Regarding suspension then things can be done that I'm sure your Portugal authorities will be happy with.
On my Uno SX which I used to do Sprinting and Track work in I replaced the suspension with a SACHS TUV approved upgrade kit for the Uno Turbo. This was just about perfect in all departments. (lower but not too low, stiffer, more damping, less pitch and roll etc.)
Sachs Sporting Suspension Set Nr.84 1500 118 029 (Kit 1217)
I also put 185/60 R13 80H or 185/55R13 tyres on. These are the maximum with tyres you can put on an Uno without using spacers or different offset wheels. I also replaced the steel wheels with FIAT O.Z. Alloy wheels - Type 01B7 B, 5J * 13 H2 ET45 (but any make alloy with same dimensions/offset will be OK.
NOTE! With the tyre width then it is not the body clearance that can be an issue but the gap between the rear wall of the tyre and rear suspension trailing arm and allowing for a little deflection under heavy cornering. From clearance to strut is a little better but should be checked.
With this setup and only 48BHP at the flywheel I could lap Goodwood Race Circuit in 1 min 51 seconds (78 mph average). For those that know Goodwood then with such little power and low top speed then clearly the handling and grip of the setup was brilliant for a road going non race optimised car with stock engine. To the engine I only ever did car jet changes, timing changes, air filter and an ANSA Sport Exhaust.
With regards to engine tuning (timing, fueling, air and exhaust) then on the 1301cc there is not much to be gained.
My notes from a rolling road test session are:
o Fiat Book figures - 65BHP (48 BHP at wheels)
o Initially obtained about 42BHP at the wheels with K&N air filter,
opened out air filter lid and ANSA Middle & Rear Boxes
Timing was set to about 8 degrees.
o Timing set to approx 12 degrees and 1st choke Idle Jet increased
from 50 to 55.
o Now get 49.5 BHP at wheels, pulling well through the range. Good
consistent 48 BHP.
o With original air box lid & disconnected air hose we loose about
2 BHP.
o Suffers from from heat drop off. First run good for nearly 50BHP
but later runs loose a little. Suggested using NKG colder running
plugs, something like No.5s (usually 6s). Can make a significant
difference.
Clearly on the 1301cc engine to gain better power then more radical work is required. 4-2-1 manifold, bigger carbs, head flow and better cam shaft.
Lastly you can see that the suspension changes really made a difference. That said with the standard Uno you don't get the extra benefit of a front anti-roll bar like on the Uno Turbo. You can certainly retro fit this. Even then the Uno is a narrow track and tall motor so shedding top tide weight will really help. You replace all the glass EXCEPT the windscreen with Perspex and still road legal (certainly in the UK). Doing this constitutes a major weight reduction (less for the engine to haul around) and lowers the centre of gravity even more.
Brakes:
The Uno brakes work very well. No real need to go vented and you can keep the drums on the rear. HOWEVER cooling is very important. You need to get rid of the enclosed steel wheels and get some *really open* spoked allow wheels. I experimented with additional ducting but never needed it despite having extensive minutes hard track driving in a session. On one day I did 120 laps of Goodwood (288 miles / 461km).
The one brake change I did do was to fit stainless braded PTFE cored flexible brake pipes. These increased pedal feel and reduced a little the pedal travel under extreme braking. Pads and disc I left as standard. I did try TAR.OX discs and pads but they were by comparison useless and expensive. The groves made everything shake badly under heavy braking, the discs wore unevenly (no grooves left on inside surface) and the pads were just too hard to give good grip. Once the disc wear became uneven then they were lethal when trying to do controlled power braking from over 90 mph and at the same time trying to prep for a corner. You want stable balanced braking before cornering and the TAR.OX never gave that once wear set in.
Standards discs and pads, even softer pads and good air flow is all you need.
If I think of anything then I'll post it.
Good luck with your project
