Technical Weber Carb Question

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Technical Weber Carb Question

alfapop

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While birddogging a different problem I notice that the brass nipple on the Weber, where you attach the incoming fuel line, leaks fuel. And I can wiggle it a bit back and forth. I don't want to break it by doing the wrong thing so I need to know how to fix this. Does it unscrew so I can then put on some teflon tape and screw it back in? Does it just pull out? Is it supposed to be permanently fixed? Any carb experts out there have a recommendation? And (thinking of my other issue) can this loose nipple, that leaks, prevent the car from running smoothly or even starting? Thanks all.
 
While birddogging a different problem I notice that the brass nipple on the Weber, where you attach the incoming fuel line, leaks fuel. And I can wiggle it a bit back and forth. I don't want to break it by doing the wrong thing so I need to know how to fix this. Does it unscrew so I can then put on some teflon tape and screw it back in? Does it just pull out? Is it supposed to be permanently fixed? Any carb experts out there have a recommendation? And (thinking of my other issue) can this loose nipple, that leaks, prevent the car from running smoothly or even starting? Thanks all.
This wasn't unusual on older carbs where the brass part was pressed in, from memory Solex carbs etc. Maybe your Weber is the same?
We used to take the spigot out and very lightly tin it with solder and flux etc. just enough to make it a good fit if care was taken when driving it back in.
We used the same method when on reaming king pin bushes with adjustable reamer and took a little too much metal off, by tinning the outside of the bush we could refit it and save buying another king pin repair kit.
 
This wasn't unusual on older carbs where the brass part was pressed in, from memory Solex carbs etc. Maybe your Weber is the same?
We used to take the spigot out and very lightly tin it with solder and flux etc. just enough to make it a good fit if care was taken when driving it back in.
We used the same method when on reaming king pin bushes with adjustable reamer and took a little too much metal off, by tinning the outside of the bush we could refit it and save buying another king pin repair kit.
Yes, or remove carb complete, leave the ‘spigot’ in and prop carb/spigot upright and ‘run’ solder in-situ, like you would with copper plumbing…and yes, always remember more issues with solex than Weber
 
And is it possible, or likely, that the reason the car won't run smoothly is because air is being sucked in from around this spigot and preventing the engine from getting the required amount of fuel?
 
And is it possible, or likely, that the reason the car won't run smoothly is because air is being sucked in from around this spigot and preventing the engine from getting the required amount of fuel?
If fuel can get out, air can get in
 
If we are talking about the fuel inlet to the float chamber of the carburetor from the fuel pump and the brass spigot in question is the one the fuel hose from the pump is attached to , then my main concern would be petrol leaking out of it over a hot engine.:)
 
Bugsymike and Porta - Thank you both and I agree with both. Leaving now for a 4 day trip without cell/computer access so if you comment further I will not be able to respond for a while. But thank you both and I will report back after addressing the problem and let you know how it went.
 
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