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Technical turbo actuator ask

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Technical turbo actuator ask

just spoke to the owner..what will disconnecting the vac solenoid prove?..he's already disconnected one of the vac lines(on advice from here)..it runs better without it being connected..
 
nikrox said:
just spoke to the owner..what will disconnecting the vac solenoid prove?..he's already disconnected one of the vac lines(on advice from here)..it runs better without it being connected..
Click to expand...
When you just disconnect the vacuum pipe the vehicle ecu doesn’t know this as it not got a sensor on it. So will still alter other things, such as closing the throttle body when it THINKS the EGR is open. By physically disconnecting the wires from the vac solenoid it stops the van altering ANY thing associated with the EGR system.

For instance, after you Rev your engine, the ecu operates the vac solenoid, and also closes the throttle body. It will do this if pipes are connected or not. This will not happen with the vac solenoid disconnected.
 
nikrox said:
Thank you..so if its electronically disconnected will the system not recognise this?..confused?...
Click to expand...
Yes the system will recognise that the solenoid is not connected, and will bring on warning dash light. But it will not operate anything to do with system.
 
If you just unpipe the egr at certain times the throttle body will close to 95%, and the engine will almost stall as it can’t get the air into the intake system. It thinks it can gain this air from the open EGR valve. But you’ve stopped it opening. So now it’s only got 5% air intake.
 
im sorry but i just dont understand what unplugging the vac solenoid will do/prove..Im tired n feeling old..be kind..
 
It will prove if you have an egr fault or not. Things should not have got better by disconnecting the pipe if it was all working Ok.
 
Thanks...there wasnt any codes immediately after the EGR valve was replaced on Saturday..it took a few miles for the EML/fault and rough running appeared..Appreciate your patience and help.
 
A new Bosch MAP is £27...going to recommend it and a carbon/engine clean process..after the loom connections been checked n cleaned.
 
MAF is just after the air filter, so far right of engine bay, above gear box.
MAP is a joy to get to, and hope it doesn’t snap off. 🙄🙄

2BD7F244-3012-42AB-8D8A-08382ED95921.jpeg
 
joy....when we changed the throttle valve ,which was held in by 3 bolts and a snapped off bolt/stud, the bolt for the MAP sensor was was also sheared and had no head..owner didn't want to sort..kinda wish I'd insisted now.
I will search for pictures of the MAF location and price one up...cant hurt none.
 
Thanks guys. I have the 2.0 but was hoping there would be some similarity in positions - the MAF/position looks identical for example.

I can see a MAP listed as available for the 2.0, the part looks identical to the one for a 2.3 and the elearning disc refers to one. I can't for the life of me find it however.

Apologies to nikrox for the thread hijack - however, and this may be helpful to you: My van is suffering from very similar problems and I've found the best solution so far is to disconnect the outlet vacuum pipes from the EGR and TB solenoids and cap off the outlet pipes at the solenoid (to stop vacuum leaks). My EGR works (ie, opens and closes) and the TB seems fine as well. I can't think why this would be but it's a cheap and easy "fix" and seems to achieve the same as using a blanking plate and EGR system delete software
 
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