Technical X244 Front Brake Pad change

[scottalej]

I have a grinding noise coming from the front brakes and am trying to remove the calipers (two hose type). I removed the 6mm top retaining allen bolts no problem but both lowers are seized. Looking for previous advice on here and found this information attached below. This mentions 14mm hex bolts fixing the brake caliper but as I say mine are 6mm allen head. The 14mm hex is surely the for the caliper bracket onto the hub and should not need to be removed for pad replacement?

Anyway assuming this is the case, how can I remove the lower 6mm caliper bolts? Penetrating fluid and heat?


Remove the front wheel.
- Steer inwards so the caliper is pointing outwards & is easier to work on.
1. Disconnect the brake pipe bands from the support.
2. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor.
3. Undo the bolts fixing the brake caliper. (14mm Hex)
The bolts fixing the brake caliper are self-locking and should always be replaced each time they are undone or loosened.
4. Remove the brake caliper without disconnecting the brake pipes.
The pistons will have to be returned to their fully retracted position in the caliper so the new thicker pads can be fitted. There are special tools but "G" clamps can be improvised instead. - The master cylinder cap should be loosened to allow for the overflow of fluid when resetting the caliper pistons. Don't forget to retighten cap on completion.
The brake pads should be replaced if the friction material is less than 1.5 mm thick.
- Place the brake pads in position.
- Place the brake caliper in position.
- Tighten the bolts fixing the brake caliper.
- Connect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor.
- Connect the brake pipe bands to the support.
- Refit the wheel. Repeat operation for the opposite side caliper.
- Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the pads in & Check that the brakes are working.

 

[Yolanda]

Heat will be the answer however if you're hearing a grinding noise chances are the disc's will be damaged end need replacing.

 

[Communicator]

I have a grinding noise coming from the front brakes and am trying to remove the calipers (two hose type). I removed the 6mm top retaining allen bolts no problem but both lowers are seized. Looking for previous advice on here and found this information attached below. This mentions 14mm hex bolts fixing the brake caliper but as I say mine are 6mm allen head. The 14mm hex is surely the for the caliper bracket onto the hub and should not need to be removed for pad replacement?

Anyway assuming this is the case, how can I remove the lower 6mm caliper bolts? Penetrating fluid and heat?


Remove the front wheel.
- Steer inwards so the caliper is pointing outwards & is easier to work on.
1. Disconnect the brake pipe bands from the support.
2. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor.
3. Undo the bolts fixing the brake caliper. (14mm Hex)
The bolts fixing the brake caliper are self-locking and should always be replaced each time they are undone or loosened.
4. Remove the brake caliper without disconnecting the brake pipes.
The pistons will have to be returned to their fully retracted position in the caliper so the new thicker pads can be fitted. There are special tools but "G" clamps can be improvised instead. - The master cylinder cap should be loosened to allow for the overflow of fluid when resetting the caliper pistons. Don't forget to retighten cap on completion.
The brake pads should be replaced if the friction material is less than 1.5 mm thick.
- Place the brake pads in position.
- Place the brake caliper in position.
- Tighten the bolts fixing the brake caliper.
- Connect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor.
- Connect the brake pipe bands to the support.
- Refit the wheel. Repeat operation for the opposite side caliper.
- Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the pads in & Check that the brakes are working.

The above procedure appears to be based on the eLearn procedure for removing the caliper, rather than pad changing. The procedures are similar, so perhaps the wrong one was posted in error. Common sense dictates that it should not be necessary to remove the caliper mounting when changing the pads.

Have you considered using an impact wrench or driver to loosen the stuck caliper fixing. While I have seen heat used many times in a garage, I would be wary because of the risk of overheating other components. If you can get penetrating fluid into the right place, I would try this, perhaps with an impact driver after allowing adequate time for the fluid to seep in. Perhaps two applications?

If you succeed in removing the stuck bolt, and need to retract the caliper piston, I have read a sugestion for allowing the surplus fluid to drain via the bleed nipple, rather than pushing possibly contaminated fluid into the ABS unit, if fitted.