Technical Uno Mk2 - lowering help

[UnoBianco93]

I'm looking for some advice on lowering my 93' Uno Mk2 1.0 i.e. Typically, there are no off-the-shelf coilovers and I'm hesitant to spend money on 'close but not quite' coilovers and then a fabricator to frankenstein a solution. Has anyone had any luck with anything or is my best bet lowering springs (which seem to be much more readily available) and some up-rated shocks?

Any help people can offer would be amazing!

 

[jackwhoo]

Coilovers would be a complete disaster for car of that age in standard condition.
If you want to lower CORRECT LOWERING SPRINGS ONLY .
Keep standard parts removed it is highly likely some future owner would want to go back to standard. Standard with older cars is where interest/money is.

 

[UnoBianco93]

Coilovers would be a complete disaster for car of that age in standard condition.
If you want to lower CORRECT LOWERING SPRINGS ONLY .
Keep standard parts removed it is highly likely some future owner would want to go back to standard. Standard with older cars is where interest/money is.

100% I'd hold on to everything (also just in case it becomes unbearable to drive). I've got some Uno turbo wheels arriving any day but I'm going to keep hold of the original wheels with the plastic clip-ons as they're quite rare. As a learning opportunity, why would coilovers not work?
Would something like this be what I'm looking for?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292239704952?_trksid=p4375194.c102726.m162918

 

[bugsymike]

I agree with Jack, as a youngster I lowered some Fords I drove by changing the springs, wide steel wheels, bigger engine and negative camber on front suspension, so it would corner and go well also but I have seen many examples of poor "coil over " bodge jobs that the owners had to spend lots of money putting back to original due to rapid wear of the conversion kit.
Are you after looks or handling?
Given the state of the roads these days and the speed bumps, if you are going for looks it is going to be horrible to drive, so if you just want to leave it in your garage and just stroke it as you pass that's fine.
I have been in a few seriously lowered cars and anything more than a short drive to the shops, soon stops it being a pleasure to drive. Many years ago I raced Karts and they have no suspension at all, the ride was like that!
Personally I would prefer to have a vehicle that I could use, a good set of wheels and tyres will look good and improve handling.
Have you ever followed a seriously lowered car, racing up to each speed bump, braking hard and then crawling over it with chassis and any front spoiler dragging the floor at the same time any bog standard van is going over the same speed bumps without slowing down.
That's my grump for the day, in the end it is your car to do what you want with it, check out a few car mags with the sort of conversion you are thinking about and make your own mind up.

 

[Steve gt]

I'm looking for some advice on lowering my 93' Uno Mk2 1.0 i.e. Typically, there are no off-the-shelf coilovers and I'm hesitant to spend money on 'close but not quite' coilovers and then a fabricator to frankenstein a solution. Has anyone had any luck with anything or is my best bet lowering springs (which seem to be much more readily available) and some up-rated shocks?

Any help people can offer would be amazing!

Hi mate, you’ve got a very nice looking rare uno There. I would leave it standard as the guys above say , it would get plenty of attention at an Italian show as it is My punto had lowered springs etc when I purchased it many years ago and although looked good at the time but was terrible to drive any distance

 

[s130]

I lowered and stiffened my Uno SX 1300, 1988.

I did this for track work / sprinting and with a tyre upgrade was extremely successful. Some other cars on various tracks would not get near me, or at least attempt to out bend me.

This is what I did:

Fitted Sachs Sporting Suspension Set Nr.84 1500 118 029 (Kit 1217)
Really great suspension now - handles exceptionally well.

Fitted 185/55R13 Tyres. These are the largest you can fit without the rear tyres deflecting under load where their inside wall would rub against the rear trailing arm suspension.

With this setup and stock engine with only 68bhp at the fly wheel and 48bhp at the wheels I could lap Goodwood Race Circuit (2.4 miles) just shy of 80mph lap time.

In addition (Mithril Racing name redacted) said in writing:

"I always enjoyed it when you and Krys came to our track days, for several reasons. First of all as I’m sure you can guess I loved seeing that Fiat Abarth; I also loved seeing it being driven neatly, precisely and swiftly around lap after lap after lap. I also got a lot of pleasure from watching you hounding my friends in their Porsches and BMWs in that ridiculously competent (when driven ridiculously competently ) FIAT Uno.

So the Abarth was my wife. The Uno was me.

I want to point out that yes modest suspension upgrades like I did, with tyres to my Uno, are just a humble starting point. I took me several years of experience to get to where my Uno "was hounding my friends in their Porsches and BMWs".

A similar point is that look at F1/F2/F3 and other drivers. They started in underpowered Go Carts. They learnt and progress step by step, error by error, etc. The same goes for your modest road car if you venture out onto unrestricted tarmac. Start slow even if you have most powerful and best handling car in the world.

I have had so many track sessions ruined by pricks who can not control their right foot and think ahead. They get plucked out of the "kitty litter" or armco barriers, hopefully alive and meanwhile the rest of us are grounded till the car(s) and debris are cleared. Total waste of money and time for those wanting to genuinely start out, go slow, learn, steadily improve, build confidence etc.

Back to my Uno. I will admit that at it's / my peak this was safe white knuckled driving built over many years. Me/we slaughtered many in their x100 bhp wagons. But the real point I'm trying to deliver is that any car on stock can be learn-ed to be safely and competently driven. You don't need fancy upgrades. You just need to learn, improve and then upgrade.

Before I'm shot down in flames I will also admit that many cars lack that feeling and confidence feedback that above average drivers want. No problem or criticism from me. SIMPLE upgrades can deliver what you are looking for without any motor sport expectations.

 

[jackwhoo]

100% I'd hold on to everything (also just in case it becomes unbearable to drive). I've got some Uno turbo wheels arriving any day but I'm going to keep hold of the original wheels with the plastic clip-ons as they're quite rare. As a learning opportunity, why would coilovers not work?
Would something like this be what I'm looking for?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292239704952?_trksid=p4375194.c102726.m162918

Because spring rates and damper rates should be match accurately to the running weight of the vehicle and each other.

Lots of people are sucked into ooooo wow coilovers wow must be good/better...... loads of badly made coilovers around. Apart from paying hard earned money for crap parts worse ride you then have to tell insurance and pay even more

 

[UnoBianco93]

Hi mate, you’ve got a very nice looking rare uno There. I would leave it standard as the guys above say , it would get plenty of attention at an Italian show as it is My punto had lowered springs etc when I purchased it many years ago and although looked good at the time but was terrible to drive any distance

Thank you for the compliment! I'm keen that any upgrades I get can be reversible just in case it becomes a nightmare to drive. The Uno Turbo wheels I have coming for it are the only mod that I'll keep permanently. That said I bought it as a project and I still want it to be fairly practical so it's only going to be lowered (plus some strut braces), not slammed.

 

[UnoBianco93]

I agree with Jack, as a youngster I lowered some Fords I drove by changing the springs, wide steel wheels, bigger engine and negative camber on front suspension, so it would corner and go well also but I have seen many examples of poor "coil over " bodge jobs that the owners had to spend lots of money putting back to original due to rapid wear of the conversion kit.
Are you after looks or handling?
Given the state of the roads these days and the speed bumps, if you are going for looks it is going to be horrible to drive, so if you just want to leave it in your garage and just stroke it as you pass that's fine.
I have been in a few seriously lowered cars and anything more than a short drive to the shops, soon stops it being a pleasure to drive. Many years ago I raced Karts and they have no suspension at all, the ride was like that!
Personally I would prefer to have a vehicle that I could use, a good set of wheels and tyres will look good and improve handling.
Have you ever followed a seriously lowered car, racing up to each speed bump, braking hard and then crawling over it with chassis and any front spoiler dragging the floor at the same time any bog standard van is going over the same speed bumps without slowing down.
That's my grump for the day, in the end it is your car to do what you want with it, check out a few car mags with the sort of conversion you are thinking about and make your own mind up.

The Uno Turbo wheels will definitely be an improvement, better looking, still 13'' but a slightly deeper tyre should make a difference. With the lowering it will only be lowered, not slammed as I can't be doing with all that faff. I can get lowering springs and shocks and have change from £250.00. I also bought it as a second car so won't be doing overly long trips. Pootle about town and the odd car show here and there.

 

[s130]

If you do venture out onto a track then yes at least a front strut brace is a good idea. I had one on my Uno. You may not notice any handling differences to begin with until one gets to the safe ragged white knuckle edge of your and your cars ability. What is important about a front strut brace is that it takes a load of cornering and wing / turret forces and distributes them to the other side. This is very good for the chassis by reducing flexing and associated fatigue.