Hi Guys
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Just in case it makes any difference to the analysis---
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“5) The relays "buzz" when you attempt to crank it (but swapping them around makes no difference).”* Only the red relay in T09 does the buzzy, clicky thing, and only when the CVPS message and symbol are showing and when the key is at the “ignition on” position – when I turn the key to crank position I think it goes quiet, but I would need to double check on that. There’s no buzzy clicky when the “main beams on” reset thing has worked its magic and the key is sitting at “ignition on”, at which point the dash lights up as it should and the narrative runs through the normal “Checking” routine. Its only when I then try to start the engine, so to speak, that it reverts to the CVPS narrative and padlock symbol.
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“6) The "key" symbol comes on when you crank it... but you can clear it by flashing main beam”.** Yes, the key symbol and the CVPS narrative shows when I turn the key to cranking position (and afterwards and they continue to show until the “main beams on” reset is done). The reset is achieved by switching on the headlamps main beam for a short time – but just “flashing” the headlights doesn’t seem to achieve the reset.
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Also, don’t know if it is relevant, but when I got this car, the remote lock/unlock function didn’t work (and still doesn’t).
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“Out of curiosity, when you crank it with the CVPS/key symbol flashing... do you get fuel being delivered at the fuel rail? If there's nothing coming out, then that would "prove" the immobilisor is doing something”.* Can’t remember, will need to check on that one.
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Mytheroo – for the sake of completeness, any ideas how I could go about checking the relays in situ – pulling them away from the port enough to squeeze in the multimeter pointers? Or is that just bonkers?*
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Ralf S. – think you are right in that, whatever the problem with this is, it’s something that looks like it’s beyond me, even with the good guidance I’m getting on here, and I would need to get someone else to have a look at it, altho I will keep on at things and maybe someone on here will be able to come up with something. Problem is, towing to a Fiat dealer, or anywhere else, isn’t really an option (it’s 12 miles to the nearest dealer and that road would be a tricky tow at the end of a wire), so an independent mobile guy would need to be the way to go. I might sound out the ballpark cost for that. But it’s another expense to add to what was meant to be (on the back of my long term ownership of another same model Stilo, which has proved to be wonderfully reliable over the last 14 years and even now – shouldn’t tempt fate, I know)* a low cost, fairly straightforward wee bit of an indulgence/hobby. I got her on the basis that she needed a clutch (and some other stuff which I could have done on an as and when really required basis) – which was duly done, but turns out it was a gearbox etc,etc, per the earlier parts of this thread, with all the associated cost/time/work aspects, you get the picture. Not sure if I’ve got the stomach for spending more money on her, with no definite guarantee of a 100% solution (not to mention that I’ve still to get her back on the ground and see if the drive issues mentioned before in this thread turn out ok. And the MOT has now expired……). There’s also the temptation that I could use her as a spares car for my other Stilo. But she is a nice wee thing, and very pleasant to drive (altho’ I have realised that she has the 90hp engine, rather than the 95hp which my other 1.4 Stilo has, and is nowhere near as nippy, but in compensation has a more gently nature….) , only 73K miles, and Stilos are becoming a pretty unusual sight on the roads these days (round my way at least), so there’s that side of things as well. Another one to mull over.
Cheers