Technical turbo actuator ask

Currently reading:
Technical turbo actuator ask

Should the actuator move by hand or only under vacum when running?...
You will usually be able to move it in one direction with engine off, usually I think out from the actuator, you may see some marks, it will not flop around, as you are moving against the return spring in the actuator I believe. If engine running just try pulling the vacuum pipe off to see if it is doing anything visually.
By the way which model, age etc?
 
You can move it with a hand or pair of grips depending on access and your strength. As said the waste gate it’s self will just flop about, if it wasn’t connected to the actuator, so you are only working against that.
 
Thanks for the reply..its a 2007,2.3 diesel..
In that case I think my information is correct, older turbos used excess boost pressure to open the waste gate, but newer ECU controlled ones use a electronic vacuum valve to hold the waste gate shut firmer to give good boost and then when the ECU and sensors dictate, the vacuum is shut off and the waste gate opens losing boost pressure to prevent an "overboost" situation.
Unless of course someone want's to correct me;)
 
Thanks for both replies...Its NOT my vehicle,but a neighbours/friends..
He is able to drive at speeds up to way past the 70 mph speed limit..not saying that's a good thing but I would not have expected such speeds without turbo boost. There's no fault codes(turbo system related) either.
The 'throttle valve' was changed along with the EGR solenoid valve last weekend following code reads. Both items are made by Magneti Marelli..The codes have not returned BUT the EGR code(cant recall it atm) remains so that's being changed this Saturday..It's got130k on the clock with zero maintenenace until I started working on it..
 
Thanks for both replies...Its NOT my vehicle,but a neighbours/friends..
He is able to drive at speeds up to way past the 70 mph speed limit..not saying that's a good thing but I would not have expected such speeds without turbo boost. There's no fault codes(turbo system related) either.
The 'throttle valve' was changed along with the EGR solenoid valve last weekend following code reads. Both items are made by Magneti Marelli..The codes have not returned BUT the EGR code(cant recall it atm) remains so that's being changed this Saturday..It's got130k on the clock with zero maintenenace until I started working on it..
I am old school and preferred the 2.8 Sofim SOHC engines, easier to work on though less economical.:)
 
The 2.3 turbo wastegate is not controlled by anything other than pressure produced by it’s self. So any turbo issues won’t show any warning lights. There is no electrical, or electronic parts to a X250 2.3 turbo.
The EGR system is also poor on this version. If the EGR doesn’t, open, or is stuck open the vehicle doesn’t know. The vehicle just knows if the throttle body is being given power, and if the vac solenoid is being given power. So I would say if you have an EGR warning it will be a fault with the vac solenoid. The van is dumb to what is actually happening. Hence my recent issues with a stuck open EGR, that then knackered my turbo, with no warning lights at all.
 
The engine is an Iveco one..its plated up.
I have seen that in the past, though it is probably some of it marked Iveco not all, the block and head is basically the same but being front wheel drive on the Ducato the crank carrier bottom half is different and the oil pickup and sump to allow for an engine slanted over, whereas the Iveco is up right and obviously rear wheel drive.
I put a 2.8 Ducato Sofim engine, because the price was right and it was slightily more powerful to start with in a boat and then had to alter things for it to sit at an angle.
Emission, EGR stuff etc. is probably different depending on which Country it is meant to end up in.
When I wanted genuine engine rebuild stuff, if I took the 100 suffix off the Iveco Ford part number I could then buy the same part cheaper from the Fiat Dealer. This was several years ago so may have been "corrected" by now ;).
Citroen and some Peugeots and Renaults Masters also the Renault Mascott was rear wheel drive
 
Last edited:
Would it be worthwhile fitting a functioning actuator ?...
If the owner reckons it goes well? Maybe not much benefit, is it possible to pull the hose off after the turbo and rev engine to feel boost pressure as a rough guide?
Or if possible try with vacuum pipe off actuator.
 
On an 07 reg 2.3 there are two things that EGR system operates. The vac solenoid and the throttle body. If the TB fails it has its own code and gives you restricted performance. If the vac solenoid fails, or is disconnected then this brings on the EGR warning, and needs to be cleared. It won’t clear it’s self.
 
On an 07 reg 2.3 there are two things that EGR system operates. The vac solenoid and the throttle body. If the TB fails it has its own code and gives you restricted performance. If the vac solenoid fails, or is disconnected then this brings on the EGR warning, and needs to be cleared. It won’t clear it’s self.
Has any one been able to read any error codes using multiscan etc. As one thing I was never able to do on Ivecos was read codes as dealer tool generally required in those days which was a pain.
 
On an 07 reg 2.3 there are two things that EGR system operates. The vac solenoid and the throttle body. If the TB fails it has its own code and gives you restricted performance. If the vac solenoid fails, or is disconnected then this brings on the EGR warning, and needs to be cleared. It won’t clear it’s sel

On an 07 reg 2.3 there are two things that EGR system operates. The vac solenoid and the throttle body. If the TB fails it has its own code and gives you restricted performance. If the vac solenoid fails, or is disconnected then this brings on the EGR warning, and needs to be cleared. It won’t clear it’s self.
The vac solenoid and throttle body were changed for new last weekend..the EGR valve itself was changed Saturday..
 
I have used a generic/cheap obd reader and its been scanned with a Snap on diagnostic kit..The codes were why the part's have been changed. Unfortunately the car went into limp mode again after leaving/passing the MOT garage.
I have advised that its taken to our local Fiat shop for a scan with oem diagnostic kit...
He's removed the second vacum line from the vacum solinoid..its running poor at low speeds but ok once running faster..
 
Was the light cleared when new bits fitted?

A failed EGR, won’t make the engine go into limp mode. A failed TB, or it’s wires will, but that wail give different code to egr.

I assume you fitted new section of loom / connectors with the TB? Did you check the condition inside the old, original loom connector, as these are known to corrode due to water from scuttle running onto it. Some have had to cut plug off and direct solder to new loom supplied with TB.

Have you tried driving it with the vac solenoid wiring connector disconnected?
 
Back
Top