Technical Waterpump replacement (Question)

[Ricon]

As you will know if you have read Idiot v's british weather, I have recently had my cambelt replaced on my 60SX.

I was told by the garage that they would check my water pump and replace if need be, however need be, and they still didn't bother. So I'm going to go for it myself, what with being keen to learn mechanics and also being tight fisted.

The question is, I know so much that I have to remove the cam belt and just unbolt the pump, gasket and re-fit new, everything back on and away, however the one thing I don't know and can't find out anywhere is:-

Would removing my cambelt, without moving the car in anyway at all, would it knock my timing out as that is something I'm not sure I could do?

Thanks
Ricon

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi,
best bet is get the covers off the cam-belt area,
clean around the top + bottom pulleys with a rag -you should see the cam-belt had clearly visible writing and a couple of marks (lines across it's width),
slowly turn over the engine - easiest is with the car in is gear - push car back / forward until the belts marks coincide with the notches in the pulleys, it may take several turns of engine to get the marks in line,
carefully take the car out of gear,
double-check the marks,

it should then be safe to undo the tensioner., the valve-gear it at a "neutral -tension" so should NOT move ,
the engine will not move - because it's in neutral and You've disconnected the battery,

Look in the GUIDES for CinQ / or punto for pictures..,
https://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecento-seicento-guides/100553-cam-belt-change.html

if you are careful you should be able to leave the alternator in place - just slipping the de-tensioned cam-belt off the waterpump pulley,

Bleeding the coolant system is a bit of a nuisance BUT there a GUIDE for that too, have fun..!!

Charlie

 

[MadMan0]

Hi,
best bet is get the covers off the cam-belt area,
clean around the top + bottom pulleys with a rag -you should see the cam-belt had clearly visible writing and a couple of marks (lines across it's width),
slowly turn over the engine - easiest is with the car in is gear - push car back / forward until the belts marks coincide with the notches in the pulleys, it may take several turns of engine to get the marks in line,
carefully take the car out of gear,
double-check the marks,

If you're doing it this way then it would be "easier" to jack one of the front wheels off the ground, remove the spark plugs from the engine, and with the car in gear, rotate the wheel to align the timing marks to the engine block Take out of gear once alligned

 

[fingers99]

It's an 8v, so easy peasy. Get the Haynes and you can't go wrong.

 

[blu73]

:yeahthat:

 

[tinytim]

The water pump on the 8v is a rugged unit and unless it is making a noise or leaking or not working in some way best to leave it alone and replace at next cambelt change; the 8v engine is not damaged by cambelt failure.

 

[Ricon]

Sorry, didn't mention in the OP that the water pump is leaking, noticed the other day after changing my radiator that water was dripping off the bottom of the sump, and when I revved the engine using the spring near the carb' I noticed the more I revved, the more the water flew out, so guessing going back to idiot v's weather, that's my problem...

Would be happy to use a rad weld compound if any could be recommended but never used one and all I've heard is bad things.

 

[tinytim]

The pump needs replacing ASAP; this engine does not like being short of water HG failure common; I have used radweld successfully on other engines but would avoid in this engine. Replacing the water pump is not difficult; have always found removing the cambelt cover the worst part; I have never changed the pump without doing the cambelt but as you will not need to remove the alternator drive belt or crank pulley should be fairly straightforward; make sure you check the timing afterwards; guides/articles ++ on this forum.

 

[fingers99]

If the leak is from the water pump, rad weld won't seal it anyway.