Hi 1.6 petrol 2004, Car was idling lumpy this morning and revs were low, took car for 15 mile trip and it drove fine. But after 1/2 hour away it wouldn't start just like it had a flat battery all the dash lights worked but not enough juice to turn the engine. So i had to walk and get a set of jump leads when i got back ( about 15 mins ) i tried the ignition again just to make sure and it started. drove home and checked battery connections they were all fine but it still runs lumpy and low revs about 600rpm, also the exhaust is putting out grey/white fumes. i put the battery on charge just to be sure and when i re-connected after about 5 hours charge it is now idiling correct. Any ideas suggestions welcome thanks.
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Technical Wont start...
- Thread starter tedmunds
- Start date
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Technical Wont start...
Check the earths from the battery and make sure that they aren't corroded at the chassis/engine end.
If necessary, run a new earth to any suitable mounting point to definitively eliminate earthing as an issue.
Also check the ECU connections, if the pollen filter hasn't been fitted correctly at some point - this can cause water to leak in above the ECU.
Check the alternator is charging, normally switching the lights on and then starting the car and holding 1500-2000rpm see brighter lights, or use a multimeter to check.
I'd also get the battery checked in case a cell is on the way out.
If necessary, run a new earth to any suitable mounting point to definitively eliminate earthing as an issue.
Also check the ECU connections, if the pollen filter hasn't been fitted correctly at some point - this can cause water to leak in above the ECU.
Check the alternator is charging, normally switching the lights on and then starting the car and holding 1500-2000rpm see brighter lights, or use a multimeter to check.
I'd also get the battery checked in case a cell is on the way out.
steverich
New member
Hey.
I got something very similar!
After an all night charge My battery goes flat after just 3 or 4 starts!
had battery checked... OK.
putting out 12.44v ......engine off
only 12 (ish) v when running ???
after a long run there is not enough power to turn it over again?? (and thats after an all night charge!!):bang:
see my last post on different thread: https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/290120-left-indicator-flashing-fast-when-brakes-pressed.html
I got something very similar!
After an all night charge My battery goes flat after just 3 or 4 starts!
had battery checked... OK.
putting out 12.44v ......engine off
only 12 (ish) v when running ???
after a long run there is not enough power to turn it over again?? (and thats after an all night charge!!):bang:
see my last post on different thread: https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/290120-left-indicator-flashing-fast-when-brakes-pressed.html
Assuming Lead Acid
- testing the gravity of the acid with a hydrometer, will not tell you how good [capacity in AH] the battery condition is
- only a sustained load test can do that, voltage on a fully charged battery should read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery
- electrolyte at the bottom of the cell is stronger, weaker at the top where you actually test, its called stratification
- electronic lead / acid testers are better than they used to be, but a load~tester with megga resister coils works better
- at 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less
- specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell
Assuming, you are not 'leaking' output current from alternator to battery I agree with momoe & snoo. Ask around for an old fashioned garage / tyre fitting place who flogs batteries they usually have one of the old big two prong load tester lying around. [not motorist shops & boutique parts sellers]
Careful where you buy from, I just bought an S5 two weeks ago delivered before 8am for £85, Halfords and others were £130 for the exact same kit.
- testing the gravity of the acid with a hydrometer, will not tell you how good [capacity in AH] the battery condition is
- only a sustained load test can do that, voltage on a fully charged battery should read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery
- electrolyte at the bottom of the cell is stronger, weaker at the top where you actually test, its called stratification
- electronic lead / acid testers are better than they used to be, but a load~tester with megga resister coils works better
- at 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less
- specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell
Assuming, you are not 'leaking' output current from alternator to battery I agree with momoe & snoo. Ask around for an old fashioned garage / tyre fitting place who flogs batteries they usually have one of the old big two prong load tester lying around. [not motorist shops & boutique parts sellers]
Careful where you buy from, I just bought an S5 two weeks ago delivered before 8am for £85, Halfords and others were £130 for the exact same kit.
O.K managed to spend some more time on car today, battery terminals connections and earths all ok. However first turn of the key dash lights and engine test all ok no problems turned key to start.....nothing.Second turn car started..... i took the car for a spin it was lumpy at idle and poor pick up, i got a couple of miles from home and the temperature gauge had shot right up, so i checked the header tank which was empty. I'm guessing that the head gasket has gone ( car has done 77k ) and water is getting into a cylinder hence the lumpy idle and poor pick up, that would also explain the smokey ( steam ) exhaust as it dosen't smell and my hand is wet if i put it over the end of the exhaust. Any other explanations welcome and how hard is the head gasket to replace, i have replaced head gaskets before but on older cars minis, escorts etc.
O.K managed to spend some more time on car today, battery terminals connections and earths all ok. However first turn of the key dash lights and engine test all ok no problems turned key to start.....nothing.Second turn car started..... i took the car for a spin it was lumpy at idle and poor pick up, i got a couple of miles from home and the temperature gauge had shot right up, so i checked the header tank which was empty. I'm guessing that the head gasket has gone ( car has done 77k ) and water is getting into a cylinder hence the lumpy idle and poor pick up, that would also explain the smokey ( steam ) exhaust as it dosen't smell and my hand is wet if i put it over the end of the exhaust. Any other explanations welcome and how hard is the head gasket to replace, i have replaced head gaskets before but on older cars minis, escorts etc.
Quite alot to take off as such I reckon there over engineered , you will need locking tools to time up and there is a special tool to tension cambelt
I have bled the radiator with the top bleed screw, loads of air came out and heater is now blowing really hot air ( i just thought the heater was crap ) also car now idles nicely, also added coolant sealer have taken car for a good run and all seems o.k no more smoke (steam) from exhaust either. Hopefully it was just a big air lock.
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