
some paint
fix exhaust leak
maybe recon/replace turbo
rake out the engine bay and start it again as I have no idea whats been done. I ideally want it ALL standard, no/very few modifications, and a standard engine (mainly for insurance/MPG purposes).


Wish me luck (y)
 
Day 1

I prob won't update as many times as dunc's thread. However i will post pictures of carnage, and "eau' de uno" otherwise known as big piles of loose rusty metal...

Today I got the rear bumper off, took longer than expected (spinning & rotton bolts:rolleyes: ). but came away without damage to the bumper.

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as you can see, that rear panel (I HOPE this is what this panel is) is absolute toast, so next stage is to carefully cut it out and order a new one :)

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here you can clearly see that every other rear end panel is SOLID, not even surface rust (thats rust dust from the dead panel) which is odd. but at least it keeps it simple ('ish)

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the other side tells the same storey, this rusty rear panel much be the worst on the car. i was expecting the rust to have crept into the other panels, but it hasn't :worship:
 
Looks like mine mate! lol

If your serious about this one then keep it, but im reshelling mine (Its my road Uno Turbo as i have a project one so aslong as its a mk2 Uno with the turbo engine, then its a UT too me)

If you need a standard engine bay pictures, mail me as mine is COMPLETLY standard! (y)
 
correction, were £100 from fiat, can get a pattern part (proabbly better metal LOL) for £17 inc vat :eek:

and found a place that does the rear arch repair panels (just called an arch) for around £12 inc vat each.

lol fooking hell! partern part here you come!

yeah, my arches were about £12. bought em as spares in case i ever need em lol

Dunc
 
That picture doesn't bode well for the rest of the car, find a better model, strip it and transfer the parts over, probably save alot of time.

I'm currently stripping my Strada and it's surprisingly easy not looking forward to removing the rear arms, they look like they haven't moved in years, those bolt have probably turned to cheese and will round off at the first sight of a wrench, no chance of reshelling that though.
 
find me a good local uno shell and I would do it :) I'm still mulling my options over.

today, I ripped the nasty little bleed valve off and threw it in a corner :) LOL

then I checked the turbo bearings out, and the news is good. no forwards backwards play, and a tinee weenie bit of up and down (y)
however there was quite a bit of oil in there. so I'm ordering an oil seal kit.
 
this one had about a metre of poor grade pipe attached to it, causing some nasty spiking, TBH the engine is overall fine, trying to concentrate on stabilsing the bodywork from getting any worse.
when I get it back on the road and running as it should do I will play with the boost, but right now I just want it all nice and smooth.


also got to ask. as I'm looking at the engine, on the top left of the intake plenum/manifold there is a sensor, with two prongs. is this the boost/fuel cut sensor? just it was unplugged so reckon thats what it was.
 
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New rear panel required! will you be replacing it yourself? we get 3 0r 4 hours at work to replace them, which is about £100ish, try and find a local bodyshop and enquire about the work you need doing, as has been said you could pick up a mint very late mk2 for a couple of hundred pounds, and transplant if you had the time and space, have a real good look at the rest of the shell lift all the carpets and see, Ant! heres a pic of my workbay and a 18k welder (how much?) i'l search for a rear panel that ive replaced, and show you step by step,
 

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Well I've seen enough.

its not worth doing, reshell time :( :)

good news is.. the rear of th floorpan inc wheel well is solid, apart from 1inch of weld between inner arch and wheel well.
VERY bad news is, that crunching under the carpet was infact... horrific rott to the floorpan in rear foot wells, looks like the jacking points have been pushed right thru the floor at one point (YEARS ago) then replaced and new ones welded in, then oversprayed/floorpan sealed over in that black rubber stuff.

so yeah, it takes it from barely worth it what with the rear panel and all, to this shell being scrap in my mind.

someone point me in the direction of a nice 3dr mk2 shell, any colour under £200 please :) :)

wheel well = good, all that rust in here is just rusty water from cleaning th (not so great) welds on the plates.
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the BAD

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and the VERY ugly
 

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You guys are lucky you have a ready supply of parts for your cars. Over here if we had rust like that we would chop it out with some tin snips, then use the skin off an old door or something to make up a replacement panel, then weld it in place. I've done it lots of times now, and it is amazingly successful, the replacement part is just as strong, and as long as you clean and paint it, it will last for ages. At the moment my metal source is a front wing off an Uno, when that’s gone I've still got the bonnet off the same crashed Uno to chop up :).

To be honest those rust holes don't look that bad, I recon I could have them fixed in an afternoon or two (much faster than doing a re-shell). My method is to create the replacement part the same shape but with about a 3mm overlap, then I place the replacement on the inside of the repair and spot weld it in place (if its something important like a sill I'll weld all around). Once that’s done you etch prime it, fill it, sand it, paint it (both sides).

A re-shell you are looking at weeks of evenings and afternoons, and your shell generally looks pretty good. Also I like to think of this as a learning experience, if I didn’t try welding my Uno I’d not know how to weld (its not like you’re doing a rust repair on your Testarossa).
 
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