Technical Woop woop woop any ideas?

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Technical Woop woop woop any ideas?

AndersLS

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Woop woop woop any ideas?
Hello forum. I have a wooping sound coming from left rear area of my 1969. I dont think its the wheel bearing…that would be a constant whirring sound.

It starts at around 60kmh……the second I remove my foot from the speeder pedal it disappears for a while….then comes back. If I am accelerating, there is no wooping. When the speed becomes constant, the wooping sneaks in…..

Sounds like bouncing tire/screaching….are the shocks bad? Anything else perhaps? Thanks…
 
Hello forum. I have a wooping sound coming from left rear area of my 1969. I dont think its the wheel bearing…that would be a constant whirring sound.

It starts at around 60kmh……the second I remove my foot from the speeder pedal it disappears for a while….then comes back. If I am accelerating, there is no wooping. When the speed becomes constant, the wooping sneaks in…..

Sounds like bouncing tire/screaching….are the shocks bad? Anything else perhaps? Thanks…
Hi Anders, this could be a worn drive shaft flexible coupling (at the outboard end of the drive shaft) not easy to get hold of, but check for any movement at the coupling - change Both sides when replacing.
Ian.
 
Daaaaaaaammmmnnnnn….I have just been under the car. The left rear shock is completely blown out! I could spin it from beneath with my fingers. Not good. Anyway…now I know! I will change shocks, flexi’s, and bearings while I ‘in there’.
The flexible bushings had no play…they were stiff.
 
Hi Anders, this could be a worn drive shaft flexible coupling (at the outboard end of the drive shaft) not easy to get hold of, but check for any movement at the coupling - change Both sides when replacing.
Ian.
Well Done Anders, sometimes getting under the car is the best way, sounds like your plan is a good one.
Ian.
Morning Anders:-- If the alloy/rubber couplings are in good condition my advice would be to leave them alone---changing the couplings and the bearings is not a 5-minute job, and getting the 'between-the-bearings-spacer' correctly crushed and to the correct rotational torque is a 'pain-in-the-bum' job. You will obviously need to change the dampers (change the pair) and whilst you are under the car (ON STANDS!) check the sliding couplings and give the splines a good greasing, with a good grease, but NOT 'Copperslip'
 
Yes…thanks. It is a big job. Most important is to change that blown out shock. Will I have to disconnect the drive axles to lower the ‘triangle’ so I can get the shock out? Or is there enough’play’ to change shock without disconnecting axles? Of course carefully due to the spring….
I have good grease for the bearing job…..
I have of course seen a few videos on the ‘tube’ regarding the rear bearing change…..
 
This could also be a distorted brake drum.
I have a similar sound coming from mine which i need to investigate.
If i drive along on the throttle there is hardly a sound. When i lift off the noise starts.
When i brake the sound goes, so i am suspecting brakes. I have new shoes, springs & cylinders.
They were the old drums and although didnt look badly worn they could be slightly distorted causing high and low spots as the wheel rotates.
 
Hi Anders, yes you should be able to change the shockers without disconnecting the driveshafts. Get the car on stands and then compress the rear spring/shocker assembly with a jack (carefully) under the triangle, when you have taken up the tension of the spring carefully get inside (or have someone inside) and undo the top shocker nut under the rear seat, then lower the triangle to release the spring and shocker assembly. Mine came apart this way easily, But I do have shorter springs so you may need more movement.
Ian.
 
I changed all the shocks today. I checked and greased the flexi’ coupling and bearings. All looked good.

2 of the shocks were totally finished/blown. One was iffy…the last one was kinda workin’. Good thing they got changed!

I did a test drive…no more wooping! Yes……happy camper now🤠👍
 
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