Technical Urgent help regarding thread for crank pulley 1.6

[ryn079]

Hi guys,

i need to remove the crank pulley to change the cambelt of my brava 1.6.

Is it a right hand or left hand thread, ie anticlockwise to unfasten?

Please help as car is in garage and i cannot proceed.

Thanks

 

[Adrian Bravo]

Hi
Well this is strange on the Haynes manual and the Fiat workshop manual I can only find information on the crankshaft auxilary pully for the 1.6.

On the 1.6 the crankshaft auxilary pully is held on with a bolt and is tightened to 220Nm. The direction is not mentioned so I can only assume it is right handed.

I can not find anyinformation about the crankshaft sproket sorry.
Hopefully someone else knows, or someone in the Multipla, Marea or Stilo section's may know.

 

[ryn079]

Thanks Adrian. I managed to change cambelt and all belts. Crank pulley nut is with normal thread!

 

[steve1811uk]

I'm about to tackle the same job and looking for some advice. Will the crankshaft pulley slide off the shaft when the nut is removed or will I need a puller? Thanks in advance. Steve.

 

[The Sultan]

I'm about to tackle the same job and looking for some advice. Will the crankshaft pulley slide off the shaft when the nut is removed or will I need a puller? Thanks in advance. Steve.

it will just tap off

 

[steve1811uk]

Thanks for that advice. Actually I did the job on Saturday and you were right, the crankshaft pulley virtually fell off, no pulling required. For anyone else doing the timing belt job, I followed the advice in the Haynes manual and found it spot on. I had to lock the flywheel with a small tool made by LASER (Laser No. 3203 from ebay). Had to find an M6 bolt + washers to fix that in position. Trying to remove that pulley nut with the car in 5th gear was impossible, too much movement. With the tool the nut was tight but not impossibly so. I used a 36mm 6-point socket which was quite short, approx 2 inches long, not the long impact type and a breaker bar from inside the engine bay from above. There was just enough clearance to get the socket and bar in. I stood to the right of the drivers side wing facing forward and took up the strain on the bar pulling towards me. The bar seemed to flex a bit, I held it there for just a moment and then gave the bar a bit of a sharp yank and the nut came loose! Success. The rest of the job was pretty straight forward, align the engine to TDC and mark a straight line across the two cam pullies. In addition to the Haynes method I used some Tipex marks on the belt and cam/crank pullies before undoing the tensioner and then transferred the tipex marks to the new belt before re-fitting. The exhaust cam was noted to move anticlockwise by a couple of teeth when the belt tension was released. A socket was used on the centre bolt to turn it when the new belt was put on. The car had done only 50k in 10 years and both the tensioner and fixed guide pullies seemed in good condition although I did replace them both. The cam belt itself didn't look in as good condition, the rubber looked aged and slightly brittle when flexed. Hope this helps someone else in future. Steve.

 

[Adrian Bravo]

Thank you for the detailed update steve. Top post