Technical Wiring question.

[mad saint uden]

BGood morning,

Long time no post (6-7 years since the last time!!)

I'm wondering if any one can help me please.

I have fiat panda active eco 1.1 2010.

2 years ago I got a problem, when I put my foot on the break, while indicating, the internal light and clicker for the indicators would go at double speed - but not the indicators themsleves...Also if breaking while the windscreen wipers were on, the rear one would come on also.

Fiat, said my wiring loom was needing replacement (£3.5k) but did a temp fix (£500) which I later discovered was some wires under my bonnet being gaffer taped to various other wires to hold them up.

After 18m the problem returned (the tape had degraded) and I fixed it with 3 cable ties.

The problem has returned again...but this time I can see no wires that are in the way (I can't get under my car as it is too low & we don't own any jacks).

Two questions.

If I don't fix it and live with the problems...what is the worst case scenario? If I sheer the mystry cable one day while driving....is it that the internal light doesn't work? that the entire indicator stops? all my electrics give up? car goes bang?

Do you feel the quote & type of work (replacing complete wiring loom) sounds accurate?

Thank you for any help you may give.

Anita.

 

[koalar]

common problem

the centre pin has corroded on the "REAR" light cluster connector leading to High resistance and eventually heat and melting


I posted a picture recently, let me see if I can dig it up

 

[mad saint uden]

Thank you.

Any ideas of repair costs? Or likely outcome if left?

 

[koalar]

Here's my burnt connect

all three of my panda's I have owned have failed at lest on one side sometimes both


as shown there's a bar that pops up and you can pull out the terminal and straighten, clean and put back.


a smear of petroleum gel will stop it happening again


A auto electrician can cut it off and crimp a new one on for a few pounds there's enough cable to do this. I have the equipment to do this but have never bothered and never had one fail again


https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/489674-rear-light-connector.html?p=4614233

 

[jrkitching]

Any ideas of repair costs? Or likely outcome if left?

Depends a lot on how whoever repairs it goes about it.

You already know what a franchised dealer would do; replace the entire loom at a cost that's several times the value of the car. So that isn't a realistic option.

Keen DIY types with soldering skills could likely fix it themselves for little or nothing, depending on what scrap wiring and connectors they have in their spares bin.

For the rest, finding an auto electrician would likely be the best way forward; they'll identify exactly what parts of the wiring are unsound, and patch new cable in where necessary. Depending on how much needs doing, I'd guess they'd charge somewhere in the region of £50-£150.

General purpose independent garages can be a bit hit or miss when it comes to electrics; some can cope well (especially with the simpler jobs); others will just call in the local autosparky and add a premium, so unless you're sure your local garage can do this themselves, you'd be better just going to an electrical specialist in the first place and cutting out the middleman.

 

[mad saint uden]

Thanks both.

I just wanted to confirm - having googled the rear cluster connector and watched YouTube...

My lights flash as normal.

It is just the light inside on the dash that flashes erratically and only when my foot is on the brake...

If it is the connector, that actually looks do able...I can build a computer but my stepson does soldering...

 

[koalar]

no one should charge more than 1/2 hour

parts are a few pence

if left the connector will melt more and be more difficult to repair. Worse case is chop out the old and slice in a new connector

probably charge about 1 hour and £5-£10 in parts


If left


police will pull you
more difficult to repair
fail its MOT

I have never known a catastrophic failure here, but why take the chance, get it fixed


You should be able to tell which side needs fixing by looking at the rear of the car while someone operates the brake or lights with the indicator. It usually dims slightly

 

[mad saint uden]

Just to confirm...

The indicators work fine...how would the police know that the green light on my dash display is flashhing at twice the speed of the indicator?

It has already passed one MOT with the problem apparent. I had the temp repair in place for the next one.

 

[mad saint uden]

How would I know which side to repair? Both sides work as normal...it is the display on the dash that changes with braking, not the indicators themsleves?

 

[koalar]

How would I know which side to repair? Both sides work as normal...it is the display on the dash that changes with braking, not the indicators themsleves?

you need someone at the back of the car while the brake is operated

the dimmer side or side that fluctuates is the faulty side. You can't tell from the drivers seat or looking at the reflection on a wall


If I am on my own I set up a mirror. No doubt a video shot on a mobile would also work


from memory my dash flashes normally until the brake is applied then speeds up or was it the other way

 

[jrkitching]

no one should charge more than 1/2 hour

For sure, that's all it should take to just replace a rear light connector.

But the OP is talking about a previous bodge repair to underbonnet wiring; in view of this, I think we need to be open minded about exactly what needs doing until it's been properly inspected.

 

[mad saint uden]

you need someone at the back of the car while the brake is operated

Both my husband and stepson have done this various times, and I've had them in the car while I look.

IT would appear there is no change to the output of any of the lights.

 

[koalar]

Both my husband and stepson have done this various times, and I've had them in the car while I look.

IT would appear there is no change to the output of any of the lights.

the only option is to pop off each light cluster connector one at a time inspect and see if the brake effects the dash

its a pretty simple system

a wire goes out from the body computer to each bulb.

The only connection to the brake is at the earth at each light cluster front and rear

 

[koalar]

I missed this bit


"Also if breaking while the windscreen wipers were on, the rear one would come on also"



are you sure the temporary. fix was at the front.



this is also a classic symptom of either the rear light cluster connector or the black earthing block bolted to the chassis at the rear

 

[mad saint uden]

Thank you all.

I'm going to be really sheepish now...

But this time I got my husband to sit in the car do the things, while I looked at the lights instead of the other way around.

Turns out the the rear passenger lights are in fact not working correctly. The brake light on that side flashes instead of the indicator when the brake is pressed.

 

[koalar]

Thank you all.

I'm going to be really sheepish now...

But this time I got my husband to sit in the car do the things, while I looked at the lights instead of the other way around.

Turns out the the rear passenger lights are in fact not working correctly. The brake light on that side flashes instead of the indicator when the brake is pressed.

excellent, well done.

most likely the centre pin of that side light cluster connector burnt or corroded

got a Black wire running to it

had to repair pretty much ever Fiat and Suzuki plus a few old fords for this

 

[mad saint uden]

I've found a nice chap who came to the house and did a quick repair...his explination was the same as the one you guys gave...I've had to order a new connector plug (from ebay) and once that arrives he will fix it on. Great price and lovely chap.

So thank you all for your help in answering my question - problem solved.

 

[DaveMcT]

Back in the mists of time I replaced a light connector using heat shrink sleeve and a wire stripper. Each one was cut and a heat shrink fitted then the bare wires were twisted, folded flat and the sleeves put over and shrunk. It was intended as a temporary fix as I had no power for soldering. At least a year later, I got around to soldering and found the joints were so well spliced there was no point. They were more secure (and waterproof) than the inline crimps sold for the job.

 

[portland_bill]

Thank you all.

I'm going to be really sheepish now...

But this time I got my husband to sit in the car do the things, while I looked at the lights instead of the other way around.

Turns out the the rear passenger lights are in fact not working correctly. The brake light on that side flashes instead of the indicator when the brake is pressed.

That's the trouble with men, we can't be trusted.
Glad it being sorted, well done.